Metal valve stem 1933-34 Help!

[fourfords]

Help!

I purchased new inner tubes with metal valve stems. No one seems to understand my problem. (Other than me being an appearent moron)

1933-1934 wheels have an offset hole in which the metal valve stem goes through the rim. The BRIDGE WASHER that is included with the valve hardware is for a Model A type of install. That is, the Model A BRIDGE WASHER is in-line with the wheel to stablize the metal valve stem. The 1933-34's are not. The inner tubes are correctly offset.

Is there someone or a company who has, or makes this correct bridge washer??

CAN ANYONE HELP ME???

[DavidG]

It sounds like you were sold the wrong bridge washers with wide tips rather than original tapered tips as shown below.

[fourfords]

Thank you,

What do these "Original Tapered Bridge Washers look like?

[DavidG]

All three original suppliers' washers are shown in the photo. From left to right they are: Bridgeport, Dill, and Schrader.

[fourfords]

Sorry, but the hole on these Bridge Washers you were kind enough to post are centered. and would fit a Model A Ford just great because the hole in the rim of Model A Ford's are centered on the rim.
How do they accept an offset metal valve stem that goes through the offset hole in the 17" 1933 wheel?

[fourfords]

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I have no idea. I'm wondering if they even came with a bridge washer. No one seems to understand. Here's some photos to help illustrate if I can.

OK, Picture shows the valve stem on the shoulder of the wheel. Picture 2 shows a model A wheel. note that the valve hole is centered. picture 3, the bridge washer has a hole that is centered.

There is no way I can see the model A hardware will fit on this 1933 Ford wheel. My question: where can I locate the correct bridge washer for the 1933 ford?

[DavidG]

I've successfully used the bridge washers shown in my photo on at least ten different '32s and '33s, all of which have the same rim/valve stem location/configuration as the wheel in your photo. When installed, the washer ends nest in the corner of the rim on each side of the valve stem. I'm pretty sure that they are correct for the application in question.

[fourfords]

If I put the Bridge Washer on the shoulder and line it up with the offset metal valve stem, the Bridge washer's edge will be protuding upward therefor creating a situation where that edge will chafe and damage the tube under pressure.

Words do not seem to work here. If you would be kind enough post step by step pictures of the actual installation and actual proximity of the hardware, That would really help.

[Steve Staysko]

Cut the rubber valve stem off just a little above the tube and use a wire brush on a bench grinder and carefully smooth it off to the surrounding surface of the inner tube. Elongate the hole in the inner tube with your fingers and insert the round end of the base of the Schrader valve stem into the inner tube hole. I use a little rubber cement on the outside of inner tube and then install the bridge washer and nut. The bridge washer bent ends should be pointing upwards away from the inner tube. I then hold the bridge washer assembly in a vice and then tighten up the nut. The bridge washer should be in line with the tube. The bridge washer is on the outside of the inner tube and seals the inner tube around the valve stem. The bridge washer will not chafe and damage the inner tube because the outside metal edges of the bridge washer contacts the inside of the wheels rim and there is no rubber inner tube in-between the bridge washer and the rim.

[DavidG]

As Steve indicated, the bent ends or wings face outward away from the inner tube, not inward toward the inner tube. The risk of the contact between the washer and the tube is virtually zero.

The bridge washer used with the Model A rim shown in your photo has a much broader foot where it contacts the rim than the bridge washers in my photo.

Steve's comments apply equally to inner tubes where the metal valve stems are already installed.

[FL&WVMIKE]

When installing the rubber to the metal, you are better off to NOT use any sealant. The sealant will eventually fail, or dry out, causing a leak. The clean metal to rubber seal will last as long as the componants.
I have had non-leaking valves, since the middle 60s on my Model "A" Ford.
MIKE (mikeburch)

[fourfords]

Thanks fellas, I seem to be missing the mark. I already have the inner tubes with the correct offset metal valve stem. That is not the problem. The hole for the valve to to go through the 1933(and '34) wheel is offset. NOT inline like the Model A. Therefore, the Bridge Washer that some of you say will fit the '33 WILL NOT FIT. The Bridge Washer shown in the above photos fit the Model A's centered valve stem hole.

Is it possible that Henry Ford decided to discontinue any Bridge Washer for 1933?? It doesn't make sense to have a metal valve stem unstablized without some type of Bridge Washer... But this would explain why no one at Schrader, Lucas Tire, V8 Ford Club, and all of the Early Ford Guru's are unable to shed any light to this issue.

If someone has ANY knowledge of how to properly install the tube, I am ALL Ears.
Many thanks!!

I can't wait to install my inner tubes with metal valve stems on my car. I don't want to ruin perfectly good parts because I'm ignorant of the nuances of this 1933 passenger Ford

[FrankWest]

I ordered a new innertube for my spare tire From MAC's And it came with s rubber stem and get this a brass pointed cap! The cap looks antique. From this discussion I see that the original tubes back in 1933 had metal stems and not rubber ones. Do any suppliers have inner tubes with those metal stems or is that a build your own item?

[woodiewagon46]

Mike, the bridge washer in the original type tube was used to "bridge" the tube nut as David G. has posted. I am using the tubes with the stems vulcanized into them also and omitted the bridge washer entirely and have never had a problem.

[DavidG]

One drawback to leaving off the bridge washer for someone concerned with V-8 Club judging would be that the valves would protrude more than the originals and some eagle-eyed judge might notice that.

Frank,
Coker, Lucas, and Universal all sell tubes with the metal stems vulcanized to the tube.

[Milt K from Pa]

Like woodie wagon above, I also omitted the bridge washer and the fit was great. They're on my '34, no way to know they're not there. Putting them in would create more problems than leaving them out

Milt K from Pa

[DavidG]

Milt,

With all due respect, given that Ford sold a couple million cars and commercial vehicles with the bridge washers attached (five or six per vehicle), it would seem that they did not foresee the problems that you envision. Nor have I encountered any by using them in all of my '32-'34 restorations both with vulcanized stems and original stems.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by DavidG

One drawback to leaving off the bridge washer for someone concerned with V-8 Club judging would be that the valves would protrude more than the originals and some eagle-eyed judge might notice that.

Frank,
Coker, Lucas, and Universal all sell tubes with the metal stems vulcanized to the tube.

Thanks David.