The Ford Barn

Harold Degand · 03-15-2026, 01:35 PM

Hi. I have a repo swedish steel roadster body from Jocar sitting on an original 1932 frame.

I have a very big gap (about 2 in) between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the body.

Rear horns are at the stock location according to the frame diagram.

I need some tips or ideas. Thanks.

petehoovie · 03-15-2026, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

Hi. I have a repo swedish steel roadster body from Jocar sitting on an original 1932 frame.

I have a very big gap (about 2 in) between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the body.

Rear horns are at the stock location according to the frame diagram.

I need some tips or ideas. Thanks.

Karl Wescott · 03-15-2026, 06:29 PM

That is (imho) too big of a gap. Obvious issue is either the floor is installed in the body too low OR the rear section of the frame has drooped over the years. First check the frame a: this happens a lot, and b: the frame is easiest to measure and correct.

Our frame diagram http://www.wescottsauto.com/Informat...iagram1932.pdf should be a great help. Its not accurate to a gnats eyebrow hair in all respects but has proven to be close enough for people to assemble a bunch of very nice fitting cars.

The key measurement in this case is the droop of the section of the frame from the axle back.

ps. on the frame diagram feel free to copy, use, expand, shrink, give copies to friends at no charge. The only things I ask is do not sell copies, or call it your own. Any errors are MINE!

Karl

Ronnieroadster · 03-15-2026, 08:49 PM

From what I see the floor pan and sub rails are the cause as Karl wrote above. To close that gap you need to channel the body over the frame the distance needed. If the body is built like the original the sub rails are a substantial structure to try to modify. Or build a thin lower rear body pan extension to reduce the gap.
Ronnieroadster

deuce lover · 03-16-2026, 01:22 AM

Are those bodies they build fitted to an original frame ?

Harold Degand · 03-16-2026, 01:25 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Are those bodies they build fitted to an original frame ?

I don’t know what kind of jig they use to build those bodies.
Several bodies owners reported the same issue.

glennpm · 03-16-2026, 06:48 AM

Take a look at Neals' "32 5W Build - The $4K Swapmeet Body / The Old Chrome Coupe". He heated and bent the rear frame horns to reduce the gap.

http://https://www.jalopyjournal.com...#post-15279164

32phil · 03-16-2026, 09:11 AM

The first thing to do is to check to make sure the body/subrails are in the correct location to each other. If not they must be corrected first.
I have dealt with several 32 original frame/bodies that have had this problem.
In all cases the problem is caused by the rear frame horns have been bent down due to a rear end collision. I had one that was only bent down on the driver's side with the right side being bent down only slightly.
At the center of the rear panel, you should have about 3/8" gap between the top of the gas tank and the bottom of the rear panel. Make sure the body is bolted down and shimmed properly and the gas tank is shimmed properly as well.
Look for tell-tale bulges on the side of the rails at the kick up This is evidence of the rails being forced down. The rails should be perfectly flat along the side at the kick up.

Harold Degand · 03-16-2026, 11:33 AM

The distance between the end of the horns is correct on the left side according to the diagram.
The right side is a little bit less. About 2in. instead of 2 1/4.

Thanks for your help.

petehoovie · 03-16-2026, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

The distance between the end of the horns is correct on the left side according to the diagram.
The right side is a little bit less. About 2in. instead of 2 1/4.

Thanks for your help.

PeteVS · 03-16-2026, 12:20 PM

Just off the top of my head, if the fame horns are going to be covered by those "frame horn cover pieces", it might be possible to shim the tank up. (Probably a bad suggestion.)

glennpm · 03-16-2026, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

That is (imho) too big of a gap. Obvious issue is either the floor is installed in the body too low OR the rear section of the frame has drooped over the years. First check the frame a: this happens a lot, and b: the frame is easiest to measure and correct.Karl

Please post side view pictures showing how the rest of the body sits on the frame. This will tell us whether the whole body to sub-frame is off or what else may be off.

kurt v · 03-16-2026, 12:35 PM

If this is a known problem with the body builder , can they tell you how to fix it ?

glennpm · 03-16-2026, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Just off the top of my head, if the fame horns are going to be covered by those "frame horn cover pieces", it might be possible to shim the tank up. (Probably a bad suggestion.)

If this 32 will have fenders, the rears bolt to the body and the frame and at the front bottom edges, to the running boards; so big issues there.

Karl Wescott · 03-16-2026, 06:50 PM

Photos of my roadster (Wescott body, Brizio chassis, Rock Valley stainless fuel tank). This might give a clue as to what is going on if the sill is too low.

petehoovie · 03-16-2026, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

Photos of my roadster (Wescott body, Brizio chassis, Rock Valley stainless fuel tank). This might give a clue as to what is going on if the sill is too low.

Harold Degand · 03-17-2026, 12:00 AM

The firewall is bolted to the body. Doesn’t touch the frame.

