Barn Find 1946 Tudor.

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

The only real way to determine the Year is via the Vin Plate. Hope that this Infor helps.

No vin plate on these models to my knowledge. I.D. is on the frame.

[rotorwrench]

The post war Ford cars were all column shift so the top shift transmission was also an addition. It may still be torque tube with a banjo rear axle but it could be modified for open drive. The front sheet metal could be a transplant from an earlier car. The serial number doesn't seem to indicate an early 1947 car. (I see the torque tube in the added photos so it's got an all Ford rear drive set up.)

The old car is relatively straight with the exception of the roof. I've seen roof damage worse than that repaired but it will take some shrinking to get it there. A shrinking disk would come in handy there. A roof can be pushed up from inside the care with careful use of a porta-power or some other form of jacking device.

Lincoln and Mercury rims from 1949 through 1951 can be identified by the hub cap circle diameter which is 10-inch if I remember correctly. Ford pickups used similar 15-inch rims for a long time with 5 bolt X 5.5" pattern but i think the hub cap circle was smaller. I could be wrong though. I just don't remember for certain.

[Timmmy Taylor]

Morning everyone.

I took a bunch more pictures and added them to the same album here.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0zJ8GySPJRBnts

Any more insights would be greatly appreciated.

[rotorwrench]

That large added resistor on the lower column is a mystery to me. Its an adjustable type with a sliding ring that makes contact to the exposed resistor coil. That type of stuff is old school. I wonder if it was for a ballast resistor or something else. I guess a person would have to follow the wires if it's not apparent. The car may have been converted to 12-volt since it has tags up into the mid 70s.

It looks like someone added a single engine radius rod to bolt to the transmission but it is no longer connected there. The post war cars did away with the radius rod set up used pre-war but it's not uncommon for folks to add them to the post war cars to prevent clutch chatter when the engine moves on the mounts a bit too much from the natural push of the torque tube.

[Timmmy Taylor]

A mystery to me too, off to follow the wires LOL

[Timmmy Taylor]

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Resistor not connected to anything, there are a good number of wires under the dash that are disconnected or broken.

[Timmmy Taylor]

So digging a little deeper.

I removed the floor coverings and exposed the shifter to see the floor panel was cut with an oxy torch for the shifter on the floor.

I then proceeded to take out the front floor panel to get a better look.

Added more pictures into the gallery here:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0zJ8GySPJRBnts

The trans has a stamped number 18-3807497.

The shifter housing is an 81A-7222, with double detents, so I think this is a 39 3spd trans?

EDIT: The clutch shaft has the flattened end so maybe a 40-50 truck trans?

Additionally the bell housing is marked Offenhauser 0309! which according to google adapts the 53-56 Nailhead to the 32-48 Ford flathead transmission.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...0gOYE_Er2pHck3

[Dick]

Great car and it's history is very interesting. Great find!

The SN on the trans indicates 1937.

If you're going to use the nailhead you can lots of parts & information at www.centervilleautorepair.com

[TravisDM]

That's a great find and full of mystery! I'll see if my uncle can contribute. I'm visiting him tomorrow for the installation of the brake pads and bilstein shocks on his truck.

[rotorwrench]

Any of the older pre-1939 transmissions can be updated to the later configuration with the right parts if it hasn't already been updated. The style of synchronizer used from 1939 well up into the 50s would have to have the 91A 2nd/high shift fork but they are available. Some of the internal gears of the 1937/38 transmissions are interchangeable with the 1939 & later transmissions. Mac VanPelt's book lists all the different gears and what fits what. It's a go to book for the early ford transmissions.

You definitely have a period hot rod from the early 50s there. Make sure it has the brake backing plate mounted safety retainers to hold the rear hubs if an axle lets go. They are old axles and the nail head Buick has a good bit more power than the average flathead V8.

[Timmmy Taylor]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Any of the older pre-1939 transmissions can be updated to the later configuration with the right parts if it hasn't already been updated. The style of synchronizer used from 1939 well up into the 50s would have to have the 91A 2nd/high shift fork but they are available. Some of the internal gears of the 1937/38 transmissions are interchangeable with the 1939 & later transmissions. Mac VanPelt's book lists all the different gears and what fits what. It's a go to book for the early ford transmissions.

