My new 1930 2-dr sedan

[atch]

Wahooooo!!!

I've been working on this deal for three months. Actually the lawyers have been doing the work and I've been twiddling my thumbs. My friend Dick died about 4 months ago. When he was terminally ill he gave instructions to Brigitte as to what to do with his Model A's, Corvette, boat, and a bunch of other man toys. Brigitte knew that I have liked the 2-dr for a long time. After Dick's funeral she contacted me to see if I wanted to buy it. I jumped at the chance. I've been looking for a $6-8K beater/driver 2-dr for several years now. The ones that were priced in what I considered my budget were junk. Some that looked really great in pictures and sounded like the price was right also turned out to be worth way less than the asking price. If you're selling it it's a $10K car; if you're buying the same car it's a $5K car. You all know the drill. Well, Dick had given Brigitte two prices for his stuff. One (retail) if it went to a stranger and a highly discounted price if it went to a friend, especially a MMMARC club member (see further on down). I got the smoking hot buddy price and bought it even though it was WAY nicer and quite a bit more expensive than what I thought I was looking for. I paid for it in early May but had to wait for probate to get the title into Brigitte's name so that she could sell it to me. That culminated yesterday and now it's mine. Title is in my name. Insurance folks have taken pix. I drove it about 50 miles today. Now the world is spinning in greased grooves (bonus points to you if you know what movie that came from).

So I learned a lot today before and while driving it. I now know where both of the fuel valves are. I know where the master electrical shut-off is. I have relearned how to double clutch. It's been over 60 years since I had to do that in the old 1948 3/4 ton Dodge farm truck we had back then. I know where the starter button is. I know that the 40 mph curves you take at 55 in your late model are 30-35 mph curves in a Model A. I know what to do with and how to shift a Mitchell overdrive.

If you're reading this in the model A section of the Ford Barn you undoubtedly know WAY more than I do about Model A's. Before I test drove this thing three months ago I had never driven a Model A. Between that day and today I never had the chance to drive one. I've got a lot to learn. Also you'll notice that I mentioned some things that didn't come on Model A's from the factory. Dick couldn't leave well enough alone. It's also 12V now.

I'll be asking a ton of questions about these cars.

Note that I am this year's president of the Mid Missouri Model A Restorers' Club. That even though I don't know squat about them. I joined the club about 5-6 years ago (before Covid) when I inherited a half-done '31 Model A hot rod project. I thought (correctly) that the club members could give me pointers about the body of the hot rod that needed some attention. As time wore on I got more and more enamored with stock Model A's and decided that I really needed one. It was kind of a bummer following a bunch of "A"s on tours driving a late model. While it was nice to follow along in air-conditioned comfort utilizing the cruise control it just left an empty feeling down inside. Note: I've followed this and other Model A's all over central Missouri in the past few years. Anyway, I've gotten to know the club members and they have become friends. And now I can cruise along in my very own model A.

I'm ecstatic.

When I got the title yesterday I made it TOD (transfer on death) to one of my daughters. I had to cash in some invested money to pay for this. The money is money that Allison would have inherited when I die anyway so basically I bought it with her money. Note: some of you know about Clarence, my 1948 Ford panel truck that I bought it in February of 1973. I spent a wheelbarrow full of money on it recently. Same thing there. It goes to the other daughter when I die and I paid for those improvements the same way. With money that Meredith would have inherited. When she was in high school nearly 30 years ago I let her drive it to school a few times she told me then that she wanted it someday. Well, I consider it hers and the Model A Allison's. They are just letting me drive them while I'm still kicking. They didn't get any say-so in the matter, though. Allison has never seen her Model A but she has seen pix of it. She, her husband, and their two sons are excited about it and someday owning/driving it. We wanted them to come to dinner today and see it but they are at the Wisconsin Dells this week. Her loss. They will see it when they get home.

Anyway, this is my initiation into the Model A world. I'm about to learn what you all have known for a long time. I'll add some pix. Some in front of a friend's shop and a couple beside my house & shop.

