Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

[JSeery]

If it has never had the casting sand removed you just would not believe how much of it there is in there!!! It is mostly around the rear cylinders (at least on mine). It really is unbelievable. It takes several instruments of mass-destruction to get at it, but well worth the effort. However no idea how you could do it without the block being out of the car. On the engine stand I work on it with wire, long drill bits, etc. and then turn it over ever so often and blow it out. Then worked on it some more. Ended up with quite a pile on the floor.

[Terry,OH]

For my 34 I removed the oil pan and found one of the welsh plugs to be leaking (rusted through) so I removed all four and with the oil pan off, I put a piece of plastic over the crank area and flushed with water through the water pumps as well as the lower mounts and used wire in the rear welsh plug holes to remove build up and foundry sand. I got a couple of cups of junk out of the rear plug holes replaced the welsh plugs and assembled the clean pan.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Not going to remove engine at this time, told that it was rebuild in late 70's and early 80's. I do have all the old pistons, lifters and boxes of old engine parts. Just in 20's to low 30's here now, I will wait and maybe catch a warmer day before the flush. ( warm day for Ralph)
Might make some blanking plates and put vinegar in block to soak. Hope when engine was done that they cleaned up/out, again not a running hot problem, just parade/idle, think the radiator cleaning and new pumps will cure!! Will catch the material from block when I do flush. Thank you, and as always Merry Christmas to all.

[RalphG]

And a page from the 1939 Mercury reference book showing correct placement of the bumper jack. It always intrigued me how the jack could grip on a smooth steel post but it works. I've lost/misplaced the base from mine.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks RalphG, great information,

[Terry,OH]

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Note the shape of the receiver for the jack handle on RalphG's jack is flat rectangular and not round, this is the typical of the Ford style jack 37-41. An observation on RalphG's jack there is just one locking collar on the shaft extending out just above the handle receiver. This style was changed to two collars next to each other somewhere around 1938. The length of the round shaft was increased in 41. This may or may not be the style of jack used in the LZ in 1939???

[Bruce in southern OH]

Terry, found this on Ebay this morning:

COMPLETE AND MINT ORIGINAL 1937 TO 1939 LINCOLN ZEPHYR BUMPER JACK SHOWN. IT HAS NOT BEEN TOUCHED AND IS EXACTLY AS REMOVED FROM THE TRUNK OF A NICE ORIGINAL CAR. IT HAS MUCH OF THE ORIGINAL GREEN FINISH ON ALL THESE PIECES. IT WAS MADE FOR FORD BY AUTO SPECIALTIES COMPANY OF MICHIGAN AND HAS LINCOLN PART NUMBER 86H-17080. IT INCLUDES THE ORIGINAL HANDLE 86H-17081 AND THE ORIGINAL BASE WHICH IS 86H-17088. IT IS IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION . IMPORTANT WARNING: THESE EARLY FRICTION JACKS ARE NOT SAFE TO USE TO LIFT YOUR CAR. IT SHOULD BE USED FOR DISPLAY ONLY. 151517606908

I now know I have the slick rod handle, found in car, will have to find it again, do not have the base, continue looking, thanks for info, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Found the slick rod, wire brushed with electric motor wire wheel, found no numbers, I did spray with Liquid Wrench and it does work up and release lever lets it come back down.
.

.

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[RalphG]

Hopefully a better view of the actual jack I have with my 39 Deluxe here.

[Terry,OH]

I viewed the ebay ad and if the jack is what they think, then it appears the Lincoln used the round receiver for their jack and not the rectangular receiver. .

[Terry,OH]

Got the base?? They are hard to find

[Bruce in southern OH]

No base, I would think over the years after having a flat tire along the side of a road, everyone mad or dark rainy night that a lot of the jack parts are long lost. I still after 6 months, looking at all the parts boxes I got with car find items(after someone on the barn says do you have this ). I can make a plate with a hole for rod if I need to ( take a later base plate and weld in a sleeve, machine shop piece ) could be my first project on lathe ? Solid stock with hole drilled in it for jack rod. thanks Terry,OH

[BILL WZOREK]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

No base, I would think over the years after having a flat tire along the side of a road, everyone mad or dark rainy night that a lot of the jack parts are long lost. I still after 6 months, looking at all the parts boxes I got with car find items(after someone on the barn says do you have this ). I can make a plate with a hole for rod if I need to ( take a later base plate and weld in a sleeve, machine shop piece ) could be my first project on lathe ? Solid stock with hole drilled in it for jack rod. thanks Terry,OH

Bruce :

Go ahead and do that ?
It is the best way to find one in you stash
or have some one come forward with any original one.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bill, the original base on ebay looks military, maybe because of old green paint, thanks Bruce
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http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFg3MjA=/z/W1IAAOSwofxUkObs/$_57.JPG
.
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If you click on JPG it will appear?

[Terry,OH]

Around 1940 most of the jacks and bases were green in color. The green does resemble military O.D. maybe because of the flat finish to the paint. IMO don't bother making a base for the jack, if you can find an original grab it but your not going to use the jack even if you have a flat (Very Dangerous) Even Lin Stacey who sells original tools and kits includes a legal release form with a purchase. Here is a photo of a Ford jack base.

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce the point I was TRYING to make is if you go to all the work and make one you will find the lost one or some one will give you one / at least that is how it happens for me.

[Bruce in southern OH]

It has been awhile, received my Two water pumps back today, can start the install soon:
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New rebuilt water pumps
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Old pumps, before sent off
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[Ken/Alabama]

Dont forget to fill them with oil!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, I removed the fill tube stems so I could get to the one bolt on each water pump in block to remove. Thought stems threaded in but found they were just a press in snug fit, will have to find away to install with out damaging the oil fill stem spring cap. I asked "Skip" if the rebuilt water pump used modern bearing that did not need motor oil but he also said I needed to place oil in them, thanks Bruce

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce:
Find Or turn a bolt the proper size to bottom out in the cup. Then with a few taps of a hammer they should push back in. May be a drop of lock tight to make sure they stay put. ( Just a thought )