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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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For the very basic purpose of running an engine on an engine run stand, can I just run a "hot" wire to the left of the ballast resistor and the red wire from the right lug of the ballast resistor to the coil and be done with a basic on off toggle switch on the "hot" lead???? Again, just to test run it, heat cycle it and check it for leaks.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,634
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Yes. The fuse is only used for the lights.
__________________
Alan |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Thanks for the confirmation
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,395
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How are you going to turn the motor off without a switch in the coil circuit?
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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TerryOH
NOTE (In my very first post): "For the very basic purpose of running an engine on an engine run stand, can I just run a "hot" wire to the left of the ballast resistor and the red wire from the right lug of the ballast resistor to the coil and be done with a basic on off toggle switch on the "hot" lead????" Does this not take care of that issue?? OR do I need the more "advanced" set up |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Perry Mo.
Posts: 839
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,395
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Running the wire and power to the resistor and coil is fine to get it started, if the battery is grounded to the frame of the stand but power has to be removed to stop the engine from running. Short of ripping one of the wires off a running engine a switch to open the ignition circuit is prefered. Plus if the engine stalls for any reason the coil need to be de-energized so it does not overheat. You don't have to use an original starter switch, a wall light switch works well.
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