First question: it's got those aftermarket hood brackets that allow you to raise either or both sides of the hood and let them sit in the "cradle". Is it detrimental to leave the hood open like that while in the garage? I ask because the electric switch is under the hood on the driver's side and the second gas shut off is under the passenger side hood. If it won't hurt anything I'll just leave the hood propped open when garaged. If it could hurt anything I'll shut it every time when inside.


20250512_105621.jpg

20250512_105712.jpg

20250512_105722.jpg

[CWPASADENA]

Great looking Model A and a Great story.

I know you will take care of it and enjoy it. Tudors are good cars for touring. My first Model A was a '30 Tudor, that was almost 70 years ago. The Model A I currently use for touring is a '30 Tudor.

Good luck,

Chris W.

[nkaminar]

No problem leaving the hoods up. Good luck with your new to you Ford. Nice looking car. The overdrive is a really handy accessory.

[ronn]

good looking car.


I enjoy the chickle.

[old31]

That's an awesome car. Good for you.

The hood will be just fine being up.

[Ayers1]

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Beautiful car! Sounds like you got a great deal! I was going to paint my 2 door the same colors but there's one just like it in the club. Enjoy!

[Fullraceflathead]

Great looking model A. you are a lucky man and both of your daughters are lucky too!!!

[katy]

Originally Posted by ronn

I enjoy the chickle.

?????

[Chuck Dempsey]

NICE CAR! Congrats. No 'bonus points' for me, but DO tell us where the phrase is from when you get a chance...

[Keith True]

Chickle.Chicle drab,the color.I probably spelled it wrong too.Pretty color to me.I don't believe I've ever bought an A that I could drive without a couple of weeks of work first.

[atch]

Originally Posted by Chuck Dempsey

NICE CAR! Congrats. No 'bonus points' for me, but DO tell us where the phrase is from when you get a chance...

Cannery Row. I believe it's the very last line in the movie, spoken by a narrator. Definitely on my list of 50 favorite movies. Watch it if you ever get the chance.

Thanks for all the positive comments. I plan to enjoy this thing to the max and am anxious for the nest Model A tour with my club.

Question #2: On another site someone said I should use ethanol free gas, that the ethanol will eat up parts. Any of you confirm/deny that? b-t-w; I don't trust that other site as much as I trust you Ford Barn folks.

[atch]

Originally Posted by Keith True

Chickle.Chicle drab,the color.I probably spelled it wrong too.Pretty color to me.I don't believe I've ever bought an A that I could drive without a couple of weeks of work first.

The Chickle Drab reference baffled me, too, so I Googled it. One of the results was to a FaceBook post that referenced a MAFCA post and the pic in that post could have been my car other than the "trunk" that Dick added.

[Herb Concord Ca]

In CA that's all you can buy for cars. I have Viton tipped float valves with helper springs, (non-Zenith carbs) so that they won't stick closed. Other than that, I have not had any problems.

[Ayers1]

Originally Posted by Keith True

Chickle.Chicle drab,the color.I probably spelled it wrong too.Pretty color to me.I don't believe I've ever bought an A that I could drive without a couple of weeks of work first.

I believe the colors are Chicle drab and Cobra drab. Correct me if I'm wrong. Love the color combination! I actually understood what he meant.

[Big hammer]

Ethanol gas goes bad very quickly, like one month, it can clog the carburetor, haven’t heard about eating things up ? If you can’t find pure gas make sure to use a fuel stabilizer, MMO (marvel mystery oil) helps ! If out and about and I have to use ethanol gas I make sure to use a stabilizer or MMO when I get home. One outing the ethanol gas that I bought had water in it, gas line dryer added help out in a pinch, MMO when we got home.

Nice looking A !!!! Enjoy the ride !!!

[atch]

Model A update:
Friday I drove it 48 miles; picked it up and took it to the insurance guy to photograph
Saturday I drove it 52 miles; Sherry and I went to Centralia for supper
Today I drove it 64 miles; Sherry and I went to a friend's house to visit

It looks like I'll be finding excuses to drive this thing every day until the new wears off.

