Pulling Diver's Helmet

[39topless]

Originally Posted by Hoop

"I started a post similar to this one last week and the help was awesome. This post causes me some confusion though. Bruce's post above says to adjust the points to the wide end of the range and set the timing to 4* which will be about the middle of the scale. Per the advice I got, I set points to .015 and timing screw up by two notches. I'm starting to get the feeling that there's no right answer and no wrong answer."

You've been given the right answer, but you're just easily confused.

One of the problems with car forums is that 20 guys can give you advice ... 19 are wrong, only one is right.

You'll take the advice of the 19, popular vote.

Once more ... :

The marks on the advance index plate are 4 crankshaft degrees apart. The middle one by design is 0 degrees. If you move the index 1 notch, that is 4 crankshaft degrees.

If "Duece" has a Sun machine and sets his distributor's LH points at 22 1/2 degrees of dwell, there's nothing to help him set the initial advance. He must go to an additional device, such as a KRW fixture to set it. If he does, the distributor's index normally will be at 1 notch advanced from the center.

Because of some variations in the condition of some points, the alignment of the index can vary. But, that's usually where it ends up.

For someone to give you the right answer, they should have spent considerable time with a strobe machine AND a KRW fixture AND a set of feeler gauges.

A forum is going to flood you with information. Some of it is well-meaning but simply wrong. Some is wild-assed guessing and repeating something someone else said.

Having posted this, I will absolutely guarantee that very soon the same questions will come up ... and the same wrong answers will be given again.

That's just the way it is.

I guess we should all quit responding to posts and just let you give all the "correct" answers.

[Hoop]

"I guess we should all quit responding to posts and just let you give all the "correct" answers."

You are right. It really is more important that everyone should get to participate.

It was thoughtless and unkind for me to suggest anything otherwise.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Fooey. Ask Ford how to set something, and you get one lousy answer from a corporation worth billions.
Ask online, and dozens of people freely share dozens of answers! That's the power of the internet! ;0

[ford38v8]

"everyone should get to participate."

That is SO very generous, I am overwhelmed with gratitude.

[FlatheadTed]

I am joining this discussion late but my 2 cents .,I have set many distributors over the years and very few came to me with the distributor set correctly even though very few miles had be done on them since servicing ,it shows that ninety per cent run after a fashion but not as they should .There is a right answer ,if your setting your points at 15 then its not timed ,in the book 15 was the starting point then adjustments are made after that, more like 16 and 11 with the wider one on the drivers side .With the points we get now its even harder .With the advance [plate one notch up you will be close but unlikely spot one .Ted

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

I started a post similar to this one last week and the help was awesome. This post causes me some confusion though. Bruce's post above says to adjust the points to the wide end of the range and set the timing to 4* which will be about the middle of the scale. Per the advice I got, I set points to .015 and timing screw up by two notches. I'm starting to get the feeling that there's no right answer and no wrong answer

[Capt Kirk]

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Ted. The more posts I read the more and more it's becoming clear. Hoop did say that 15 was the starting point in my thread and that it could be used in order to eliminate the distributor as a problem area if there were other problems with the engine. I also understand setting the two points at different gaps. Together they control the dwell.
Hoop might be right about the "paralysis by analysis"...sorry, I can't help it. I love to know how and why things work and struggle with the..."it works just because it does" mentality (not saying that I find that here). I'm not paralyzed...I have set my distributor per Hoops directions and will install it tomorrow. I have no doubt that it will run better based on the condition I found when I first took it apart. I realize that it would be a miracle if it's set exactly right with timing and dwell. I guess the only way I can do any better than what I've done is to send it in to have someone else set it up or buy a $500 tool and do it myself. My initial reason for pulling the distributor was because the engine was running on the hot side, was reluctant to start after heated up due to "timing bind" and the timing plate was at the bottom of the slot. If I can cure these 3 things then I'm fine. If the dwell and/or timing is off a couple degrees but it runs cooler and starts great after warmed up...mission accomplished!

[V8COOPMAN]

For the folks that have been around here for a while AND that have half a clue, they know well that WHEN Hoop speaks, pay attention! Same goes for Bruce L. DD

[FlatheadTed]

Capt Kirk ,there's nothing wrong with experimentation ,timing plate down= retarded timing ,= a hot motor ,I am sure if you have done it Hoops way you'll be fine .Ted

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Well, I'll try to help out Countrysquire a little. He clam's the plug wires came out of the inner cap when he was taking the dist out and had a hard time getting them in the right place. If you remove the coil first and take a long screw driver you usually tap the inner cap and it will come out of the dist with out the wires coming of the inner cap. Walt