The Ford Barn

'29wagon · 07-28-2010, 02:36 PM

sway? depends on what you tow it with, I pull with a Ford E350 and my axles were installed a foot back from standard. the idea is to keep the load over the axles. i'l bet there's reasons for both. just keep the speed down, no passing and adjust your brake control accordingly.

Dave in MN · 07-30-2010, 01:05 PM

To summarize, if using the cross strap method and one strap fails, you have a problem. With the straight strap method, three straps must fail before you encounter a significant problem.

Good point above Mr. Kelly!

Once I figured out the best location of my A on my trailer, I made up a matching length set of chains that are used with a pair of heavy nylon straps with "D" hardware sewn to each end. These chains and the "D" ended straps are always used from the rear connection points on the trailer to the rear axle of the "A" in the straight line method. (The nylon straps go around the axle to protect the paint.) With the fixed lengths of the chains and straps, the positioning of the car is always the same on the trailer. The front is then secured with 2 very heavy ratchet straps in the same straight line method. The same position on the trailer every time keeps the trailer's electric brake settings and the handling consistant.
Good Day!
Dave in MN

Model T Monte · 07-30-2010, 08:25 PM

Fred K, After youve loaded it a few times an hauled it a few times it will be second nature to you where it needs to be. BUT, when that happens you need to start double checking yourself as you could get careless and forget an important part of the routine. Yes it was me-- just scared myself being in a hurry! Monte

dean from bozeman · 07-30-2010, 09:42 PM

Timothy Kelly that is an excellent explanation about cross strapping. I had never heard about cross strapping until these posts. However, I have heard about and practice cross chaining. Using this method the trailer's safety chains are crossed below the tailer's tongue. If for some reason the hitch comes undone, as you are driving down the road, the tongue will fall into the crossed chains and not dig into the ground.

Clydes 31 P/U · 07-31-2010, 06:25 AM

Took me awhile to find these pictures I took of this trailer I made. After I loaded the A and made sure it was where it pulled right, I made blocks from 4X6's cut one side at 45 angle and drilled them and trailer for 3/8 bolts now just drop bolts through the holes and run A up to the blocks and strap it down. I use nylon axle straps around the axles where the wishbone mounts to the axle and 3" nylon ratchet straps. Clyde

kenparker · 07-31-2010, 07:29 AM

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I loded my S (31 Coupe on my trailer. Put wifes bathroom scale under the trailer tounge stand then unhiched from the tow truck. Moved Coupe forward until I had 300 lbs showing on the scales. Marked the spot where the front wheels were sitting then rehiched to truck and unloaded the Coupe. I then bolted a piece of 2 x 4 to the trailer floor cvouple inches in front of the front tire mark. Now when I load I can drive on til the front tires touch the 2 x 4 and I know by feel I am in the right spot. I have a 16' open car hauler similiar to Freds.

BTW never load a car with out the trailer attached to the tow truck. Ask me about the ding in the tail gate on my new truck. ouch. Ken

Fred K-OR · 07-31-2010, 11:50 PM

Well, Sunday is "D" day. I have it loaded and am ready to take off in the morning. Wish me well! One way or another I will get there.

Thanks for all the ideas.

dave in australia · 08-01-2010, 02:05 AM

One thing that hasn't been mentioned, unless I missed it, is always secure/tie/hitch/strap the load to the unsuspended parts of the car. The axles are the best points. I've seen cars tied down by the bumpers and other such bits. If you use the suspended parts, the bounce of the car on the trailer will allow the straps/chains to continually be loose then tight. This can allow load binders to release, straps to fray then break and other unwanted similar events.

Fred K-OR · 08-01-2010, 11:46 PM

Fred K-OR · 08-01-2010, 11:48 PM

Fred K-OR · 08-01-2010, 11:51 PM

Fred K-OR · 08-02-2010, 12:01 AM

I don't know if I got the job done or not but I tried to post pictures of the successful tie down I did to my rig and new trailer.

I took it on a road trip of about 250 miles today, everything worked like it should-no sway, rig was balanced on trailer and had a great trip.

So just wanted to bore with you all with some pictures and say thanks again for all the help and ideas

Fred K-OR · 08-02-2010, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

I don't know if I got the job done or not but I tried to post pictures of the successful tie down I did to my rig and new trailer.

I took it on a road trip of about 250 miles today, everything worked like it should-no sway, rig was balanced on trailer and had a great trip.

So just wanted to bore with you all with some pictures and say thanks again for all the help and ideas

Looks like the pictures didn't work. Sorry about that. Guess I will have to practice up on how to load pictures. Anyway, the trip with the loaded trailer was a great trip!