In addition to the things I have learned that I mentioned previously today I learned where the light switch is and how to dim the lights. I also learned that the speedometer and fuel gauge don't have lights. If you're going to drive so after dark you need to look at the gas gauge while it's still light outside and make sure you've got enough gas to get to where you're going or at least to a gas station. Speedometer really doesn't matter. Unless you're in a slow speed limit in town it won't go over the speed limit anyway. You just drive it like any old car. If it starts to lug down you downshift. If the engine is getting up there in rpm you upshift. Simple. The aftermarket temp gauge isn't lighted either but so far it's been right on 170° - 175° every time I look at it. I doubt that'll change much, day or night. I found out that there is a shade you can pull down over the rear window. I think that next time I drive it after dark I'll pull it down to keep the headlights of following cars out of my eyes (through the rear-view mirror). There are still two outside mirrors I can use to keep track of other traffic. Before tonight I really didn't realize how nice day/night rearview mirrors are.

Today I got 12.99 mpg. A 1930 Model A tank holds 10 gallons. So it looks like I better be finding a gas station at around 100 miles after fill-up. After a hunnert miles of driving a Model A I'll be needing to get out and walk around. And SWMBO can't go over a hundred miles between potty breaks so if she's with me I'd have to be stopping anyway. And that's at highway speeds in a late model. In a Model A I imagine she'll need to stop every 60-70 miles.

I think that there is going to be something to learn every time I drive it.

At least the temp has been very conducive to driving with windows down and no A/C.

Question: are there really lights in the gauges and I just don't know where the switch is?

[Chris in WNC]

Originally Posted by atch

. no A/C.

Question: are there really lights in the gauges and I just don't know where the switch is?

if you have a round speedometer, the instrument light and switch are hidden up under the dash rail.

if you have an oval speedo the light is that big round thing in the middle of the instrument panel, twist to on/off.

[Bruce of MN]

If you need a dash light:


https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/s...cht=dash+light

[nkaminar]

For the dash lights, the LED's are cooler and take far less current, so if you forget and leave them on they will not drain the battery near as fast. The LED sites have charts that give equivalent part numbers for the LED's if you have a part number for the incandescent bulbs.

[atch]

Originally Posted by Chris in WNC

if you have a round speedometer, the instrument light and switch are hidden up under the dash rail.

if you have an oval speedo the light is that big round thing in the middle of the instrument panel, twist to on/off.

Found it! Round speedo. I would never have found this without your help. THANKS.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Keith True

Chickle.Chicle drab,the color.

Thanks

[atch]

I also see that this car has the (apparently) highly desirable 1-piece 2-blade aluminum fan. Looks a little grungy, but it's there and a magnet doesn't stick to it. Temp consistently stays 170° - 175° according to the aftermarket mechanical temp gauge.

Question: is that normal operating temp? sounds a little cool to me.

[David in San Antonio]

Ethanol is highly hydroscopic , that is, it absorbs water like crazy, even humidity from the air. This can rust the inside of an uncoated Model A fuel tank.
Ethanol does have some upsides. “Dry Gas” is ethanol, which comes in handy if you get some water in the fuel. Adding ethanol allows the water to go through the engine. Another potential benefit of ethanol is that it cools the intake charge, and can boost the anti-knock properties of the fuel, potentially allowing a higher compression ratio.

[1930artdeco]

Atch welcome to slower side of the barn! You have a very nice early late model 30 Tudor. Just want to mess with you a bit. Ford for some weird reason split the splash apron into 2 pieces unlike the 28, 29, late 30 and 31 models. So if you are ever on the lookout for fenders those are the ones to get. They can be made up but it is labor intensive.

As for the fan, as long as it is the reproduction fan you will be fine. 170 is about right maybe a tad cool but for where you live it will save you in the summer. You may want to check out the firewall insulators that you can get from the vendors. They say they work great at lower cabin temps.

