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#21 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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The 48s have fairly simple wiring, should not be to difficult a task to install a new harness. Just be sure (as already stated) it is a harness designed with 6v wire size.
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Buchanan, MI
Posts: 702
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My opinion, for what it's worth.
12 volts makes life a lot easier on these old Fords, especially with a daily driver. You will find that out on a hot summer day when you try to restart after a drive. |
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#23 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Orem, Utah
Posts: 5,781
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Quote:
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Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) ![]() "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 260
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I have just finished a 50's style 38 Ford Coupe it is all 6 volt. It has heavy duty wiring from Tyree Harris and really good grounds and soldered connections. Optima battery starts like a champ! Lights are OK.
My other project is a 52 F1. I already have Tyree Harris wiring (6 volt) This F1 will be back to Henry standards in a year or so.... Optima battery in an old case. g |
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#25 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Odessa, FL
Posts: 7,612
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Quote:
Rewiring your F-1, for 6 or 12 volts, is easy as long as you get a harness from a reputable dealer. I've used Rhode Island Wiring, Dennis Carpenter, Bob Drake and Tyree Harris. You'll find the toughest part of the job is installing the light bulbs in the instrument cluster...
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Imagination is more important than knowledge. |
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
Posts: 3,508
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Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's. |
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#27 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Like Vic says, there are many sources (and several more he didn't list). Everyone will have a different opinion on which ones are the best.
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#28 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,147
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No offense intended, but isn't the purpose of this forum to help each other out? If anyone has an opinion of one over the other, I think it helps everyone to public what we have found. For example, I have had 2 experiences with Rhode Island wiring. The first time, I wanted to replace the temp gauge crossover wire on my very original '51. The wire I received was of good quality and quite expensive, but had the wrong insulation. The second time, I needed the parking light unit wiring and called them again. They were again quite expensive, and gave me a lead time of over 6 weeks, so I went elsewhere where they had them in stock. Rhode Island may be OK for high quality, expensive harnesses for people with long term projects, but I won't be using them again.
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#29 | |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Quote:
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#30 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Odessa, FL
Posts: 7,612
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I bought the wiring harness for our '39 LZ from Rhode Island Wiring, they are pricy but the harness is very nice. My one complaint with them is; they didn't send enough connectors... I called and was told they didn't include connectors because they didn't know how many were needed... YES... that is what I was told... I told them "you made the harness, you can't count the number of connectors?" Than they told me the connectors were $1.00 each... I told them that, for what I paid, I expect to have all the connectors included in the price. I did get a full complement of connectors at no charge but, they have lost any future business from me. Tyree Harris made the harness for my '53 F-100 Panel, I got the harness for the '39 CS from Dennis Carpenter and the harness for the '51 F-1 from Bob Drake. All are excellent quality and all but Rhode Island Wiring were reasonably priced.
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Imagination is more important than knowledge. |
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#31 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Another source is Sacramento Vintage Ford
http://www.vintageford.com/global_se...cEntry=vintage hot&Category=&StartRow=41&PageNum=3 I know nothing about them other than I have looked at their site a lot. Believe there are some others as well. Edit: Also the Hot Rod Company http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shop...=wire&first=20 Last edited by JSeery; 01-22-2015 at 07:09 PM. |
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#32 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pa.
Posts: 2,228
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Hi Jeff, I installed the ones Macs supplies. They do look very original, are stock for the 6V system and can be used on either 12V or 6V. The instructions and schematics /wiring diagrams are very good. Even though the wire color and harness wrap look like the original stock type they are made with much sturdier modern material. With the instructions and diagrams it's a fairly easy job.
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Nomad |
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#33 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,147
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Quote:
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Plainfield, IN
Posts: 360
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I used their's a few years ago on my '50 - dash, engine compartment, head lights, tail lights, and both cross overs - it was my first time to rewire a car -very sweet - great diagrams - I would/will buy from Mac's again - (going to need to replace some wiring on my '52 now).
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4 doors are better than no doors! |
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#35 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kalispell Montana
Posts: 344
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If you haven't found them yet, check out Sacramento Vintage Ford. I've used 2 of their harnesses. I use stock harness even with 12V conversions because wiring vehicles is one of my least favorite things
![]() One reason for 12? If you want to add any modern accessories 12 is much easier. Three of my 5 trucks (48-52s) are converted - like the one in my avatar. The first question you need to decide is whether you're staying strictly stock or not. That will answer many of your other Qs. |
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
Posts: 3,508
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Thanks for all the replies and feedback. I appreciate it. I think I am going to stay 6 volt as it is an old farm truck and I don't think I will ever add any modern accessories to it.
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Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's. |
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#37 |
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Senior Member
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I had a 1951 F-1 that I changed to a later GM engine because I had it and because it fit with no cutting. Of course it was 12 volt and the only change I had to do was put a resister on the heater motor that droped the voltage down to 7.5 volts and change all the light bulbs. All gauges etc worked with the 12 volts with no changes. Drove it that way for about 15 years as a daily driver with no problems. The resister I used for the heater was a GM blower resister. I cut a hole in the bottom of the heater to mount the resister so it would be in the air stream to keep it cool.
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#38 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,264
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Both of mine are 6, no problems if grounds are clean and the battery is good.
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