1936 Gear oil in Clamshell

[Erbleding]

Originally Posted by David J

The slinger- washer should be tight against the outer race of rear bearing.

I just use SAE 140.
Clamshell is meant to hold 4 oz. Much more and it will leak bad.
I use SAE 140 in there also . The felt, cork or whatever you use is a wiper. Not a seal.

Here is a picture of the inside of my case looking towards the rear. Is the slinger installed backwards on mine?

[cadillac512]

[cadillac512]

The pic above is one posted by Lawrie a while back. Should be correct...he's very good at this stuff.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Erbleding

Here is a picture of the inside of my case looking towards the rear. Is the slinger installed backwards on mine?

[Erbleding]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

The pic above is one posted by Lawrie a while back. Should be correct...he's very good at this stuff.

Thanks for the picture. After seeing this, I’m wondering if my slinger is completely missing. Something doesn’t look right with mine

[Terry,OH]

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The slinger on your transmission is backward. The slinger is cupped shaped. Note the outer edge of yours is pointed to the rear bearinng and the outter edge of Lawrie's is pointed inward toward the inside of the transmission.
If you remove the U-joint and the rear bearing retainer along with the rear bearing the slinger should come out and can be reversed. Note there is a double metal shielded bearing to replace the rear bearing just remove the inner shield so trans oil can reach the bearing internals, this will stop the leaking. Make sure the snap ring on the perimeter of the rear bearing is .075" thick and not much thinner.
The helix teeth in your transmission main shaft do differ from the teeth on Lawrie's. Yours is good and a different year than Lawrie's.

[Erbleding]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The slinger on your transmission is backward. The slinger is cupped shaped. Note the outer edge of yours is pointed to the rear bearinng and the outter edge of Lawrie's is pointed inward toward the inside of the transmission.
If you remove the U-joint and the rear bearing retainer along with the rear bearing the slinger should come out and can be reversed. Note there is a double metal shielded bearing to replace the rear bearing just remove the inner shield so trans oil can reach the bearing internals, this will stop the leaking. Make sure the snap ring on the perimeter of the rear bearing is .075" thick and not much thinner.
The helix teeth in your transmission main shaft do differ from the teeth on Lawrie's. Yours is good and a different year than Lawrie's.

Thanks! This is a big relief. So it sounds like you’re saying the rear bearing can be removed without dropping the transmission? I was thinking the bearing was pressed onto the shaft and I wasn’t sure how I would get it off. Sounds like I can get what I need from VanPelts?

[Bored&Stroked]

As noted, the slinger is in backwards. It is probably causing MORE oil to go through the bearing, not less.

You MIGHT be able to get the rear bearing out without pulling the transmission but be very careful that you don't pull the main shaft backwards with it.

I've never attempted to change this bearing while the transmission was in the car - have found it easier to just pull the engine and trans as a unit. I hate trying to work on these things when they're in the car - total pain in the rear in my mind.

I can have the engine and trans out of my 32 in about 2 hours - but I've also done it a few times!

[Erbleding]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

As noted, the slinger is in backwards. It is probably causing MORE oil to go through the bearing, not less.

You MIGHT be able to get the rear bearing out without pulling the transmission but be very careful that you don't pull the main shaft backwards with it.

I've never attempted to change this bearing while the transmission was in the car - have found it easier to just pull the engine and trans as a unit. I hate trying to work on these things when they're in the car - total pain in the rear in my mind.

I can have the engine and trans out of my 32 in about 2 hours - but I've also done it a few times!

Okay, so you find it easier to pull the motor and tranny as a unit rather than pulling the rear end back and then removing the transmission?
Thanks for your guidance

[Erbleding]

UPDATE…
The info I received from this post was invaluable. I ended up removing the engine and tranny together, opened the gear box and found that the transmission rebuilder before I bought the car actually installed the slinger backwards. To compound things, they beat it into the back of the case with a standard screwdriver. I replace the slinger and rear bearing with a sealed bearing. No leaks. It was a big job, but I’m so happy I took the time to make the repair properly

[Zeke3]

Thanks for the update, glad to hear it resolved your issue.