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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mount Holly, NJ
Posts: 65
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Just got my engine back from a full rebuild. I got it installed and am putting all the stuff back on. It's almost time to put some fresh oil in it and start it up. I think before I had it rebuilt I used 20-50. What do you recommend is good for it now. I know there will be a bunch if different opinions but let's hear them all. I did read on here to dump 4 in the pan and one through the dizzy hole. Good info and I will do!
Thanks josh |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bucks Co. Pa
Posts: 632
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Mineral or some other cheap oil for ten hours, then remove it and replace with the 10- 30/40 of your choice.
Terry |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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After probably spending 2500$ (or a lot more), what did the rebuilder suggest??
Paul in CT |
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#4 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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yes ask your builder for warranty purposes
this is off the AER site read #1 http://antiqueenginerebuilding.com/INSTRUCTIONS.html i would change it after giving the engine its initial shake down. personally i do it 2-3 times after a fresh rebuild don't be penny wise //dollar foolish. you'll be surprised whats comes out and don't reuse it, oil is cheaper than engines Last edited by Mitch//pa; 03-20-2014 at 06:21 AM. |
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#5 |
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BANNED
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Vallejo, Ca
Posts: 125
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If you change the oil every 2000 mi or so with detergent type after a few changes the engine will be clean inside. Don't worry about dirt being embedded in the bearings, just change the detergent oil.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: capemaynewjersey
Posts: 653
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#7 |
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Junior Member
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I us Rotella diesel oil cause It has zinc in it to protect
the lead bearings. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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I suggest changing the oil after only 10 - 15 miles to be sure everything from the rebuild is out of the engine and again after 100 miles to be sure. Better safe then sorry and oil is cheap. If you wanted to you could filter it and use is again after the second oil change.
But of course what did the rebuilder tell you?
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Hickory Tavern , SC
Posts: 422
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Oh my.
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mount Holly, NJ
Posts: 65
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I'll give the builder a call today and see what he thinks I should use.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 3,104
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I always suggest the use of any good diesel oil in my rebuilds. I prefer Rotella but Delo or Travelers will do. I have also used Wal-mart brand if it is diesel rated.
__________________
http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/ |
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#12 |
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Member
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mount Holly, NJ
Posts: 65
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Builder said to use whatever weight I prefer as long as it's a non detergent oil. He said that it's not good for the Babbitt it could seperate it from the block or cause it to flake. Ill prob go with a 10-40 weight non detergent.
Now I read in other posts that a lot you you guys use detergent oils???? |
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 40 Mt.Vickery Rd. Southborough,MA 508-460-0733
Posts: 373
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Quote:
Clearly detergent oil doesn't harm babbitt or every one of our engines would be in the do over position and we'd be out of business for recommending it at break in and throughout the life cycle of the engines. Bad information from the rebuilder. That's a warning sign that the babbitt will separate from the block and flake.?? |
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
![]() Tell him that someone you were speaking to called him an idiot for giving that advice and ask him the reason so you can tell that guy off. I'm real interested in hearing his reason. The true story is ALL types of all are used in the model a and none have been proven to be bad for babbitt.
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#16 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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who is the builder since i am local to you
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mount Holly, NJ
Posts: 65
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Newburgh, NY
Posts: 222
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Captain j, I suppose you should go with what your rebuilder recommends as long as you trust him enough to re-rebuild the engine if it fails. This assumes he doesn't put the blame for failure on something other than the rebuild (just being a New Yorker). Regarding detergent vs. non-detergent oils, non-detergents contain NO additives. They are strictly straight mineral oil and that's what Henry (and everybody else) used because that's all there was in 1930. If you choose to use a non-detergent oil, here's what you'll be giving up: Detergent (NOT Lux Liquid! No one puts anything in oil that will wash oil from cylinder walls or other parts. It would be counterproductive and dumb); Dispersant (to keep particles of combustion, sand, and other junk that finds its way into the crankcase from all sorts of sources in suspension); Antiwear agents (to prevent wear); Friction modifiers (to allow sliding surfaces to, well, slide easier); Oxidation inhibitors (to slow down the inevitible process of oil oxidation); Pour depressant (to allow the oil to flow at low temps); Antirust (to mitigate the damage from water that will sneak past the rings on a cold engine and from the atmosphere); and Antifoam (oil is totally useless when it foams, air being a lousy lubricant). Talk with your rebuilder and let him know your concerns. Sounds dangerous to run non-detergent for very long as you will start to develop all the bad stuff mentioned above that detergent oil is designed to prevent. Good luck!
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 3,104
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I don't even recommend non detergent for a 3.5 horse lawnmower! Any builder that thinks his babbitt is going to seperate from the caps don't know how to tin the caps. I agree with J&M, use any detergent oil but diesel is better. It has zddp and other high pressure additives that will help keep your engine running right. If it is good enough to keep a diesel running for 1,000,000 miles it should be great in a Model A.
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http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/ |
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#20 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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Hi Cap,
they are very close to my shop just over the bridge. i deal with alot of local model A things around the community but never heard anything about them good or bad. what kind of warranty comes with it ??? do they do the babbitt in house or farm it out?? |
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