Primer Surfacer for PPG Concept paint

[bdave_mcc]

I see some of you guys mentioning SPI products. Recently I've been looking into a small company comparable to SPI. Tamco paints out of virginia. They have a poly high build primer that is 65 percent solids and they claim zero shrinkage...I'll give it a try in a couple weeks. Any of you guys heard of them or used Tamco products?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by bdave_mcc

I see some of you guys mentioning SPI products. Recently I've been looking into a small company comparable to SPI. Tamco paints out of virginia. They have a poly high build primer that is 65 percent solids and they claim zero shrinkage...I'll give it a try in a couple weeks. Any of you guys heard of them or used Tamco products?

I would like to bring this thread topic back to the surface for a bit. On a social media page dedicated to "classic car paint jobs", I posed a question if anyone knew of an online PPG jobber, ...and some 24 y.o. clown made about forty-eleven comments in a row about PPG being junk and TAMCO was the only product worth spraying. Then a moderator of the group (--ironically also a Tamco dealer) came in touting PPG was junk and he had 30 years of being a 3-time certified PPG rep, so he should know. I just shook my head and deleted the entire thread prior to me 'un-joining' that page. ( I have learned there is very little knowledge to be gained from a social media group page!! )

So it begs the question in my mind, how is it that these small 'Mom & Pop' paint manufacturers (established less than a decade or so ago) are able to provide superior products over what these long established companies who have years of research and experience under their belt can do? I am not necessarily speaking price-point here at this moment, but when I hear that something is WAY better and WAY cheaper all in the same sentence, my past experiences typically warn me that some things are not as they appear. So what do we know that would suggest that companies like Tamco, SPI, et/al are equal to, -or superior to products manufactured by PPG, DuPont, Sikens, etc.??

.

[Tinbasher]

Use the PPG line of products. Get the TECH SHEETS and read them through. You'll find everyone has their way that works for them due to the conditions and the cost they have to work with. I just finished a pair of Front fenders and had to strip them to bare metal as they had been done in Lacquer and cracked and the moisture went down to the metal. If they have of used Epoxy primer and urethane products the fenders wouldn't have needed to be done. Lacquer in this area only lasts 3 to 5 years. Urethane products 30 years.
A cost that could have been avoided using a different product.

My thoughts: John Poole

[Kevin in NJ]

Across a number of boards (when I was looking a few years ago) I found a number of shops had found SPI products to spray on as well has the PPG's and such.

I will say I am not a very good painter so any of my opinions everyone should take with that in mind.

I have sprayed one cheaper primer and found it did not cover very good at all and was a pain to spray. I have used dupont and PPG and they both did well in coverage and spraying well. I have used epoxy, filling primer, surfacer, and top coat from Dupont and PPG.

I talked to the owner of SPI and he told me he keeps the same level of solids (cheaper paints less solids more coats needed) as the big boys. He also makes the stuff with hobbyiests in mind. So there are longer recoat windows in some cases compared to the big boy paints. So I bought some. They all go on well and seem to coat the same as the big boys paints.

How well do they work. Well that is always a loaded question. It always depends on how well you have done surface prep and such. I have found you can paint over rust with old crappy paint, sand it out, and put a top coat on that looks great. The part has been like that for over 10 years laying in a corner of my garage and it still looks great today. Put it outside who knows what you will have in a year. What I am getting at is painting really depends on how well the painter knows to do his craft.

I feel you can not really go wrong with using the SPI paints from a Hobbyiest point of view. Brent has a shop and a level of quality to stand up to with fairly high expectations. He loses money if something is not right and therefore must use the best paints and can not afford to mess around. Us little guys are likely to do something wrong in process that will mess up any paint and cause issues years down the road. That is just part of the hobby.

FWIW, I have no intentions of going into business painting cars cause I know I am not the best at it. Well I suck at it

[1928Pickuppain]

I've always sprayed ppg on any automotive, motorcycle related application (except my model a was one star DuPont was broke and needed it done) but on most things I've never had a problem use a epoxy primer base then do my bindi work than a filler primer on top then coat and clear. Again never had a problem until about three years ago I painted my 85 cj7 came out nice wet sand buff looked great then abou 8 months in it started looking like the clear coat was pitting like it had be very lightly sand blasted so I rebuffed and it didn't go away just got worse not terribly worse just a as if were the pits wore filled out deeper than before. So that was I I gave it a coat of mothers wax and said whatever is what it is. Then maybe 3 months latter the whole (red) jeep turned chalky white over the clear coat. I m still confused by it. If it turned Chaulky white right after I sprayed it I would have figure there was moisture in my air lines. But this was weird defiantly a product chemical problem it's almost like the top coat is oxidizing so Idk if ppg quality control has been going down hill? Not sure

[old car guy]

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Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

PPG K36 is the best filler-primer on the market. Also the most expensive.
Having said that automotive paint gets the best results in experienced hands, which may have something to do with the complaint you found about it.
A very acceptable alternative is Transtar KwikPrime #6441. O'Reilly's is one source.
As you know of course automotive painting involves way more than a gallon of paint and a spray gun.

Had a paint and body shop for over 25 years and k36 by far is a superior product. Just like a lot of different products you do get what you pay for. And if you know what you are doing the results will speak for them selves. The subsurface is no place to skimp on product or money. And how many times do you want to sand and reshoot your car. Once s hard enough, but to have to peel it all back down a second time is outright foolish. Just a opinion of someone who made a good living and not having any call backs due to inferior product.

[Bill Stipe]

Originally Posted by old car guy

Had a paint and body shop for over 25 years and k36 by far is a superior product. Just like a lot of different products you do get what you pay for. And if you know what you are doing the results will speak for them selves. The subsurface is no place to skimp on product or money. And how many times do you want to sand and reshoot your car. Once s hard enough, but to have to peel it all back down a second time is outright foolish. Just a opinion of someone who made a good living and not having any call backs due to inferior product.

I have a question for (Old car guy) that is when you use any kind of filler are you suppose to apply that on the bare metal or over the primed surface? it does build heat when it cures and some one told to me it can draw moisture between it and the metal.
Thanks
for any advice