Mike

[mercman from oz]

Love your new 1930 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan.
Ford Australia offered Model A Tudor Sedans in 1928 and 1929 only.
Come 1930, and the only body style available were Fordor Sedan, Roadster, Phaeton and Sports Coupe, plus Utes.

[atch]

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Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

...As for the fan, as long as it is the reproduction fan you will be fine. 170 is about right maybe a tad cool but for where you live it will save you in the summer...

Today while on my way into town I got held up at some road construction and had to sit for about ten minutes. Needle got up to about 210 and I was glad it does normally run a bit cool. Since these cars usually only get driven when the weather's warm I guess that's really a good thing.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

Ethanol is highly hydroscopic , that is, it absorbs water like crazy, even humidity from the air. This can rust the inside of an uncoated Model A fuel tank.
Ethanol does have some upsides. “Dry Gas” is ethanol, which comes in handy if you get some water in the fuel. Adding ethanol allows the water to go through the engine. Another potential benefit of ethanol is that it cools the intake charge, and can boost the anti-knock properties of the fuel, potentially allowing a higher compression ratio.

Not meaning to sound like a college lecture, but to help clarify with a more accurate lexicon. I was wondering about the correct usage of the word and found this on the ole interweb...I thought I would post it. Just wanting to help eliminate confusion and misinformation:

"Hygroscopic" and "Hydroscopic" are two terms that can easily be confused due to their phonetic similarities. However, only "Hygroscopic" is the scientifically accepted term, denoting a substance's ability to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding environment. This property is vital in many industrial and scientific applications, such as in the storage of certain chemicals or the design of humidity-sensitive equipment.


On the contrary, "Hydroscopic" is not a recognized term in scientific lexicons. It's often a mispronunciation or misspelling of "Hygroscopic." The prefix "Hygro-" comes from the Greek word for moisture, making "Hygroscopic" a term inherently about moisture absorption. Thus, using "Hydroscopic" instead of "Hygroscopic" is a mistake that can lead to misunderstandings, especially in contexts where the precise meaning is crucial.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

Not meaning to sound like a college lecture, but to help clarify with a more accurate lexicon. I was wondering about the correct usage of the word and found this on the ole interweb...I thought I would post it. Just wanting to help eliminate confusion and misinformation:

"Hygroscopic" and "Hydroscopic" are two terms that can easily be confused due to their phonetic similarities. However, only "Hygroscopic" is the scientifically accepted term, denoting a substance's ability to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding environment. This property is vital in many industrial and scientific applications, such as in the storage of certain chemicals or the design of humidity-sensitive equipment.


On the contrary, "Hydroscopic" is not a recognized term in scientific lexicons. It's often a mispronunciation or misspelling of "Hygroscopic." The prefix "Hygro-" comes from the Greek word for moisture, making "Hygroscopic" a term inherently about moisture absorption. Thus, using "Hydroscopic" instead of "Hygroscopic" is a mistake that can lead to misunderstandings, especially in contexts where the precise meaning is crucial.

Interesting... I can see where a mixup could occur since "Hydro" is usually related to water, as in hydroelectric.

I learned something new.

[Fullraceflathead]

To quote the late great famous Gene Winfield “Everyday is a school day” is very true!!!

[al's28/33]

she's a pretty sedan enjoy it as much as possible.

[BlueSunoco]

atch--- ya done good!

Beautiful car plus you are respecting your buddy! Chicle and Copra look great on Tudors!

A Tudor is a fantastic all-around Model A Ford, they really don't get any better in my mind. Easy to get in and out plus they are pretty warm in cold weather they button up a lot better than an open top car

[atch]

Yeah; I was specifically looking for a 2-dr sedan. I want the grandkids to be able to ride in the back and I'm pretty sure that none of the three daughters would let their offspring ride in a rumble seat. And I didn't want a 4-door car.

I found several nice coupes but see above.

In one week I've put 240 miles on it. For some of you that's just a day or two. For many of the members of the Model A club I belong to that's 6 months of driving.

I have gotten pretty adept at double clutching by now. Down-shifting still gets me. What's your secret to down-shifting without grinding gears?

