New Ahooga Horns from Suppliers

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

One of the key things is when you get an original horn rebuilt, all you are getting is the motor rebuilt. Most of the time, the projector and cover needs bodywork and paint, and many times the screen and the tag also need replacing. With a new repro, it is ready to bolt on without any assembly or paintwork.

Sounds like there’s a niche open for a small-time operator who did motor repairs and had a big stock of good sheet metal parts so he could fully restore cores.

[Hitman]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

Sounds like there’s a niche open for a small-time operator who did motor repairs and had a big stock of good sheet metal parts so he could fully restore cores.

I doubt it. I have the capability to fully restore horns. I'm not sure I could do it for less than the $325 cost of a new horn.

Purchasing the "core" horn, parts needed to restore the horn (tag, screen, etc.), hardware plating, sandblasting, priming and painting of the horn, and the associated materials would likely exceed any profit that makes it worthwhile. Then add in my time.

Just the amount of time to prep the area to prime or paint, and the clean up afterwards is several hours!

[ronn]

What hitman says is pretty much true across the board.
Ask Brentwood Bob how profitable selling rebuilt shocks is.

a labor of love.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

It is worth noting that while the new A&L horns were very close to being aesthetically correct, they are not close enough to be judged in MARC/MAFCA competition. I think there will always be a place for the reproduction horns within the hobby, AND for the horn restorer too.

[rickblack]

Originally Posted by ursus

I run across Hutchins horns for sale but sellers often don't know whether the horn is 6V or 12V. How does one tell which?

I Believe that Hutchins horns came out in the late 1950s/early 1960 when all new cars were 12 volt. There must have been a few 6 volt versions available for older cars. When new, there was always a decal/sticker on the chrome horn cover stating the voltage. Over time, the stickers were removed, painted over, or deteriorated to the point that you can't tell. However, if you try a 12 volt horn on a 6 volt battery, if it hardly runs, it's a 12 volt horn.

[Joe K]

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There must have been a few 6 volt versions available for older cars.

At least three as I own them. Surprisingly, I continued to collect Hutchins horns until I found the apparently elusive 12V version, which as you say barely moves when put to 6 volts.

AND - the 6V version on 12 volts you'll have trouble holding them in your hand to test them.

My observation - the 6V horns were all black, and the 12V version has a chromed bell. The back portion was painted blue.

Joe K

[ronn]

I refer to it as a "warm rod"
__________________
or maybe "tepid"?


very good point Joe. Ive only bought and seen the 12 volt models
just picked one up off ebay last month for 28. shipped to my door and yes it works fine.

[bogiediver]

After receiving a notice of a reply to this thread, I realized I did what bothers me about a lot of threads - that I promised to follow up and didn't.

I apologize.

I did end up buying a 12 volt horn from Snyder's. It looks good, sounds good and has been operated frequently over the last year+.

If you want a horn that works and looks good, I can confidently recommend the horns available from the vendors.


The reason I say 'warm rod', is because it ain't nobody's 'hot rod'. Mostly stock stuff for a nice driver with some modifications to make it reliable & fun to drive - not faster & louder.

[updraught]

Nothing more frustrating than a horn the works sometimes and not others. I assume people buy new ones for reliability.
Years ago the repro diaphrams were too thick and sounded like a moo cow.

[Bob Bidonde]

Al Lepore did a fantastic job of designing and manufacturing the Sparton replica horn. I have had them for many years, and they are fantastic in appearance and operation. However as Brent mentions, the price of the A&L horn has exceeded the price of what you can buy a restored original horn for.

[Herb Concord Ca]

Updraught, do you know how thick a "good" diaphragm is?

[updraught]

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

Updraught, do you know how thick a "good" diaphragm is?

No, can't tell you off hand.
The repo ones were sold in the late 70's early 80's that I know of. Swapping back to an original made a big difference. Maybe the metal wasn't hardened properly? Back when most repo stuff came from Argentina.

[KenBolton]

I’ve had a hand full of horns rebuilt. I haven’t had one work correctly. As dedicated as I am to origional I will now buy new.

[SDJason]

Originally Posted by updraught

Nothing more frustrating than a horn the works sometimes and not others. I assume people buy new ones for reliability.
Years ago the repro diaphrams were too thick and sounded like a moo cow.

Yup - that's why I went that route; I did what I could with my original horn, but it was intermittent at best - being a needed safety item, I absolutely wanted reliability.


Even if buying a new one was costlier than sending my old one in for refurbishment somewhere, I'd rather have an out-of-the-box guaranteed working horn when I press that button.


I care more about it doing its job than possibly saving a little $ (I suspect the cost of getting out of whatever trouble warranted having to use the horn in the first place would FAR exceed (in both time and money) whatever the savings may have been, if any).

[BlueSunoco]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Al Lepore did a fantastic job of designing and manufacturing the Sparton replica horn. I have had them for many years, and they are fantastic in appearance and operation. However as Brent mentions, the price of the A&L horn has exceeded the price of what you can buy a restored original horn for.

We have one of A&L's Sparton horns it is perfect in every way. Love it, very quality unit very well made....

[Chris Haynes]

Does anybody reproduce the 1932 horn?

[Fullraceflathead]

Has anybody actually measured the thickness of an original diaphragm I would like to know so I can tell if mine is original or 1 of the thicker reproduction ones.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

Has anybody actually measured the thickness of an original diaphragm I would like to know so I can tell if mine is original or 1 of the thicker reproduction ones.

Just measured an original (Canadian), .020"

[Herb Concord Ca]

Katy, with your .020" thick diaphragm, how does the horn sound? You happy with it?

[katy]

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