More issues, fuel maybe? Carb?

[Vanspeed]

Yes gas tank is out. I heard that denatured alcohol works, has anybody tried that? Water alone does not look like it will do much.

[Ross F-1]

There is supposed to be a bronze screen inside the tube on the valve.

I'd honestly buy a brand new tank. Very reasonable and made to handle gasohol. Why fight it?

[JSeery]

I've had to replace the tanks on my trucks, they were a mess inside. I have cleaned and sealed tanks as well. It is a lot of work and takes a lot of time, but it can be done. Also, the chemicals are not cheap!

[B-O-B]

Eastwood sells a kit for around $80.00 when I bought mine a year ago for the 34 roadster. They had a sale going. Has everything you need to clean & seal your tank. They also were an alliance(HAMB thing) but it didn't apply to the tank kit as it was on sale. Just took me a couple of days mostly letting it soak. Been in there for a year or so & sits for 6 months with that s*** they cal motor fuel. So far the sealer is holding up. The tank had rodent nests & rust when I got the car.

[B-O-B]

Here ya go on Amazon. You folks need to learn how to use GOOGLE. Sure would save you a lot time.
POR-15 49239 Auto Fuel Tank Repair Kit



by POR-15

4 customer reviews




List Price: $86.70 Price: $67.18 + $8.95 shipping You Save: $19.52 (23%)

Earn 3% Back (worth at least $2 when redeemed) with your Amazon.com Rewards Visa Card. Learn more





Only 5 left in stock.
Ships from and sold by ecustomhitch.



Estimated Delivery Date: June 15 - 18 when you choose Standard at checkout.

• MARINE CLEAN to remove gum, sludge, varnish
• METAL READY to remove rust and prepare tank for sealer
• U.S. STANDARD TANK SEALER creates a permanently sealed tank
• BRUSH for applying patching system to exterior of tank
• DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS to take you easily through each step of tank restoration

[Vanspeed]

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Yeah no rodent nests here, the tank for the most part looks good, just not the bottom three or so inches. I want to try and clean it first before replacing it.

[JSeery]

You can buy most of the chemicals at a hardware store cheaper than the kits IF you are just interested in cleaning it. Lots on information online on what and how. The sealer is a different matter.

[George/Maine]

You could try one of those self car wash high pressure and stick it down bottom and get all loose dirt and put a filter in line. If it rust its for ever new tank.

[39topless]

The baffles in a gas tank make it really hard to clean all the little nooks and crannies. I would go with a new tank and never have to worry about it again.

[Binx]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Yes gas tank is out. I heard that denatured alcohol works, has anybody tried that? Water alone does not look like it will do much.

Long ago someone here said E85 gasoline (85% alcohol) worked well to remove the old gum. Cheaper than buying cans of alcohol.

Lonnie

[JSeery]

New tank at LMC is $199 if you are interested in a reference point.

[Ross F-1]

If you do go with a new tank, consider adding a return line fitting.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

If you do go with a new tank, consider adding a return line fitting.

Why would you want a return line on a low pressure system?

[Ross F-1]

See G.M.'s experiments on preventing vapor lock. Circulating the excess fuel back to the tank helps keep the pump cool with the stock mechanical pump. If you are using an electric pump with regulator, having a return line from downstream of the regulator really helps maintain a steady pressure.

[JSeery]

I use return lines on all of my high pressure installations, but seems like overkill on a low pressure setup. Vapor lock should not be an issue on a flathead with an electric pump. The pump is pushing the fuel not pulling it (assuming the electric pump is mounted low and near the tank). It is the pulling on the fuel that is the major component in vapor lock. The stock pump is mounted high in relation to the fuel tank and has to pull the fuel up to the pump. Add in the heat where the pump is located and it is an ideal setup for vaporizing the fuel.

[Ross F-1]

With an electric pump the issue is more about keeping the regulator within its setpoint. They don't do well dead-headed. But electric pumps are also cooled by fuel flow, keeping a minimum flow helps them.

My point is, if you have a new tank, it's easy and cheap to add, even if you don't end up using it. Once the tank has had gas in it, a much bigger deal.

[scooder]

I agree Ross, easy job on a new tank, be almost silly not to. As you stated, a return line will be of benefit wether leccy pump or mechanical.
Martin.

[G.M.]

You don't need to run the small return line to the tank. I run mine high up in the filler neck. The other tube seen in the picture is the original vent line.
You could "T" into that but I prefer the way I did it, you can look down the filler pipe when it's running and see the fuel returning. I think on this one I used brake tubing with about a .120 orifice to control the amount of fuel returned. To small of a return and the cooling effect may not enough, to large of a return and the carb will run out of fuel at high speeds. G.M.

[Ross F-1]

G.M., on an F-1 the tank is in the cab, and the filler mostly is too. I've thought about adding your kind of return in the filler pipe, not sure I want that kind of plumbing in the cab...

[Vanspeed]

Not going with a new tank yet. I spent the day after work on it for about an hour. Amazing how much I got out. I have a plan for the remaining crap. This truck is an all original truck so I am keeping everything I can.