If I had never had an A with a Mitchell overdrive I wouldn't miss it. BUT, since this is my first Model A and I'm getting used to it I'd never have another one without it. Depending on the terrain I'm driving in my shift pattern usually is 1-low; 2-low; 2-high; 3-low; 3-high. If I start up a hill I shift to 3-low. I hate it when the hill requires me to downshift further. Again see above.

I downloaded a Model A lubrication chart. If I can stay out of the driver's seat long enough I'll ensure that everything is greased up. Knowing my friend Dick, who owned this car for many years, I doubt if it needs anything yet. He kept all of his toys in top-notch condition. I found out last night that his pristine 1931 coupe was purchased by another car club member, so both of his Model A's will stay in the same circle of friends. Who knows where the Corvette and boat went to? I really don't care much, though.

Thank you all who have responded here with advice. I really appreciate it.

I do think I'll set the idle up a tad, as after it's warmed up it idles down so slow, at stop signs and such, that it sometimes dies. I've gotten to where I use the throttle on the steering column to prevent that. Any advice or information on this?

[fourfords]

Chickle and Copra Drab

[mercman from oz]

2 Blade Aluminium Fan Blade

[Fullraceflathead]

When down shifting you need to rev it up a little bit it takes some practice but if you increase the RPMS just a little bit it should shift easily when downshifting.

[atch]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

When down shifting you need to rev it up a little bit it takes some practice but if you increase the RPMS just a little bit it should shift easily when downshifting.

I've been trying that; but obviously I need to try harder.


Thanks.

fwiw; You might have read above that my daughter's name is now TOD (Transfer On Death) on the title but she's never seen it. She and her family are coming to dinner this evening and I've got it outside prominently displayed for when they get here.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by atch

I've been trying that; but obviously I need to try harder.


Thanks.

fwiw; You might have read above that my daughter's name is now TOD (Transfer On Death) on the title but she's never seen it. She and her family are coming to dinner this evening and I've got it outside prominently displayed for when they get here.

Hi Mike. Great car! You are probably aware, but when downshifting the engine needs to be sped up while the trans is in neutral and your foot is off the clutch during the double clutch process. Try to imagine what rpm the engine will be in the gear you're shifting into.

[Robert/Texas]

I bet that I'm the first one on this forum to ride in a 1930 Model A 2-door. My father bought his new. It was black and was his first car. In 1934 I came from the hospital in it. He hated the car because it was a 2-door and in 1937 he traded it in for a new Plymouth 4-door and never bought anything but 4-door cars again.

[atch]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

Hi Mike. Great car! You are probably aware, but when downshifting the engine needs to be sped up while the trans is in neutral and your foot is off the clutch during the double clutch process. Try to imagine what rpm the engine will be in the gear you're shifting into.

Yep. I'll keep trying. I always thought of myself as well coordinated hand/eye and pretty much mechanically inclined. Guess I was fooling myself.

Like I said; I'll keep trying. I'm thinking lots of folks less coordinated than me have mastered this. Someday I will also.

[atch]

For everyone who has commented positively on this car A BIG THANK YOU. I had known this car for a long time and my friend Dick who owned it for nearly 25 years kept all of his toys (multiple Model A's, Corvette, boat, etc.) in immaculate condition and maintained to the Nth degree. I'm exceptionally fortunate to become the new caretaker of this car. I'd rather Dick was still alive and enjoying it himself, but since that's not possible I'm glad I have it.

The state of Missouri requires vehicles licensed as historic to carry a mileage log showing dates, miles, destination, etc. I have Dick's and the precious owner's logs back to sometime in the 1990's. So far I've kept every mile I've driven in a new log. For some reason this never seemed to be very important to me in the 1948 Ford panel truck that I bought in 1973 and for which I got Historic Vehicle license plates in 1976. I think I'll start keeping the log updated in the panel. MO allows unlimited mileage to "educational and/or display" functions and up to 1,000 miles for "personal use." I.e., you can put a thousand miles on it for anything you choose, such as to the grocery store etc. I pretty much am of the opinion, though, that everywhere I go is for "display" purposes.