07-28-2010, 02:36 PM	#21
'29wagon Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: H.B. California Posts: 451	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. sway? depends on what you tow it with, I pull with a Ford E350 and my axles were installed a foot back from standard. the idea is to keep the load over the axles. i'l bet there's reasons for both. just keep the speed down, no passing and adjust your brake control accordingly.

07-30-2010, 01:05 PM	#22
Dave in MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jordan, MN Posts: 1,416	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. To summarize, if using the cross strap method and one strap fails, you have a problem. With the straight strap method, three straps must fail before you encounter a significant problem. Good point above Mr. Kelly! Once I figured out the best location of my A on my trailer, I made up a matching length set of chains that are used with a pair of heavy nylon straps with "D" hardware sewn to each end. These chains and the "D" ended straps are always used from the rear connection points on the trailer to the rear axle of the "A" in the straight line method. (The nylon straps go around the axle to protect the paint.) With the fixed lengths of the chains and straps, the positioning of the car is always the same on the trailer. The front is then secured with 2 very heavy ratchet straps in the same straight line method. The same position on the trailer every time keeps the trailer's electric brake settings and the handling consistant. Good Day! Dave in MN

07-30-2010, 08:25 PM	#23
Model T Monte Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Vici,Okla. Posts: 256	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. Fred K, After youve loaded it a few times an hauled it a few times it will be second nature to you where it needs to be. BUT, when that happens you need to start double checking yourself as you could get careless and forget an important part of the routine. Yes it was me-- just scared myself being in a hurry! Monte

07-30-2010, 09:42 PM	#24
dean from bozeman Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bozeman, Montana Posts: 999	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. Timothy Kelly that is an excellent explanation about cross strapping. I had never heard about cross strapping until these posts. However, I have heard about and practice cross chaining. Using this method the trailer's safety chains are crossed below the tailer's tongue. If for some reason the hitch comes undone, as you are driving down the road, the tongue will fall into the crossed chains and not dig into the ground.

07-31-2010, 06:25 AM	#25
Clydes 31 P/U Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: northern Il Posts: 302	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. Took me awhile to find these pictures I took of this trailer I made. After I loaded the A and made sure it was where it pulled right, I made blocks from 4X6's cut one side at 45 angle and drilled them and trailer for 3/8 bolts now just drop bolts through the holes and run A up to the blocks and strap it down. I use nylon axle straps around the axles where the wishbone mounts to the axle and 3" nylon ratchet straps. Clyde Last edited by Clydes 31 P/U; 12-15-2010 at 08:25 PM.

07-31-2010, 07:29 AM	#26
kenparker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Van, Texas Posts: 1,122	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I loded my S (31 Coupe on my trailer. Put wifes bathroom scale under the trailer tounge stand then unhiched from the tow truck. Moved Coupe forward until I had 300 lbs showing on the scales. Marked the spot where the front wheels were sitting then rehiched to truck and unloaded the Coupe. I then bolted a piece of 2 x 4 to the trailer floor cvouple inches in front of the front tire mark. Now when I load I can drive on til the front tires touch the 2 x 4 and I know by feel I am in the right spot. I have a 16' open car hauler similiar to Freds. BTW never load a car with out the trailer attached to the tow truck. Ask me about the ding in the tail gate on my new truck. ouch. Ken

07-31-2010, 11:50 PM	#27
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. Well, Sunday is "D" day. I have it loaded and am ready to take off in the morning. Wish me well! One way or another I will get there. Thanks for all the ideas. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster

08-01-2010, 02:05 AM	#28
dave in australia Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Victoria, Australia Posts: 1,262	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. One thing that hasn't been mentioned, unless I missed it, is always secure/tie/hitch/strap the load to the unsuspended parts of the car. The axles are the best points. I've seen cars tied down by the bumpers and other such bits. If you use the suspended parts, the bounce of the car on the trailer will allow the straps/chains to continually be loose then tight. This can allow load binders to release, straps to fray then break and other unwanted similar events.

08-01-2010, 11:46 PM	#29
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster Last edited by Fred K-OR; 08-01-2010 at 11:55 PM.

08-01-2010, 11:48 PM	#30
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster

08-01-2010, 11:51 PM	#31
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster

08-02-2010, 12:01 AM	#32
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Questions about trailering from a newbie. I don't know if I got the job done or not but I tried to post pictures of the successful tie down I did to my rig and new trailer. I took it on a road trip of about 250 miles today, everything worked like it should-no sway, rig was balanced on trailer and had a great trip. So just wanted to bore with you all with some pictures and say thanks again for all the help and ideas __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster