brake nut question

[Terry, NJ]

Kurt, FWIW, That's the way I do it too. Tighten it up with pliers, then back off, then finger tighten it. In the 1960s, I had a bearing too tight and rode up the NY Thruway at 70MPH. When I reached Vermont, the bearing was thoroughly cooked. Ohhh..,..Damn! After many hours and much reliance on other people's very good nature, I swore a "Never Again!" And I've kept a little looseness in the bearings. Once burnt, twice shy! I felt that I can't over tighten any nut with just my fingers. And it works!
Terry

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

The method I have used aftert experimenting with many of the methods in shop man using torque wrenches---dial indicators etc. it comes out the same as the "fancy" methods---
If the castle nut moves easy on the threads with fingers ---tighten with wrench,or pliers while spinning drum(seats bearing), back off nut till "loose", tighten as tight as you can get it with 2 fingers while spinning drum, back off to first alignment of cotter pin hole

Never give in to the urge to "just a little tighter, the pin holes almost line up"

[H. L. Chauvin]

When I got my Town Sedan, the front hub nuts were finger tight, & guess what?

The rear hub nuts were also finger tight.

Former owner said he had it for 20 years in his large car collection in New York State & only drove the Model A about 200 miles in 20 years in a couple of slow moving parades -- luckily no axle key damage.

Maybe some vintage car collectors can easily get confused with varying auto specifications -- always a good idea to check out everything after a new vintage car purchase.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

When I got my Town Sedan, the front hub nuts were finger tight, & guess what?

The rear hub nuts were also finger tight.

Former owner said he had it for 20 years in his large car collection in New York State & only drove the Model A about 200 miles in 20 years in a couple of slow moving parades -- luckily no axle key damage.

Maybe some vintage car collectors can easily get confused with varying auto specifications -- always a good idea to check out everything after a new vintage car purchase.

H.L,
When I bought Vermin, ("RESTORED"??? in 1987 & barely driven) the rear drag link end had too short a spring in it & could have easily fallen off the ball!! All steering parts looked NEW. The trans & diff was shiny clean inside & apparently rebuilt, but each contained only about 1/8 cup of new looking gear oil!! Red front wheel bearing grease was very clean, but was hard, as if parafin had been melted & poured in around the rollers. I still have to pop off the rear drums & check the hub bearings for grease. TERRIBLE oil leak at front of engine, caused by the "hidden" timing cover bolt missing.
Point being, as you said, DON'T take ANYTHING for granted on a newly purchased car. Bill W.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Bill,

Appears it is always most helpful to all Model A owners to mention past situations either experienced or heard of concerning life safety & mechanical caution.

As far as front hubs, years ago I was riding with a guy at 70 mph, at about 2:00 a.m. on a rural highway when his front wheel bearings wore out -- his 1965 station wagon was instantly swerving all over the highway almost out of control -- when the front hub was removed, individual roller bearings had come apart & fell on the road -- had to get towed.

Also, in speaking to the Uvira Headlight Reflector owner's Dad years ago, he mentioned someone buying an almost perfect Model A Show Car -- while later driving, ring & pinion gears, bearings, axles, & cluster gears were all ruined at the same time -- former owner forgot to add lubricant to his newly & totally rebuilt differential -- can't remember all of the other damage details when the rear end locked up at about 50 mph on a California Freeway -- think he said luckily nobody injured, but what a big ouch to the wallet after paying a high price for a Model A Show Car!

Thanks.