[Ray in La Mesa]

I've found that when down shifting to second, you need to rev the engine much more than you would expect. Once you do that you can find the sweet spot.

[atch]

Thanks Ray. That's probably what I've been doing wrong.

[atch]

I've about given up on downshifting to first. I'll just come to a stop and then put it in first. Pretty much any time you would downshift to first you're going to stop anyway.

[1930artdeco]

You can shift to first at below 5 MPH if I remember correctly. I just push in the clutch and gently push it into 1st. I let it do it by itself so I don't grind.

Mike

[atch]

Question: what do you use to remove gasoline from cowl when you spill some at the gas station?

Today when I filled this thing up I spilled gas (probably a tablespoon or two) on the cowl/tank top. By the time I got home it had evaporated but now I'd like to wash it off. What do you guys use?

Note: I have no idea what the paint is. I'm sure it has been repainted at some point, but who knows if it was back in the lacquer days, base/clear days, enamel days, etc., etc.

That seldom happens on late model cars, but having the gas cap where it's a bit less handy may pose problems for me down the road; maybe more so than today.

[IDSpud]

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Very nice car!

[nkaminar]

Regarding downshifting: I forget whether your car has a Mitchell overdrive. If it does you can put the overdrive in neutral and then put the transmission in whatever gear you want without double clutching. Then put the overdrive back in gear. The overdrive has synchromesh so it will go in gear easily. Just make sure that the gear you chose is appropriate for the road speed you are going.

[atch]

Originally Posted by IDSpud

Very nice car!

Thanks man. I'm really enjoying it. Put 101 miles on it yesterday going to lunch with some car club members; about 50 miles each way.

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Regarding downshifting: I forget whether your car has a Mitchell overdrive. If it does you can put the overdrive in neutral and then put the transmission in whatever gear you want without double clutching. Then put the overdrive back in gear. The overdrive has synchromesh so it will go in gear easily. Just make sure that the gear you chose is appropriate for the road speed you are going.

It does have a Mitchell OD. I'll have to try this trick.

[1930artdeco]

For downshifting there is only one way to master it-practice, practice, practice!. You will have to drive the car A LOT like take a vacation with it and drive the country roads to the North to cool off and practice revving the engine up and not grinding gears. Everyone does it when they are new to these trannies.

[atch]

I'm getting better at downshifting.

I've now put 420 miles on it between 8/1 and 8/19/2025.

When warmed up if I let it slow down to idle it sometimes dies. I've been (a little at a time) turning the screw on what I'm assuming is the idle set screw at the carb throttle shaft just outside the carb body. Is there anything else I need to be doing? I've been using the throttle at the steering wheel to keep the rpm's up enough to keep it from dying.


b-t-w, here are a few pix I took yesterday in Columbia, Missouri. First is with the Mizzou columns in the background. Second is with Lafferre Hall in the background. That's the Engineering School main building where I was a freshman 56 years ago this week. Third is in front of the gates leading into the estate of Dr. Frank Nifong, a prominent early Columbian.

[TomW]

like it says in the instruction manual - downshift to second without hesitation in neutral.
A quick movement of the lever will work every time! (below 15 mph or so) There is no need to downshift to first - if a model A is moving, second gear will handle it!

[Big hammer]

You need too adjust the idle mixture along with the idle speed, it’s all covered in the owners instruction manual, reproductions manual available from the suppliers ! The manual covers adjusting the idle, shifting the transmission, etc

[atch]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

You need too adjust the idle mixture along with the idle speed, it’s all covered in the owners instruction manual, reproductions manual available from the suppliers ! The manual covers adjusting the idle, shifting the transmission, etc

Thanks. It looks like I have some shopping and studying to do.

[atch]

Is this the one? Dick left this in the car for me.

20250820_141457.jpg

[1930artdeco]

Another thing I do is if I am running my Zenith carb is leave the idle notched up a bit-sounds like you do this already. If not, it will tend to die in hard fast stops as the fuel sloshes away from the jets.

*correction* I leave the idle at the lowest notch and open the GAV a solid 1/4 turn to compensate for this in city driving.

[atch]

Car in front of St. Mary Aldermanbury, a church built in the 1180's in London. Bombed in 1940 only the walls were still standing until 1966 when it was dismantled and reconstructed stone by stone in Fulton, Missouri, near the spot where Winston Churchill first used the term "Iron Curtain."

[atch]

Car in front of an 11' high by 32' long section of the Berlin Wall which formerly stood at or near the Brandenburg Gate. Edwina Sandys, Mr. Churchill's granddaughter, sculpted it into what you see here and it toured eh US. On the 1st anniversary of the fall of the wall, it was permanently installed next to the National Churchill Museum, which is in the basement of St. Mary Aldermanbury.

[atch]

I've taken to turning the fuel off and letting the engine run out of gas when I pull into the garage (our gas contains ethanol). Does anyone else do this? Is this a waste of time?


I've been studying the lubrication chart in the center of the Model "A" Instruction Book that I showed in post #54 above. I'm not opposed to anything it recommends but am curious as to how much of this do you folks actually do?

This recommends changing the oil every 500 miles. I've put 455 miles on the car in the 3 weeks I've owned it so it looks like I need to be ready to change the oil. How often do you folks change your oil?

[1930artdeco]

1) I always shut the tank valve off and run the carb dry when I park her. Either the tank valve and/or the float valve leak. I need to figure out which one.

2) Once a year I lube her up as grease is your friend at keeping parts from not wearing out and having to buy Chinese parts.

3) The oils today are leaps and bounds better, but $40 in oil is cheaper than $4000 in an engine. I change it every summer but then again I am not putting that many miles on her unfortunately. If you went a 1000 I would not be too worried.

Mike

[atch]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

1) I always shut the tank valve off and run the carb dry when I park her. Either the tank valve and/or the float valve leak. I need to figure out which one.

2) Once a year I lube her up as grease is your friend at keeping parts from not wearing out and having to buy Chinese parts.

3) The oils today are leaps and bounds better, but $40 in oil is cheaper than $4000 in an engine. I change it every summer but then again I am not putting that many miles on her unfortunately. If you went a 1000 I would not be too worried.

Mike

Thanks. I'm going to be learning for quite a while and undoubtedly be picking your collective brains all that time.

[atch]

Another (in the line of thousands of) question:

What oil do you folks use?

[nkaminar]

There are a lot of different opinions regarding oil. I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil. It has zinc additive in it that increases engine life.

Whatever oil you decide to use, use a detergent oil. The multiple grade oil will be good for both winter and summer.

If you have an oil filter the oil live will be extended. I go about 2,000 miles. I have a full flow oil filter that filters all the oil. No oil filter then 500 miles is about right.

[atch]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

There are a lot of different opinions regarding oil. I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil. It has zinc additive in it that increases engine life...

That's exactly what I use in my 1948 Ford panel truck (GM crate 350) so using the same in both vehicles eliminates one (small) headache of keeping different products.

Originally Posted by nkaminar

...Whatever oil you decide to use, use a detergent oil. The multiple grade oil will be good for both winter and summer...

Great; see above.

Originally Posted by nkaminar

...If you have an oil filter the oil live will be extended. I go about 2,000 miles. I have a full flow oil filter that filters all the oil. No oil filter then 500 miles is about right.

I don't see an oil filter anywhere on the exterior of the engine. What I've found in pix (on the web) has it on the passenger side between the carb and the front of the engine. Is this what you're talking about?

[Herb Concord Ca]

Two types of oil filter additions, both external. One on the valve cover the other on the side timing gear cover. The one on valve cover is full flow the other is part flow. Pros and cons to each.

