The Ford Barn

old31 · 03-09-2017, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That's what I thought. I often try to get by on the cheap, but there are times (like this one) where it will most likely be a big mistake and cost more in the end. Might as well pull the engine and give it new babbit, so you'll have a good engine.

You can see that I am new to this.

Instead of pulling the engine can't I just send out all 3 mains and have new babbitts installed?

George Miller · 03-09-2017, 10:41 AM

It should be .001 per inch of dia. of crank 1.625 or 1=5/8 Min would be .0016 half of what you have. anyway it will take your crank out with the spot with no babbitt.

katy · 03-09-2017, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Instead of pulling the engine cant' I just sent out all 3 mains and have new babbitts installed?

That's only part of it, there's the top of the main bearings babbits in the block and also the connecting rods babbits..

40 Deluxe · 03-09-2017, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old31

The crank liked pretty good.

Is there any way to doctor up this bearing instead of a new one?

Well, there's always the shoe leather trick of folklore!

P.S. Has anyone here actually done this? (Not just heard from the usual friend of a friend's great uncle's third cousin twice removed doing it!)
Seems it would require some very thin leather!

J Franklin · 03-09-2017, 02:58 PM

Bacon rind or shoe leather will get you to the next migrant camp if you baby it along.

old31 · 03-09-2017, 03:21 PM

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I really, really, really ,don't want to pull the engine. I have read about inserts vs babbitts and I am not sure about either one.

Could inserts be installed without pulling the engine?

J Franklin · 03-09-2017, 04:00 PM

Time to pull and overhaul the engine

JDupuis · 03-09-2017, 05:00 PM

Old31, babbit or inserts; either way the motor has to come out to do the job. Sorry. Jeff

old31 · 03-09-2017, 05:24 PM

Oh boy, you guys are full of great news.

JDupuis · 03-09-2017, 05:36 PM

Where do you live? Pulling an engine is more fun with friends helping. I've done 2 just this week. Jeff

old31 · 03-09-2017, 06:31 PM

Jeff, I bet you are correct on that. I have a buddy that will help me out.

katy · 03-10-2017, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Pulling an engine is more fun with friends helping

It's still work, I fail to see the fun part.

old31 · 03-10-2017, 12:15 PM

So, what is the easy, best way to pull the engine. What tips do I need to know from you guys that have done it before?

I have a lift and will soon be picking up a HF cherry picker.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-10-2017, 12:51 PM

Drain the coolant
Remove the radiator rods, hood, and radiator
Remove the distributor and hook it to the firewall
Remove the front floorboards
Remove the throttle cross shaft and linkage, be sure to not loose the shims
Remove the wires, dipstick and starter
Support the tranny with a 2 x 4 and ratchet strap
Remove the bellhousing bolts and rear motor mount bolts
Remove the two bolts from the front motor mount
Install lifting rings, or use a nylon strap around the intake and water inlet

I may have forgotten something, but it should be obvious and now ready to lift out.

old31 · 03-11-2017, 04:07 PM

OK, the engine is pulled. It wasn't too painful, but I wish I was 40 years younger!

Marvin/TN · 03-11-2017, 04:39 PM

but I wish I was 40 years younger!

I think that wish would be for a lot of us.

old31 · 03-11-2017, 07:03 PM

What are your thoughts on the photos.

1: What would cause a couple of pressure plate springs to rub against one of the flywheel bolts?

2: The cracks in the flywheel. Does that mean the flywheel is toast?

3: What would make one of the pressure plate fingers wear flat, with a groove in it?

JDupuis · 03-11-2017, 09:00 PM

Old31; those are heat cracks on the flywheel. It will need to be turned to see if it is still usable. A machine shop should be able to let you know before investing any money if he thinks it will be ok or not. If you do machine it, the face,and the step, need to be done by equal amounts.
The pressure plate fingers are worn uneven due to not being adjusted properly. Years of wear.
How did the clutch look?
Jeff

Tom Wesenberg · 03-11-2017, 10:17 PM

I would say it's time for a different flywheel, disc, and pressure plate. If the heat cracks were very light, I'd sand it with my electric palm sander, but those cracks look deep and wide.

Save the starter ring.

George Miller · 03-12-2017, 06:59 AM

i agree with tom. It also looks like the clutch was rubbing one of the flywheel bolts. The pilot bearing looks like it was replaced at one time.

03-09-2017, 10:41 AM	#42
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine It should be .001 per inch of dia. of crank 1.625 or 1=5/8 Min would be .0016 half of what you have. anyway it will take your crank out with the spot with no babbitt. Last edited by George Miller; 03-09-2017 at 10:50 AM.

03-09-2017, 02:58 PM	#45
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 6,001	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Bacon rind or shoe leather will get you to the next migrant camp if you baby it along.

03-09-2017, 03:21 PM	#46
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,124	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I really, really, really ,don't want to pull the engine. I have read about inserts vs babbitts and I am not sure about either one. Could inserts be installed without pulling the engine?

03-09-2017, 04:00 PM	#47
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 6,001	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Time to pull and overhaul the engine

03-09-2017, 05:00 PM	#48
JDupuis Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Maryhill Ont Canada Posts: 834	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Old31, babbit or inserts; either way the motor has to come out to do the job. Sorry. Jeff

03-09-2017, 05:24 PM	#49
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,124	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Oh boy, you guys are full of great news.

03-09-2017, 05:36 PM	#50
JDupuis Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Maryhill Ont Canada Posts: 834	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Where do you live? Pulling an engine is more fun with friends helping. I've done 2 just this week. Jeff __________________ Let's let pylons, be pylons!

03-09-2017, 06:31 PM	#51
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,124	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Jeff, I bet you are correct on that. I have a buddy that will help me out.

03-10-2017, 12:15 PM	#53
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,124	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine So, what is the easy, best way to pull the engine. What tips do I need to know from you guys that have done it before? I have a lift and will soon be picking up a HF cherry picker.

03-10-2017, 12:51 PM	#54
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Drain the coolant Remove the radiator rods, hood, and radiator Remove the distributor and hook it to the firewall Remove the front floorboards Remove the throttle cross shaft and linkage, be sure to not loose the shims Remove the wires, dipstick and starter Support the tranny with a 2 x 4 and ratchet strap Remove the bellhousing bolts and rear motor mount bolts Remove the two bolts from the front motor mount Install lifting rings, or use a nylon strap around the intake and water inlet I may have forgotten something, but it should be obvious and now ready to lift out.

03-11-2017, 04:07 PM	#55
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,124	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine OK, the engine is pulled. It wasn't too painful, but I wish I was 40 years younger!

03-11-2017, 04:39 PM	#56
Marvin/TN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chattanooga, TN area Posts: 832	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine but I wish I was 40 years younger! I think that wish would be for a lot of us.

03-11-2017, 09:00 PM	#58
JDupuis Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Maryhill Ont Canada Posts: 834	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine Old31; those are heat cracks on the flywheel. It will need to be turned to see if it is still usable. A machine shop should be able to let you know before investing any money if he thinks it will be ok or not. If you do machine it, the face,and the step, need to be done by equal amounts. The pressure plate fingers are worn uneven due to not being adjusted properly. Years of wear. How did the clutch look? Jeff

03-11-2017, 10:17 PM	#59
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine I would say it's time for a different flywheel, disc, and pressure plate. If the heat cracks were very light, I'd sand it with my electric palm sander, but those cracks look deep and wide. Save the starter ring.

03-12-2017, 06:59 AM	#60
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Rear main questions 29 engine i agree with tom. It also looks like the clutch was rubbing one of the flywheel bolts. The pilot bearing looks like it was replaced at one time.