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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA Poconos
Posts: 723
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I have a '48 F-1. As I read through the Ford service literature of that era ('48-'53) I find that detergent oil was just coming into service. Not mentioned in early literature but recommended a year or two later. It's not a matter of whether it was recommended in the 30's and 40's - it didn't exist!! When it did come on the market Ford embraced it - for the same engines we are running now. Detergent oil doesn't clean the engine - it keeps the sludge from forming. I can't imagine not using it. I run it in my original '48 engine and am happy to do so. I've used it in Model A's, V-8s and old tractor engines. Embrace the new (Late '40s!!) technology!! Same discussion for multi-viscosity (10-40) oils.
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#22 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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Quote:
Just one last question. Why do antique auto parts dealers like Mac's still sell the non-detergent engine oil? |
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Salado, TX.
Posts: 733
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For the same reason politicians continue to deceive..............despite reality there's a market for it..........
__________________
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge. |
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#24 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Same as the 600w they sell!
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#25 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,006
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Non-Detergent is for break in. I wouldn't recommend it for any other use. If you need some, Restoration Supply Company carries it and other harder to find lubricants.
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA Poconos
Posts: 723
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#27 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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Great thread, logic has it that keep ing all thad Gunk and ware products in suspension is great for an engine with a full flow filter. However, without the FULL flow filter we just pump all that cr*p through the bearings. Plan a head.
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#28 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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Quote:
Thanks Ron, you are a wise man. |
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#29 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Salado, TX.
Posts: 733
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Quote:
It would depend on particle size and molecular weight (don't panic folks, this isn't going to get too wonky). Even if there is a full flow system the oil still changes color dependent on how much stuff/contaminant the engine produces/ingests. Particles smaller than the porosity of the filter media still get through. A large part of why a filter system has a bypass is so that if too much junk accumulates to plug the filter the engine will still get oil; the engineers knowing that "dirty" oil is better than no oil. The dispersant won't hold all particles in suspension either (this goes to the wear particle idea). Higher molecular weight particles will not be held in suspension by the dispersant, and maybe a few will be held "afloat" by fluid flow, but most will likely fall out of the oil flow. If the particle size is smaller than the bearing clearances they will likely flow past those bearing surfaces except in some unusual circumstances. In which case, a non-detergent oil would likely have the same issues. Frequent oil changes in an unfiltered system would help some, but, depending on how much contaminant the engine produces, isn't a complete solution either.
__________________
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge. |
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#30 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,633
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Quote:
The non-detergent oil of yesteryear also kept impurities in suspension, but only until the engine was shut down, at which time the impurities slowly began to sink to become sludge on all horizontal surfaces of the engine. This culling of impurities occurred overnight, thereby allowing a somewhat cleaner oil to begin the new day with. As a side note, all full flow oil filters have a built-in bypass that allows oil to return to service without first being filtered. Although intended to pass increasingly more oil as the filter gets dirty, we as consumers have no way of knowing when and if those filters are actually full flowing.
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Alan |
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#31 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,633
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Uncle Bob, I didn't really steal your thunder, you posted while I was typing! At least we know that we are in agreement on the important stuff!
__________________
Alan |
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#32 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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"we as consumers have no way of knowing when and if those filters are actually full flowing."
Not entirely true, the filters have a by-pass pressure rating, so you at least know the pressure (in the filter) it will start to by-pass at. |
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#33 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,633
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"...the filters have a by-pass pressure rating..."
I'm sure this is true, but where is this information available to the public, and how reliable is it?
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Alan |
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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Oi-vey....I wish I knew what I was doing!
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#35 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 6,201
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I run diesel rated oil in my flatheads and other old engines. Something I read about 'flat tappet' engines and more zinc in the diesel rated stuff. Just so happens with a bunch of diesels around, it's what's on my shelf. Just sayin'....
__________________
Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA Poconos
Posts: 723
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So, under any circumstances you should change oil frequently unless you've managed to rig up a full-flow filter! The sludge-producing elements go out with the oil if they are suspended in the detergent oil!
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#37 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: oroville calif
Posts: 892
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non detergent oil has no anti acid, no anti wear, no anti moisture, no anti foaming agent, and absolutely no cleaning agents (detergents) you have a $4000 to $5000 engines, so go ahead and use non detergent oil, it wont hurt to have a new engine every 5000 miles or so, I love these guys who read that 80 year old maintenance guide, and think its gossible, they have no idea how much better oils and greases are now compared to back then, they ran that oil because that's all they had, non detergent oil is just refined oil with nothing in it to protect your engine that's why the 500 mile oil change was recommended, even the cars in the 50's with out filters were told to change the oil every 1000 miles because of better oil
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#38 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Shell Knob Missouri
Posts: 152
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I didn't say hyproid gl. 4 or 5. I said GEAR OIL. A 90 wt. gear oil is the same as a 50 wt non detergent. oil. Anyway it was back in the day. OH my god not the oil story. LOL. He didn't ask what to use he wanted to know where to get non deterg. oil.
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#39 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 9,239
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My engines tend to run on a through flow constant loss system.
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#40 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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