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#1 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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This is AMAZING, our Workmans' Comp Doctor had a Palsy that caused his hands to shake BADLY, he sewed up MANY cuts for me, he'd shake BEFORE & AFTER, but never DURING the stitching! I admired that Man & will NEVER forget him! We were morning COFFEE Buddies, for years. Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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Other than getting the engine to start faster/better, the idea of pre-heat is get the juices [oil] flowing quicker. Most wear occurs upon start-up.
Some engine heaters, if not installed correctly, turn the engine into nothing more than a still and can cause more damage than help. On some larger air-cooled engines the feather pumps could be run to help pre-lube the engine. Plus, most if not all air-cooled stuff would frost over when cranked in cold weather and refuse to start unless pre-heated. I'm one that keeps a blanket over the old diesel tractor with a trouble light tucked under it to keep things [ especially the fuel] a bit warm. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: (Old)Shasta (Redding) CA
Posts: 388
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Keeping the battery warm, might help starting.
Just my W.A.G at the problem
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Connoisseur of Rust |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I used to put a folded blanket on top of my diesel Rabbit engine during the winter months to help retain heat. It also cut down the noise a lot. If it needed preheat, then I plugged in the block heater.
When we lived by Joliet we had a small dirt floor one car garage, and I can remember my dad sliding a pan of burning charcoal under his 1950 Champion one cold day. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,262
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Kerosene lamps and charcoal fires placed under the old Model A's.
Ån electric trouble light under a blanket too. Sounds like a recipe for disaster considering many A's drip gas and oil. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ellston, Iowa
Posts: 249
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The car never caught fire, but my brother did run into another car putting an end to his early driving career and costing my dad a $100 fine. Practices frowned upon now were common place and not out of the ordinary back then. |
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#7 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 5,230
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Getting clearances right to prevent wear can be a big deal for racers. One of Grumpy Jenkins books on building racing engines mentions having the race engine equipped with dry-break disconnects so that the engine could be easily spliced into the cooling system of its tow truck. Before a run they just hooked it up and let the truck bring both engines up to running temperature. I believe they also used an electric heater for the oil pan, and had a way to heat the rear end to eliminate losses to cold gear oil!
Jenkins was a mad genius who would do anything that might produce another tenth of a horsepower or keep his engines at peak function for a few more runs. I'd bet NASCAR teams have some interesting rituals along this line...main issue likely eliminating warmup wear to keep engine ring and valve sealing at peak for a few extra miles. If I had about 50 servants, maybe I'd put one to work preheating my rides... |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Eureka, California
Posts: 1,733
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Ahh, the dreams of youth . . . .
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,765
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-Mike Late 31' Ford Model A Tudor, Miss Daisy I don't work on cars --I'm learning about my Model A. Cleveland, Ohio |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,212
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Overheard an interesting conversation at the Ford dealer service dept the other day. Guy with a new Lincoln hybred said that using an Autostart to warm up his vehicle was not effective since when there is no demand for power, the engine isn't running. One of the gals there said there was a way to force the engine to run, (and warm up) but he wasn't interested in listening. He would rather complain.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Upstate in NY's beautifull hills
Posts: 173
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I really love this forum , seriously !
So for we've learned ; The true meaning of a "trouble light " How to detect if your A or Maytag is dripping oil by waking the fire dept & not the Maytag repair man Why so many corn cobs were stolen from out houses & blankets mysteriously disappeared in cold weather Colorado's unique registration qualifications to become a barber Keep em coming
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Once, Chief put a pan of coals under the pan & got it started, then it wouldn't MOVE. He had to pour BOILING water on the brake drums/tires, as they were FROZEN tight. LOVED them damn MUDDY ROADS.
Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 130
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Like to welcome all the Siberian Russians to the forum. (drain everything preheat... I'm still laughing) I drive in winter, "A"s hate the cold and will run like crap for 5 minutes, after 5 minutes start driving, enjoy calculating the viscosity of 600 weight gear oil at minus 20 degrees. Expect tranny to start behaving like a transmission after 15 minutes. I will state that if you are ever in Antarctica in the winter with your Model A, draining the radiator and preheating oil would be necessary. After it warms it she will run fine any temperature.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Eureka, California
Posts: 1,733
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I do remember on a camping trip crossing the Arizona desert in December of 1963, every night I had to drain out the radiator's water, put it in water-tight bags and put the bags in the Army Down-filled sleeping bag with me! Every morning I poured the water back into to my '28 Phaeton's radiator. Damn cold nights ! In fact even the day time temperatures were so cold we drove with our sleeping bags wrapped around us.
Those were the early days, before I had gotten side-curtains. And in fact, were a major reason to drive me to get side-curtains ! Never went back to anyplace outside warm sunny California. My Model A winter driving in California is much like Hale1776 mentions: runs like crap for the first five minutes, transmission shifts real smooth and quiet (I can shift without double-clutching) until the trans.lubricant warms up, then back to normal. |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 2,052
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I remember that my Dad's '55 stick shift Pontiac had to be started with the clutch in when it was near zero and would die if you didn't ease the clutch out to carve a furrow through the gear oil.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,968
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my 1980 chevette does this if its below zero haha. One morning I started off down the road, got it out of 1st then couldn't get it back in any gear, had to coast and let it warm up more in neutral.
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1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons! |
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Columbus Junction Ia.
Posts: 61
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When I was in high school in the late 1990's, my daily driver was my 1961 Chevy pickup. I had an engine heater that went in the heater hose, I know that is no good on an A, but on my truck I installed it the hose going to the heater core and if I left the lever on the dash opened to the defrost vents the heat would naturally rise from the heater core, through the vents, and kept the windshield clean for me all the time.
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Luke |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 709
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Quote:
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central Highlands, Cen~Col
Posts: 2,896
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The charcoal and kerosene fires under the oil pan are a hassle. Getting up early to start the fires and wait for the oil to warm is a pain.
In the mountains west of Denver 55 years ago I just placed an empty gallon anti freeze can with light bulb socket mounted inside under the oil pan. Set the can on top of a brick up tight against the oil pan. Put an other under the tranny. Cut the can in a shape so that less of the heat could escape. I used a 150 watt bulb unless it was really cold, then a 200 Watt bulb usually did the trick. I know that does not work if there is no electricity! In that case I had a Primus gasoline one burner, back pack stove that I put inside the antifreeze can. In Michigan we walked a mile to K thru 5th grade school and a mile back home ... it was really hard because it was uphill BOTH ways.
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