The Ford Barn

fordscript · 09-19-2014, 05:00 PM

Do you have the proper length rod from the throttle shaft to the accelerator pump? Which connection S or W? Try running the engine with the rod disconnected, and the accelerator pump at the top of its stroke. This might reveal something.

37SLANTY · 09-19-2014, 10:07 PM

I will test that out. It's on summer right now. I'm not sure what the correct length is supposed to be. Any one know?
An update to my earlier posts, engine runs much better now since setting the timing and tightening the manifold bolts. I suspect the big problem was the manifold sucking air under high vacuum at idle, but that theory will be tested tomorrow when I take it to the sniffer. I can now idle at 400 rpm easily.

Also I disconnected the vacuum brake and plugged the intake because that constant vacuum leak doesn't seem right to me. I know people say that's how it is, but I think any vacuum leak is a bad thing.

My distributor metal slider tab is set 1 line advanced (up in my case) from center which provided exactly 4 degrees advance at idle confirmed by my dial timing light, and my newly added TDC line on my crank pulley.

Road test engine is a lot more responsive and peppy. now we shall see what happens tomorrow at the test...fingers crossed.

37SLANTY · 09-20-2014, 04:02 PM

Passed sniffer today HC was 337 instead of 2000 on idle test.
My driving test CO was higher than it was before for some reason, but still within range of passing.
Guess the intake bolts were the problem. The over advanced distributor probably didn't help. Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. I would never have suspected the intake manifold bolts were loose.

Still would like to know how to make the Allen distributor machine work with the positive ground pertronix distributor, but I guess I will have to keep searching for that answer.

Don · 09-20-2014, 04:49 PM

A 6 volt lantern battery will not run the Allen machine,needs a 6 volt car battery,not enough amps in a lantern battery.

37SLANTY · 09-20-2014, 06:40 PM

ok. You mean run the pertronix, not the distributor machine right? because if I test a 12 volt distributor I don't need a battery at all with the machine, the strobe works as is.

Don · 09-20-2014, 07:06 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

My Allen takes a car battery to make the Meters work and the strobe flash ,my Allen has a coil and set up just like a car

37SLANTY · 09-20-2014, 07:18 PM

oh, ok mine does not. It works all by itself somehow. It must have a power supply in it.

09-19-2014, 05:00 PM	#21
fordscript Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oamaru, New Zealand Posts: 432	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford Do you have the proper length rod from the throttle shaft to the accelerator pump? Which connection S or W? Try running the engine with the rod disconnected, and the accelerator pump at the top of its stroke. This might reveal something.

09-19-2014, 10:07 PM	#22
37SLANTY Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 17	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford I will test that out. It's on summer right now. I'm not sure what the correct length is supposed to be. Any one know? An update to my earlier posts, engine runs much better now since setting the timing and tightening the manifold bolts. I suspect the big problem was the manifold sucking air under high vacuum at idle, but that theory will be tested tomorrow when I take it to the sniffer. I can now idle at 400 rpm easily. Also I disconnected the vacuum brake and plugged the intake because that constant vacuum leak doesn't seem right to me. I know people say that's how it is, but I think any vacuum leak is a bad thing. My distributor metal slider tab is set 1 line advanced (up in my case) from center which provided exactly 4 degrees advance at idle confirmed by my dial timing light, and my newly added TDC line on my crank pulley. Road test engine is a lot more responsive and peppy. now we shall see what happens tomorrow at the test...fingers crossed.

09-20-2014, 04:02 PM	#23
37SLANTY Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 17	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford Passed sniffer today HC was 337 instead of 2000 on idle test. My driving test CO was higher than it was before for some reason, but still within range of passing. Guess the intake bolts were the problem. The over advanced distributor probably didn't help. Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. I would never have suspected the intake manifold bolts were loose. Still would like to know how to make the Allen distributor machine work with the positive ground pertronix distributor, but I guess I will have to keep searching for that answer.

09-20-2014, 04:49 PM	#24
Don Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ashland KY Posts: 1,159	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford A 6 volt lantern battery will not run the Allen machine,needs a 6 volt car battery,not enough amps in a lantern battery. __________________ DON P

09-20-2014, 06:40 PM	#25
37SLANTY Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 17	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford ok. You mean run the pertronix, not the distributor machine right? because if I test a 12 volt distributor I don't need a battery at all with the machine, the strobe works as is.

09-20-2014, 07:06 PM	#26
Don Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ashland KY Posts: 1,159	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) My Allen takes a car battery to make the Meters work and the strobe flash ,my Allen has a coil and set up just like a car __________________ DON P

09-20-2014, 07:18 PM	#27
37SLANTY Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 17	Re: allen syncrograph / 37 ford oh, ok mine does not. It works all by itself somehow. It must have a power supply in it.