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#21 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Quote:
I'm going to check this out, "Late 30’s Lincoln Columbia had the turtle mounted on the axle housing."
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,455
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Here it is.
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 297
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Wanted to give an update on my broken speedometer issue. As I worked through the issue I ended up back at the "speedo junction box." I took that off and took it apart and it was filled with grease that would not allow it to move at all.
Thanks for the help everyone. Last edited by 1stford; 01-02-2026 at 07:33 AM. |
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#25 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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1stford had a few more questions about the tranny unit and feel that others may benefit too.
1).You posted several pictures of yours apart and I noticed there were 2 washers in yours and mine did not have those. Do you know where to get those? The shim washers are thin. Based on my memory, about .5mm or 1/64" or less. I often make shim washers. I have some sheets to use. I drill the holes by sandwiching the sheet between two pieces of wood, hard is better, held in my vice. Amazon sells boxed varieties too. https://tinyurl.com/mtc8zxzb Since your unit had none, when you add them, put the housing together as a trial fit to make sure the shims aren't too thick, keeping the housing halves apart. 2). Do you have any pictures of diagrams of it competed, I'm fairly certain I have it done correctly but not 100 percent sure. Note that these pictures are before I added the lever arm springs. 3). What kind of lubricant or grease to fill it with? I used John Deere corn head grease. White lithium grease would also work well. 4). How do you adjust it, what am I trying to accomplish with the wire and nut on the thin arm. I had to try different options for mine. What I bought had only one spring but the literature shows two. I ended up with spring wire about 0.01" and 5 loops as shown. 5). Is the permatex gasket maker just as good as buying one from John? I liked the gasket so bought from John, maybe $5 shipped. BTW, John did not have the small springs. For the blue Permatex, apply thinly to one side casing, clean any excess from the ID. This from Permatex. For this usage, 1/8" is too much, a 1/16" or less would be correct. "For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent, such as Permatex® Brake and Parts Cleaner. Cut nozzle to desired bead size, 1/16 “ to 1/4 “ in diameter. An 1/8” bead is usually sufficient for most applications. Remove cap, puncture tube or cartridge seal and attach extension nozzle. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, first tracing the internal areas of the gasket configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes as shown below: Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Let dry for on hour then tighten to torque specifications. Allow 24 hours to fully cure before filling with fluids or returning to service. Re-torque will not be necessary after the product has cured."
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford Last edited by glennpm; 01-02-2026 at 08:44 AM. |
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Posts: 4,097
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Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit! |
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