You definitely have a period hot rod from the early 50s there. Make sure it has the brake backing plate mounted safety retainers to hold the rear hubs if an axle lets go. They are old axles and the nail head Buick has a good bit more power than the average flathead V8.

Great information on the gearbox, thank you. I am going to try to get the engine started next weekend (waiting on ignition parts to come in). If it runs Ill see if the clutch and trans are functional.

At that point my intent is to pull the car apart, get the engine and trans out and go through both to see what is inside.

With regards to the brake backing plate safety retainers, can you educate me on those as I am not sure what you mean. Note I am not familiar at all with these early Fords, this is my first one so a lot of learning happening. I did order the carousel bible books and hope to get those this week. I have a 51 Ford but that is fairly new to me to

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Timmmy Taylor

Great information on the gearbox, thank you. I am going to try to get the engine started next weekend (waiting on ignition parts to come in). If it runs Ill see if the clutch and trans are functional.

At that point my intent is to pull the car apart, get the engine and trans out and go through both to see what is inside.

With regards to the brake backing plate safety retainers, can you educate me on those as I am not sure what you mean. Note I am not familiar at all with these early Fords, this is my first one so a lot of learning happening. I did order the carousel bible books and hope to get those this week. I have a 51 Ford but that is fairly new to me to

Because of the way they are made, early Fords can lose the entire wheel/hub/drum assembly in the case of a broken axle (which is quite common in vehicles with increased power). The whole thing will come out and when it does, the wheel will "cock" and come out, with a high probability of causing considerable damage to the rear quarter panel (fender). Also, trying to navigate at speed with three wheels is no fun either. They make two types of solution to this problem. There are the drum retainers already mentioned (I think Speedway Motors has them), and "Safety Hubs" which bolt on using two of the backing plate mounting bolts and retain the hub by a steel ring welded to the hub.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Early...8aAj68EALw_wcB

[leon bee]

I'd like to hear which Nailhead it is. Maybe it's a 401.

[rotorwrench]

Here is a Speedway link for the hub retainers. There is a small illustration on there that shows how they bolt up. Simple but very effective. As was mentioned, the tapered & keyed rear axle shaft to hub joint design makes this a must.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Early...SABEgIbQvD_BwE

[Timmmy Taylor]

Originally Posted by leon bee

I'd like to hear which Nailhead it is. Maybe it's a 401.

According to the head casting numbers its a 1956 332cuin.

[Timmmy Taylor]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Here is a Speedway link for the hub retainers. There is a small illustration on there that shows how they bolt up. Simple but very effective. As was mentioned, the tapered & keyed rear axle shaft to hub joint design makes this a must.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Early...SABEgIbQvD_BwE

Simple but effective! On the shopping list, thanks.

[tubman]

Is there an echo in the room?

Just for variety's sake here is a set of Safety Hubs. These are what real racers use (I don't think the retainers will pass tech at most racing organizations).

[Timmmy Taylor]

Originally Posted by tubman

Is there an echo in the room?

Just for variety's sake here is a set of Safety Hubs. These are what real racers use (I don't think the retainers will pass tech at most racing organizations).

Oooh I like that. Got a link?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Timmmy Taylor

Oooh I like that. Got a link?

No link, but maybe a clue. Speedway used to make them, but they are now discontinued. There is an old thread on the H.A.M.B. that says Vern Tardel used to supply them, but the link supplied there is dead. Perhaps make an inquiry of him.

It looks like everyone has gone to the cheaper, easier to install drum retainer clips. It looks like your best bet would be used. Then you would have to get a good set of hubs and drums with them or cut them off the old ones, get some proper steel rings and reinstall them on yours. Sounds like a hassle.

[Timmmy Taylor]

Originally Posted by tubman

No link, but maybe a clue. Speedway used to make them, but they are now discontinued. There is an old thread on the H.A.M.B. that says Vern Tardel used to supply them, but the link supplied there is dead. Perhaps make an inquiry of him.

It looks like everyone has gone to the cheaper, easier to install drum retainer clips. It looks like your best bet would be used. Then you would have to get a good set of hubs and drums with them or cut them off the old ones, get some proper steel rings and reinstall them on yours. Sounds like a hassle.

I have a couple of CNC milling machines, Maybe I can figure this out and make some.