What’s up with this mercury crank gear (backwards?)

[busmania]

So should I install the timing gear cover before the valve train?

[cadillac512]

I'd install it without a gasket first and check cam end play before installing valves. Just snug up the bolts and see what you have...if it gets tight install a gasket and check again. Mine was perfect without a gasket so I used anaerobic sealer on final installation. I also left the cover on temporarily to keep the cam in place while adjusting valves. Then removed and reinstalled with sealer.


Terry

[Ronnieroadster]

As Terry above wrote I also check the cam end play without a front cover gasket. Example just today on an 8BA I'm building checking the cam end play without a gasket between the front cover and block the end play was.010. The cam was a nice used Melling Tool Company performance grind which they offered in the 60's the front cover had the typical visual wear from this cam and also its previous life with the stock Ford cam.
Its rare I ever use a front cover gasket.
Ronnieroadster

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Thanks for the tip on Dan McEachern . . . I will have to see what he has - I'm definitely interested. Pete/Ronnie - do you guys have any contact information for me to look him up?

Hi Dale
Dan may not have a V-8 set of gears ready to go he's more involved making the four cylinder items. Once you have the set of gears you will find the holes drilled in the cam gear will not be helpful for cam timing. Also since the cam gear is steel you will find its very heavy. I have many hours into the cam gear removing metal I can say its still heavier than the aluminum gear.
Ronnieroadser

[Pete]

Dan's spur gears that I have used were aluminum and I did lighten them also. Circle track engines need to spool up faster than LSR engines.

[Bored&Stroked]

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Originally Posted by Pete

Dan's spur gears that I have used were aluminum and I did lighten them also. Circle track engines need to spool up faster than LSR engines.

Did he have a steel crank gear and an aluminum cam gear? That would be my guess?

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Hi Dale
Dan may not have a V-8 set of gears ready to go he's more involved making the four cylinder items. Once you have the set of gears you will find the holes drilled in the cam gear will not be helpful for cam timing. Also since the cam gear is steel you will find its very heavy. I have many hours into the cam gear removing metal I can say its still heavier than the aluminum gear.
Ronnieroadser

Thanks Ronnie! I'm sure I'll have to do my normal "drill holes for cam timing" adjustments - not a big deal on a rotary table.

Were BOTH your gears steel from Dan? Did you also install something (similar to a cam thrust bearing/button on a SBC) to force the thrust toward the block?

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Did he have a steel crank gear and an aluminum cam gear? That would be my guess?

Yes.

As I recall the tooth count was different from stock but that does not affect anything. Dan probably did that to avoid buying another cutter.

[Pete]

Dale:

If you use a press-on gear type core, you don't need any fancy holes or systems.

If you adjust the gear location on assembly, I guarantee it is faster than adjusting a bolt hole system.

You do not have any cam walk when installed properly. No fancy thrust buttons/bearings needed.

[Bored&Stroked]

Thanks guys! I have an eMail message into Dan . . . to see what he may or may not offer these days. Take care!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Pete

Dale:

If you use a press-on gear type core, you don't need any fancy holes or systems.

If you adjust the gear location on assembly, I guarantee it is faster than adjusting a bolt hole system.

You do not have any cam walk when installed properly. No fancy thrust buttons/bearings needed.

Pete:

Interesting. Are you referring to the early stock style cams with the press on gears? I know Ford made an aluminum version of this gear.

I always just assumed that arrangement would eventually slip, but go goes show what little I know.

Tim

[Bored&Stroked]

Tim: Yes, that is what he is referring too. There is an aluminum version - works great if your cam core is the type that can use it.

You can always add a 'grub screw', roll-pin or put a small TIG tach on it if you're running a lot of spring pressure and are worried about it.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Pete

Dale:

If you use a press-on gear type core, you don't need any fancy holes or systems.

If you adjust the gear location on assembly, I guarantee it is faster than adjusting a bolt hole system.

You do not have any cam walk when installed properly. No fancy thrust buttons/bearings needed.

Pete and Dale

I have found using straight cut gears and a wet oil sump the cam will move forward. The oil pump drive will push the cam forward so that needs to be addressed. My experience is with the latter 8BA cam. This movement will create a retarding ignition issues the amount depends on how much movement is allowed.
Ronnieroadster

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Pete I have found using straight cut gears and a wet oil sump the cam will move forward. The oil pump drive will push the cam forward so that needs to be addressed. My experience is with the latter 8BA cam movement creating a retarding ignition issues the amount depending on how much movement is allowed.
Ronnieroadster

Roger on that. I have never used a wet sump. Takes up too much power.
I remove the oil drive gear from the cam also.