The Ford Barn

funrunr · 01-12-2015, 06:22 AM

How about installing a couple drawer handles and sliding a cheater bar or long board for leverage. Remove it when not in use so it don't get in the way. Cheap and simple yet effective.

BILL WZOREK · 01-12-2015, 06:28 AM

We went with the piston & control valve we have.
Mounted the piston & control valve yesterday.
The cover goes up a littler faster then I like & closes at a nice speed.
But once we go through a up & down cycle it gets air bound & we have to remove the air feed line and move the control lever back & forth and the air exhausts through it intake port.
I think some thing must be stuck in the control valve so the air does not exit the return ports as it should.

We will take it apart and see what we find.
New control valve are not a lot of $$$ but I don't want to be part of the throw away
generation.

When we get it working correct I will post pictures if anyone wants.

THANKS FOR ALL THE IDEAS & INPUT

George/Maine · 01-12-2015, 07:30 AM

Do you have 5 port valve. The 2 back hole are for the pressure to exhaust by the movement in a different direction. If they are hooked together will not work right.

Fordestes · 01-12-2015, 07:49 AM

are you using air over hydraulic? or straight air?

BILL WZOREK · 01-12-2015, 09:22 AM

George:

5 Port valve , Exhaust ports not closed / something just not working correct ~~

Fordester: Straight Air ~~

BILL WZOREK · 01-12-2015, 10:38 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cecil/WV

A possible word of caution. Most wash tanks have a lead connector to allow the lid to close in case of fire. Don't jinx your insurance coverage.

There is no need for a safty fuse link on the cover, This is a enclosed tank pressure washer, no harsh cleaning fluids involved.
It has a 35 gal water tank that you add cleaning soap ( powder ) to it heats up to desired temp pumps through out about 14 spray jets with the parts are turning on a rotating basket.
The water drains back into the tank where there is a vertical rotating aluminum dish that the oil sticks to and is wiped off of and drains into a bucket , leaving the water to start the process all over again.
Works great !!!!

George/Maine · 01-12-2015, 12:52 PM

If you have a valve with a neutral position should be able to stop half way and hold pressure.

Fordestes · 01-12-2015, 02:11 PM

Have you considered using a couple of ball valves from the hardware store?
use one to apply while the other is shut off then when you want to exhaust the pressure shut off supply and open the other to atmosphere , put a small fitting in the release (exhaust) side to slow down the rate of the lid closing to avoid the lid from crashing closed. cheaper than a multiport control valve, we used a similar principle on an old single post service station lift only it had a center pin and a rocker style control lever, we pushed the lever one way for lifting pressure and moved the lever opposite to push the exhaust valve to let air out to lower. mount a couple of your lever action shocks on the lid to help cushion the closure.
good luck!
Fordestes,

01-12-2015, 06:22 AM	#41
funrunr Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Belleville,MI Posts: 1,478	Re: Shop wireing Question How about installing a couple drawer handles and sliding a cheater bar or long board for leverage. Remove it when not in use so it don't get in the way. Cheap and simple yet effective. __________________ Thank God this is only a hobby!

01-12-2015, 06:28 AM	#42
BILL WZOREK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florence Ma. Posts: 2,404	Re: Shop wireing Question We went with the piston & control valve we have. Mounted the piston & control valve yesterday. The cover goes up a littler faster then I like & closes at a nice speed. But once we go through a up & down cycle it gets air bound & we have to remove the air feed line and move the control lever back & forth and the air exhausts through it intake port. I think some thing must be stuck in the control valve so the air does not exit the return ports as it should. We will take it apart and see what we find. New control valve are not a lot of $$$ but I don't want to be part of the throw away generation. When we get it working correct I will post pictures if anyone wants. THANKS FOR ALL THE IDEAS & INPUT

01-12-2015, 07:30 AM	#43
George/Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mid coast Maine Posts: 1,878	Re: Shop wireing Question Do you have 5 port valve. The 2 back hole are for the pressure to exhaust by the movement in a different direction. If they are hooked together will not work right.

01-12-2015, 07:49 AM	#44
Fordestes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 932	Re: Shop wireing Question are you using air over hydraulic? or straight air?

01-12-2015, 09:22 AM	#45
BILL WZOREK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florence Ma. Posts: 2,404	Re: Shop wireing Question George: 5 Port valve , Exhaust ports not closed / something just not working correct ~~ Fordester: Straight Air ~~

01-12-2015, 12:52 PM	#47
George/Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mid coast Maine Posts: 1,878	Re: Shop wireing Question If you have a valve with a neutral position should be able to stop half way and hold pressure.

01-12-2015, 02:11 PM	#48
Fordestes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 932	Re: Shop wireing Question Have you considered using a couple of ball valves from the hardware store? use one to apply while the other is shut off then when you want to exhaust the pressure shut off supply and open the other to atmosphere , put a small fitting in the release (exhaust) side to slow down the rate of the lid closing to avoid the lid from crashing closed. cheaper than a multiport control valve, we used a similar principle on an old single post service station lift only it had a center pin and a rocker style control lever, we pushed the lever one way for lifting pressure and moved the lever opposite to push the exhaust valve to let air out to lower. mount a couple of your lever action shocks on the lid to help cushion the closure. good luck! Fordestes,