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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kerrville, Tx
Posts: 2,919
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I put a 40 rear end in my 32.
I wanted to use the stock spring so I cut the hangers off the 40 rear and turned the bells upside down to give better stub bearing surfaces. A weld jig made off the 32 rear let me weld the hangers back on in exactly the right position. I would V out the hangers and reweld them if they are in the right positions. No big deal. |
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,143
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Thanks Andy. My son is a welder by trade so can take care of that easily , pre heat post heat etc.
I am still of two minds ,I like the thought of keeping the original rear, but i have on hand a very low mileage rebuilt 35/36 rear with new bearing races etc and a 3.54 ratio . The 35/36 has a reground re shaped spring already as it came from a 32 coupe . Just means we would need to fabricate /shorten a torque tube . I do have a 34 rear and TT of unknown history apart from looking decent. |
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: western Mass
Posts: 365
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spring hangers on a 32 vs the 35-6 are different distance from the axle housing so keep that in mind.
If it was me and I was keeping the banger I would stick with the 32 rear. if significantly hopping up the banger or going to V8, lose the 32 rear. you will pop it. |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,143
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We plan to fit an early Cragar OHV conversion. Probably not driven hard ,but things happen sometimes in the heat of the moment!!!
I dont see why we cant weld the appropriate 32 radius rod mounts on a 35/36 rear if that’s what’s required. |
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#25 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: western Mass
Posts: 365
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Quote:
also note the 35-36 rear is 1 3/4" wider than 32 |
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