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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Visalia Ca.
Posts: 617
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That fan looks as if the blades have been twisted to give them a little more pitch. A little scary
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#22 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Quote:
Nick |
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Ok guys, asked my wife to go take some pics of the fan, you all have me worried now, but I'm thankful for pointing these things out.
Here you go... ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Is that a big crack I see where the blade turns into the hub?
Just outside the nut area in the curve is where they like to crack and send the blade through the hood or radiator. I'm one of the few that still runs an original fan. but I check it often and may even switch to the aluminum fan. |
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#25 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: La Verne California
Posts: 287
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As long as the filter is of proper size to flow the CFM of the engine there will be no performance reduction. It is simple mathematics. A = (C.I.D. x RPM) / 25,500. You can go a step further and be sure of no restriction by using a Hiboy that has the K&N.
Just because Henry didn't think it needed a filter doesn't mean it shouldn't have one. |
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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#27 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Quote:
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#28 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: La Verne California
Posts: 287
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Purdy, you're right they ain't purty. You're also right you don't need one. I need one because of my back round with engines in general. We've run engines without filters because of unforeseen circumstances and boy does it wreak havoc. Not A engines and for the most part people don't run their A's that many miles but if I were taking a long drive I would most certainly want one on my car.
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#29 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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That being the case, I suppose that if I was you I would use one. Smiley face
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#30 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Hey guys, got the all clear from the doctor today that I can resume normlactivities, eye recovery was 3 or 4 days ahead of schedule...said I did a good job keeping my head down.
That said I'm going to drive up to Snyder's tomorrow morning to pick up some parts to start the adventure of fixing the fuel leak by taking off the shutoff valve and replacing it with a new fuel line, take off the air cleaner (still on the fence if I'm going to replace it and possibly replace the fan. After posting the pics of the fan earlier in this thread are their any additional comments as to the installed fan being original or not....I'm calling my FIL tonight to see if he remembers what is on it... Also, when I replace the fuel line do I need to add Teflon tape in the connections, looks like there may be tape on the connections now but want to confirm if I need it or not. There is a small car show in my neighborhood Sunday so I want to try to get it running on Saturday to take her to the show. As always, thanks for the help. Nick |
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#31 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,593
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Along with everyone else, personally I would buy a new aluminum fan (cheaper now than the future cost of hood and radiator repair, not to say it won't let loose when you're standing next to it!), a new fuel line, a new fuel shut-off valve (inside, under the tank), and filter that installs in that valve. Likely, the reason for the added fuel valve at the carburetor was that the stock valve would not completely shut off. The current repro under tank valves are good. Teflon tape doesn't do much good on compression fittings. I agree with the majority on not needing an air filter unless you drive a lot of miles on dusty roads and then the carb should be balanced.
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#32 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Thanks Roger, just spoke to my father-in-law, he said the two blade fan on the car today was put on the car about 15 years ago, definetly going to buy the aluminum fan and replace it.
I'm confident that the shut off inside the car is good, the only way I could get the leak to stop was to turn that off, with that valve off there was no fuel leak. My FIL felt if one shutoff valve was good, two had to be better not taking into account it also added two other places where fuel can leak out of. Probably going to buy a new valve anyway just to have it in case I need it. I'm going to take the air filter that is on the car off and run it that way for awhile, going to buy another air filter (probably the K&N that flips under the carburetor) just to have it if I want to add it back on later. Thanks on the Teflon tape, kind of thought that but it looked like it currently had tape on it. |
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#33 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 175
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I just noticed something - why is the vacuum line larger thickness then the fuel line? - I thought it was the other way around
You may want to get that correct |
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: lafayette,la
Posts: 459
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NABCO, If you decide to use teflon tape use the YELLOW type it's GAS RESISTANCE, you can find it in the plumbing dept at hardware, lowes etc. I NEVER FIND IT AT AUTO parts house. have fun modelAtony tony white Lafayette, LA
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#35 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Thanks Tony...
So what are the thoughts on the vacuum line that Jim pointed out? |
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Arcadia, CA
Posts: 145
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Someone posted on here that Yellow tape is gas resistant and Orange tape is gasoline resistant.
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#37 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Teflon tape will cause more problems than it will ever solve. If you put a klittle too much, you can crack fittings or what they screw into. When you remove the fitting particals of the tape will enter the carburetor and cause problems. I don't even like teflon tape for plumbing use. If I used any type of sealer it would be something like Permatex high tack. Brattons lists this product on page 37 part number 7840. This sealer is usually available at any parts store that sells Permatex products .The gas line fittings on the carb and sediment bowl use ferules and really should need no sealer . The cut off valve and fittings under the tank may benefit from the use of this type sealer, especially the cut off valve . Be sure to use the stand up filter that fits in the cut off valve and stands up in the bottom of the tank .
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#38 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Quote:
What are your thoughts on the vacuum line, from the pic in my original post does it look like the wrong one, a new one is only 5 bucks. Nick |
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#39 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: North Chesterfield, VA
Posts: 299
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The vacuum line is definitely not the correct one. Two questions: Is it leaking? Are you going to enter the car in fine point judging? If the answer to both of the questions is no, I would probably just leave the line on the car and not worry about it.
__________________
'31 40B '31 68C |
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#40 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dublin, OH & Clyde, NC
Posts: 494
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Quote:
If it won't hurt replacing it I'll probably grab one tomorrow and put it on. Thanks |
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