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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,146
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Well, a little good news; the rusty bolt I put in the still black (strained) "Rust911" looked good this morning, so I guess it still is working. I'll leave this in another day or two and then flush it and see what I get. Then I'll pull one of the thermostat housings and see what it looks like.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,146
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To Kahuna (and anyone else who may be interested), I did a final few runs and a flush with water this afternoon. The "Rust911" solution came out grayish black, I then filled it with plain water, ran it again and drained it. The drain water came out yellow (about the color of pee), so I figure I must have most of the rust out. I pulled one of the thermostat housings, and the inside surface of the head I could see was black. From what I understand, this is residual carbon leached out of the iron when the rust ions are removed. I tried to scratch it to see if there was any rust under it, but there doesn't seem to be. Looks to me like all the rust is out of the cooling system. I didn't take any "before" pictures, but trust me, the insides of the heads were orange with rust.
One other thing; I have seen several places where folks suggest putting nylon stockings or some other filtering device in the radiator hoses to catch the chunks. I didn't look very hard, but I couldn't find anything in the way of sediment etc. in my drain water. Looks like this engine was pretty clean. Below are some pictures of the "Rust911" being drained, the flushing water being drained, and the inside of the head under the thermostat housing. In the final analysis, I think this was a worthwhile procedure. Edit : Oh, one last thing. In my previous post, I said that the filtered "Rust911" solution seemed to work. I think that was wishful thinking on my part; on closer inspection of the bolt I soaked, most of the improvement seemed to be from just washing off the dirt. A rusty screw I put in at the same time showed no improvement whatsoever. Too bad. Last edited by tubman; 05-29-2016 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Forgot something. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 2,617
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Thanks so much for the follow up, Tub
Seems like a good thing to do Regards Jim |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,001
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Bought a jug of EvapoRust at Advance Auto Parts Tuesday, first time user.
I soaked a pair of upper and lower Zenith carb castings in it last nite, came out GREAT. I had wire brushed the heavy crud off beforehand. Bought some plastic storage food containers at Dollar General, three for a buck, to let them soak in. Rinsed them off with water, blew out the chambers with compressed air (they are all clean now) and painted the castings with three coats of fuel proof gloss black paint. Looks great This stuff doesn't affect the brass plugs or float hinge attachment. Put a dab of Vaseline on the brass plugs to keep the paint off. No need to drill them out to clean the passages. I'm sold on the stuff great product. Got some Renner's flowed jets ordered I'm sitting pretty
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,146
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I see this old thread came back up. I realized I had some later pictures of the '51 Merc block I had been running the stuff through. Here are some pictures of the water pump openings in the front of the block. I think it looks terrific.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: newark, delaware
Posts: 3,841
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: u-rah-rah-Wisconsin
Posts: 1,270
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Actually, both Carpenter and Mac's have replacement tanks available for the stock setup.
__________________
19 and 49 F1 - jes' like Henry II built 1946 Deluxe - as Henry built it |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: newark, delaware
Posts: 3,841
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,146
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Can you tell if your problem is rust or something else (cruded up old gas)? If it's rust, I wouldn't be afraid to try it. It'll probably take at least a couple of gallons to cover the bottom of the tank (where most of the rust should be). Then stand it on each end for a day, then tilt it back for a day, forward for a day. If it comes out black, plan on doing it again.
Last edited by tubman; 05-31-2017 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Clean up |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: newark, delaware
Posts: 3,841
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Tank sat almost empty since 1974. Very little crude and some light rust. If it were worse i would tose it and look for another tank. Nothing to lose on it really. Last one i used a hot water pressure washer and it cleaned up like new. On all the 32, 37 and 40 fords ive done i just start off with a brand new tank.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Holland Mi
Posts: 761
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I just did a tank for an old vw bug, came out clean. Paul
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#12 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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LMC has them as well. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/...archTerms=fuel tank
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