Stuck Head

[johnneilson]

Bill
You will get many different opinions on this, so here goes mine
You can get a very good set of solid guides and modern style valves very reasonable
Chances are the existing seats are getting low so the choice is to either put in seats or get valves just a little larger. .050 to .065 dia This will allow for cutting existing seat and put the valve back up where it belongs
Now the question is what about the lash and lifters, this is where you need to be concerned
Does it currently have adjustable or original solid?
Both can be done, just have to be careful

J

[BillCNC]

Originally Posted by johnneilson

Bill
You will get many different opinions on this, so here goes mine
You can get a very good set of solid guides and modern style valves very reasonable
Chances are the existing seats are getting low so the choice is to either put in seats or get valves just a little larger. .050 to .065 dia This will allow for cutting existing seat and put the valve back up where it belongs
Now the question is what about the lash and lifters, this is where you need to be concerned
Does it currently have adjustable or original solid?
Both can be done, just have to be careful

J

I think they are original.

Regards
Bill

[WHN]

Originally Posted by BillCNC

If I go full set, should I go with the original mushroomed ended valves or the modern style? I'll be replacing them with the engine still in the car if possible.

Regards
Bill

I think this is going to get you a lot of advice.

If it were my car. Not knowing anything else about the rest of the engines condition. I would stick with original style valves.

Enjoy.

[johnneilson]

Look original to me.

You might check with Dennis Piranio, I have used the set of modern valves from him in the past. He has quite a bit experience on this and is trustworthy.

John

[alexiskai]

A valve job is one thing, but cutting and inserting new seats with the engine in the car is not within most folks’ skill set and may not be worth the risk even then.

[GeneBob]

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Take a good look at the valve seats. My engine rebuild started out as a valve job but then realizing that the valve seats were worse than what I could fix with the engine in the car.

[Brendan]

Rope trick will not work, you will brake something inside the engine, and starting it up with the head unbolted will not work. it took me 3 weeks to take off my head. i drilled out 2 spark plugs, bolted on a chain and lifted the front wheals off the ground, and jumped up and down on the bumper, the head did not move. i barrowed a head puller, i thought that would work. i broke a part on it. i fixed the puller and left pressure on the head. i used lots of penatrating oil and heat around the studs. i took my time and i got so mad i walked away. don't take a hammer to it take your time. when you get mad walk away

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Use the rope trick, with #1 and #4 pistons down push 12 feet of 1/2 poly rope on top of the piston. You’ll need to use a stiff wire to push the rope over the pistons. Turn the engine over by hand compressing the rope, put a socket over the crank nut and then an extension and long breaker bar turn the engine. Don’t use the starter it has to much torque and you might bend a connecting rod .

will not work on some engines, i think its a bad idea

[john in illinois]

X 2

John

[BillCNC]

I'm pulling the engine today and will deal with the one remaining stud and the two that broke once the engine is removed.

I have gone through one can of Liquid Wrench and one can of PB Blaster and about 4oz of Acetone and trans fluid mix. I have noticed that most of the studs ends that are in the block have come out dry. The penetrant oil isn't penetrating very well. The last two studs were removed by heating the studs to glowing red, once mostly cooled, I put candle wax to the studs and tapped with a hammer as it melted. Those threads were 3/4 covered in wax.

Regards
Bill