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07-14-2016, 06:34 AM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Aussie 47 mercury
G'day fellas, I'm new on ford barn. Ive been searching the net for info to help my mercury resto! I have a 1947 merc fordor. Here in australia the fordor's and a handful of local built utes were all that was on offer and there ain't much info on the imported cars. It is a Aussie delivered car, from what I've reserched, shipped over new from Canada. They must have been delivered here incomplete and finished here as all upholstery, window winder mecanism and interior handles are quite different to the US cars. The aussie cars had 1940 dove tails for the doors and the tool compartment in the trunk floor ran right through from 41 til the last 48. All right hand drive cars retained a RH version of the 41 dash in both merc and fords right up to 1948. Its been a learning curve when ordering bits for 47 and things arent the same! Especially dash bits!
We are almost ready for paint and getting chassis ready to refit. My dad brought the car in around 1969, it was then fitted with a Y block 272, 3speed man and cusso diff. Dad ran it around for 6-7 years then pulled it down to rebuild....... It sat in the shed now for 40 years and I talked him into a rebuild. We decided to put it back to original and have dug out 4 flathead engines dads had in the shed for as long and wondering what is a correct engine? We have 2 engines with C69A raised on top of the bellhousing. One engine has just a 1 on the bellhousing and the last has 19A. I've removed the heads on both 69A engines, both are standard bore But one has a full set of sleeves and has a plaque attatched saying its a ford australia rebuild with 8BA crank rods and valve gear. No1 and no 5 very very rusty bores. The other is very rusty in the valley, standard crank/ rods and mushroon valves. all valve springs are caked in rusty mud! Just wondering what else to look for to decide on which to rebuild? The other two i havent remover heads yet. Dads pretty sure they are before 41. Any advece on the project would be greatly appreciated. Anyway, been a fun journey so far |
07-14-2016, 07:46 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 636
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Welcome to Ford Barn.
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07-14-2016, 08:07 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hampshire, Illinois
Posts: 392
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Welcome to the Barn.
We also have 1947 Mercurys, 1 U.S.made, 1 Canadian. Good luck to you. Bob-Hampshire, Illinois.USA |
07-14-2016, 08:32 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 2,656
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Welcome to the Ford Barn!
Got any pictures? A friend of mine has a 47 Merc, I'm curious of the differences. |
07-14-2016, 08:42 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,462
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Either of the C69A engines seem like likely candidates. You may have to bore cylinders or replace sleeves on either one. I'd just pick the one that might take the least amount of work and start in. If the first one has cracks or any other major repair problems then go on to the next one. Many of the Canadian engines have insert rod bearings for one reason or another. Parts for those might be less expensive and easier to source for you. They should be cleaned & de-rusted as best you can. They tend to have core sand and wire inside the water jackets so all that can be removed should be. Pressure testing the block is the best way to check for cracks. Magna-flux only finds cracks in areas that are accessible. The crank will need to be measured for wear and ground to next under size available if necessary. Many of the 8BA parts can be interchanged in the right combinations and visa versa.
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07-14-2016, 09:31 PM | #6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
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Apart from the tool box going til 48 and Phillips head screws weren't used until 49 it's all small stuff. Our trunks have rounded corners. 46 47 Aussie were the same as far as badging, trim and painted grill as the US 46. Aussie 48 was the same as US 47 - 48.although I've found a 47 car with chrome grill surround and the three trim pieces the owner swears it is ment to be like it! We have a complete 48 super deluxe parts car that tells us alot too |
07-15-2016, 01:49 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lower Hutt , New Zealand
Posts: 2,126
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
I had a C69A in my 46 business cpe which is now long gone. It was originally a c59A car.
The 69A is a good engine. It is a C59a style flat head but like you said most if not all came with 8BA type internals. You must remember in 1948 the 8BA style engine was being put in the new Bonus truck while the cars had to wait to 1949 to get the 8BA mill. I think the C69A had insert rid bearings like the 8BA as opposed to the earlier full floaters. Correct me if I'm wrong on anything please. GB
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"you can't make honey out of dog sh*t" "You're a long time looking at the lid" |
07-15-2016, 09:44 PM | #8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Thanks again. Our ford rebuilt 69A has all 8BA crank rods valves, the other has 8BA rods but the full floating bearing. That's as far as we've got. Not sure which crank in this one. Both are locked solid! I've made up a fibreglass tank that fits snug around the block to soak it for a while! Any suggestions what penetrating oil might help?