Harold Degand · 03-17-2026, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kurt v

If this is a known problem with the body builder , can they tell you how to fix it ?

The last mail I sent was spicy because disappointed and frustrated.
Don’t want to contact them again.

petehoovie · 03-17-2026, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

The firewall is bolted to the body. Doesn’t touch the frame.

alchemy · 03-17-2026, 02:13 AM

The gap at the rear mount hole in the subframe looks about right. The firewall welting pad is supposed to be slightly thicker than the welting that runs under the rest of the subframe. So other than some minor shimming needed, I think your problem is in the outer sheetmetal, not the subframe shape. Maybe all the outer sheetmetal needs to be tilted down towards the back.

That sounds like a ton of work. I highly suggest fitting a fender to the body and frame before going any further. If the car is a hot rod, the extra work might not be worth the squeeze.

03-15-2026, 06:29 PM	#3
Karl Wescott Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,662	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body That is (imho) too big of a gap. Obvious issue is either the floor is installed in the body too low OR the rear section of the frame has drooped over the years. First check the frame a: this happens a lot, and b: the frame is easiest to measure and correct. Our frame diagram http://www.wescottsauto.com/Informat...iagram1932.pdf should be a great help. Its not accurate to a gnats eyebrow hair in all respects but has proven to be close enough for people to assemble a bunch of very nice fitting cars. The key measurement in this case is the droop of the section of the frame from the axle back. ps. on the frame diagram feel free to copy, use, expand, shrink, give copies to friends at no charge. The only things I ask is do not sell copies, or call it your own. Any errors are MINE! Karl

03-15-2026, 08:49 PM	#4
Ronnieroadster Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: East Coast in CT Posts: 1,778	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body From what I see the floor pan and sub rails are the cause as Karl wrote above. To close that gap you need to channel the body over the frame the distance needed. If the body is built like the original the sub rails are a substantial structure to try to modify. Or build a thin lower rear body pan extension to reduce the gap. Ronnieroadster __________________ I use the F word a lot no not that word these words Flathead, Focus and Finish "Life Member of the Bonneville 200 MPH Club using a Ford Flathead block First Ford Flathead bodied roadster to run 200 MPH Record July 13, 2018 LTA timing association 200.921 First Ford flathead roadster to run 200 MPH at Bonneville Salt Flats setting the record August 7th 2021 at 205.744 MPH reset the record in 2024 to 211.830 running to mile four. Top speed 2024 mile five 220.672 exit speed 221.587

03-16-2026, 01:22 AM	#5
deuce lover Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rockwall TX Posts: 6,018	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body Are those bodies they build fitted to an original frame ?

03-16-2026, 06:48 AM	#7
glennpm Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Mid-Coast Maine Posts: 3,346	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body Take a look at Neals' "32 5W Build - The $4K Swapmeet Body / The Old Chrome Coupe". He heated and bent the rear frame horns to reduce the gap. http://https://www.jalopyjournal.com...#post-15279164 __________________ Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford

03-16-2026, 09:11 AM	#8
32phil Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Montgomery, NY & Port St. Lucie Florida Posts: 991	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body The first thing to do is to check to make sure the body/subrails are in the correct location to each other. If not they must be corrected first. I have dealt with several 32 original frame/bodies that have had this problem. In all cases the problem is caused by the rear frame horns have been bent down due to a rear end collision. I had one that was only bent down on the driver's side with the right side being bent down only slightly. At the center of the rear panel, you should have about 3/8" gap between the top of the gas tank and the bottom of the rear panel. Make sure the body is bolted down and shimmed properly and the gas tank is shimmed properly as well. Look for tell-tale bulges on the side of the rails at the kick up This is evidence of the rails being forced down. The rails should be perfectly flat along the side at the kick up. __________________ Early Ford Lock & Key Service http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46583 Last edited by 32phil; 03-16-2026 at 09:20 AM. Reason: more info

03-16-2026, 12:20 PM	#11
PeteVS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: FP, NJ Posts: 2,828	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body Just off the top of my head, if the fame horns are going to be covered by those "frame horn cover pieces", it might be possible to shim the tank up. (Probably a bad suggestion.) __________________ Don't never get rid of nuthin!

03-16-2026, 12:35 PM	#13
kurt v Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: summerton, sc Posts: 544	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body If this is a known problem with the body builder , can they tell you how to fix it ?

03-17-2026, 02:13 AM	#20
alchemy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: middle of Iowa Posts: 1,001	Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body The gap at the rear mount hole in the subframe looks about right. The firewall welting pad is supposed to be slightly thicker than the welting that runs under the rest of the subframe. So other than some minor shimming needed, I think your problem is in the outer sheetmetal, not the subframe shape. Maybe all the outer sheetmetal needs to be tilted down towards the back. That sounds like a ton of work. I highly suggest fitting a fender to the body and frame before going any further. If the car is a hot rod, the extra work might not be worth the squeeze.