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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
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We have the gas sender out of of our '35. We want to clean it out before reinstalling it. We were thinking of soaking it in a solvent. Any suggestions on how we we should go about cleaning it out? Thanks Mike
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,140
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I soaked the temperature sender I fixed in Evaporust to get rid of the corrosion. It worked after that and a compressed air dry. I would imagine that a fuel sender might have a different problem, but I would give the one pictured in post #11 in the earlier thread the Evaporust treatment first.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348263 |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,418
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Very similar experience to Tubman only with Rust 911. First of all I use this product a lot to include soaking blocks in. Gas tank the tank on my very low mileage HD looked like something growing in it to include major rust all hoses destroyed factory coating coming off fuel pump gauge assembly junk. I poured out contents then delicately filled with Rust 911 mixture. Let it set overnight then drained out and pressure washed. Inside of tank was perfectly clean with zero rust or loose coating. I then threw the old fuel pump in the 911 It now works perfectly as a spare. It also cleaned my blocked injectors. It’s all I use for gas tank cleaner now.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rockwall TX
Posts: 6,018
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Years ago I have used the Carb cleaner that NAPA sells or sold.It is the gallon can with the basket in it. I now use an Ultrasound machine bought off Amazon.Make sure you buy the correct solution.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,156
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'35 hydrostatic tank unit is made out of brass, copper, solder, etc; guessing acid stuff like Evaporust and similar products would not react well with it. Carb cleaner, lacquer thinner, or similar would be better.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,394
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,418
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Evaporust and Rust 911 are not acids and won’t harm copper brass solder etc. Infact Rusty 911 is Biodegradable and way more environmentally friendly than any highly toxic product like carb cleaner, lacquer thinner or similar product and will not get ever close to cleaning gas tanks as Rust 911. I personally have tried them all to include Muratic acid. Denatured alcohol would be my second choice.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,140
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For the record, Evaporust is not an acid; it works by a process called chellation. In any event, you are correct in that it would not work in this case, as its primary use is to remove rust (hence the name) from ferrous metals.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
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Thank guys for your responses and suggestions. We are leaning towards soaking the gas tank sender in lacquer thinner , rinsing it off and blow it out with air. Do not want to damage the brass on sender with the Evaporust. Mike
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,418
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Mike. I have to ask. Did you not read my posts??? Or Tubmans?
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
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Tubman, I did read your posts. The word acid draws a red flag to me. I want to be on the safe side when dealing with 80 year old parts. Thanks for your comments.
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Corsicana, Texas
Posts: 1,551
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Just a bit of clarification needed...Is the part rusty or does it need old fuel residue removed? If the part needs to have varnish or residue from old rotten fuel removed, spray it down with ordinary oven cleaner and let it work for several hours. It works best if the part is warm. After giving it time to dissolve the gunk, just rinse it with water and it should look like new again. If the grime is heavy, it might take a couple of treatments. Follow the directions on the can.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
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The fuel sender, in the tank, is not rusty We just want to clean it out
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,140
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The rule of thumb is to start out with the mildest solution that you think might work, and then go to more and more aggressive methods until you find something that barely works.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hamburg, NY
Posts: 287
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When I cleaned the tank Unit from my 34 last year I used lacquer thinner and a wire brush. It was mostly just a black buildup on the Unit, which is all brass. I used small brushes and wires to try to get what I could in the tubes. Then used compressed air to make sure the tubes and small openings were all clear. Here are before and after photos.
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,645
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Quote:
After |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rockwall TX
Posts: 6,018
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Here after using an ultrasound machine and the correct solution.Then some 0000 steel wool to brighten them up.Brake clean might work also.
The 35 is on the left and 33,34 on the right. Last edited by deuce lover; 04-16-2025 at 07:50 AM. |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,645
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Quote:
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,140
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Looks new!
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
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Wow, I would hate to put it into the gas tank. It looks so good. Thanks for posting it. Mike
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