Thanks again! Will post pics soon! |
07-15-2016, 09:44 PM | #9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Thanks again. Our ford rebuilt 69A has all 8BA crank rods valves, the other has 8BA rods but the full floating bearing. That's as far as we've got. Not sure which crank in this one. Both are locked solid! I've made up a fibreglass tank that fits snug around the block to soak it for a while! Any suggestions what penetrating oil might help?
Thanks again! Will post pics soon! |
07-16-2016, 12:40 AM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oxford New Zealand
Posts: 177
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
In my experience I think the insert rod bearings used in the C69A engine were thicker than the 8BA insert bearings and the inside diameter of the C69A rod was greater. C69A insert shells and 8BA insert shells were not inter changeable.Repco made replacement C69A shells but hard to find now.Best way is to use 8BA rods and bearings. Someone else might shed some light on this. Cheers
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07-16-2016, 05:47 AM | #11 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Thanks Geoff, I will get these engines apart and see what I've got. One other funny thing, I spent weeks soaking, heating and slowly got head studs out of one. Unfortunately broke 4. Still figuring out how to get them out!
The other 69a every head stud just undid with the nuts! Just wondering if this is a concern? When about halfway out some studs felt loose, even a bit wobbly. |
07-17-2016, 04:40 AM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oxford New Zealand
Posts: 177
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Possibly someone has run a UNC tap into the block.The original threads were slightly under size to form a tight fit on the stud. Cheers
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10-08-2016, 11:00 PM | #13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Gday guys, had a break and now back on to it.
Problem, the C69A we were looking to rebuild for the merc was looking good! Standard bore, all studs out, no visible crack as yet! One night dad had a mate over wuth the oxy and cut through the seised up valves and with his valve removing tool and just not thinking he punched through a water jack hole! Is this a dead block now or is there a way to fix it?? Thanks for any advice Dan. |
10-09-2016, 12:59 AM | #14 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napier, New Zealand
Posts: 2,001
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
My C59A had thick inserts (not thin 8BA type) and came from a Canadian built '47 fordor. I couldn't find replacement shells, so had to change to floaters.
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10-09-2016, 02:00 AM | #15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 4,224
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Geoff,just been through the C69A rod and bearing saga,my advice is to use 8ba rods and inserts,I only found out after resizing the C69 rods,
Lawrie |
10-09-2016, 06:13 AM | #16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 10,377
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Welcome to Ford Barn. I know that you didn't ask this question, but all Australian assembled 1946 to 1948 Mercurys came from the Ford Factory with Ford rear bumpers and over riders/bumper guards like the example pictured above. Why Ford Australia did this is a mystery. The front over riders/bumper guards are also off the 46 Ford. Even the 1948 Ford got the carry-over old style 1946 Ford over riders/bumper guards? |
10-09-2016, 09:48 AM | #17 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Texas
Posts: 1,646
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
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10-09-2016, 05:12 PM | #18 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Thanks for the replys guys. I've found s cast iron repairer local to me I will have a chat with.
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10-09-2016, 05:16 PM | #19 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: King valley Victoria Australia
Posts: 10
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
Thanks mercman, I've read a few of your posts and been great to read. Dad is very passionate about his merc. Found a photo of him standing alongside dated 1968 so it's been his pride for all this time. Very interesting all the difference between Aussie cars and US cars.
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10-10-2016, 10:03 AM | #20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,462
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Re: Aussie 47 mercury
I would braze that with oxy/acetylene and carefully contour it back down to level. If it warps during the process, it would need the deck faced enough to straighten it back flat. It can be welded too but the block will have to be pre-heated & carefully cooled back down during the process. In either case, it may need the deck surfaced a bit. The main thing is that the outer edge of the head gasket will need to seal against a wider surface than what's left there now.
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