[David in San Antonio]

I always turn off the fuel about three blocks from home. There is just enough fuel left to pause in the driveway, open the garage door, and pull in. The engine idles for about 30 seconds before quitting. If I don’t run it dry the garage smells strongly of fuel.
I also use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil. You can go down a deep rabbit hole researching oils. “The Motor Oil Geek” is a scientist on YouTube. He has a good explanation of why you should never use an oil additive.
The discussion about oil filter system add-on (full flow vs partial flow) is also a deep rabbit hole. I even had an engine builder refuse to add an oil filter system to my engine because he’d “seen engines blow up” because of it!

[atch]

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I just got home from church driving the A. I turned the gas off as I turned off of the road into my driveway. I had to wait a few seconds for the door to go up and right in front of the garage door there is a short incline. Not too steep but you definitely know you're on a hill. Car died just as I got it in the garage. It stopped at just the right place. Right where I would have stopped had the gas still been on.

That will be my MO from now on.

I'd like to drive to French Lick next yar. Round trip that's over 500 miles so even if I change oil just before leaving I'll have to either 1) change oil while I'm gone, OR 2) go more than the recommended 500 miles between oil changes. Based on conversations above I don't see any reason to change oil during the trip.

I have no way of knowing the actual mileage, but I've figured out how to get there without getting onto any interstate highways. Going through STL will be miles and miles of city streets though. Strictly using I-70, I-64, and a couple of feeder roads Google Maps says about 5 hours and 350 miles. I figure twice that time in a Model A. Maybe more.

[atch]

Today we did a photoshoot at the Williamson Burr Oak Tree, the largest burr oak tree in Missouri and tied for the largest one in the US. Before I (& Sherry) snapped the photos a group of adults reached around the tree and it took eight of them. In one photo I'm standing by the tree for perspective.

[German guy]

I leave my driver's side up while garaged and it has not caused any sag. I mounted the hood retainer a little closer to the middle because I feared sag. It just involved drilling another hole in the mounting brackets. I see no reason why leaving both sides up would be different.

[1930artdeco]

Maybe I missed what you have for a carb and head combo but I drive mine on the freeway all of the time. Before I installed the OD I was running (still am actually) a 5.5 head and a Marvel carb. Plenty of power for me to cruise at 52 all day long, I just have to be a better driver than all other morons on the freeway that are distracted. Prefer to stay on slower roads but if I have to I will.

[atch]

I know absolutely nothing about Model A carbs so I snapped a couple of photos for you all to peruse. Is this an original Ford Model A carburetor? If not what do you suppose it is? I've been told that the plug in the intake manifold above the carb is where the vacuum line for the windshield wiper motor hooks into. Is it worth the hassle to reconnect the wipers? The wiper arms and vacuum motor are still there but obviously disconnected. Do they actually work worth a hoot? I've been using RainX on my 1948 Ford panel truck for 50 years and don't mind doing the same for the "A". Also did these things not have an air cleaner? That worries me; we live on a dusty gravel road.

[Herb Concord Ca]

That is a Zenith Carb. Stock for a Model A. Like your shut of valve in the gas line, not stock but works great at stopping gas flow. I have that style valve on both my A's.

[1930artdeco]

OK, even with the Zenith on my car I could get her up to 50ish, it just took a little while longer. No there was no air filter on these cars.

Mike

[atch]

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

That is a Zenith Carb. Stock for a Model A. Like your shut of valve in the gas line, not stock but works great at stopping gas flow. I have that style valve on both my A's.

Fuel ball valve was installed by some former owner. I'm not sure why as the original valve under the tank seems to work just fine. As I pull into the garage I turn off the original and let the engine die from fuel starvation.

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

OK, even with the Zenith on my car I could get her up to 50ish, it just took a little while longer. No there was no air filter on these cars.

Mike

1. I live on a dusty gravel road. Have any of you retrofitted an air cleaner on your car/truck? I'm thinking Ill try to do something and any suggestions would be very welcome.

2. Are you saying that a carburetor change will add horsepower? This thing goes as fast as I'll ever need it to so I doubt I'll ever change it (has Mitchell OD) but I'm trying to gain all the knowledge I can wrap my pea brain around.

[atch]

b-t-w; and f-w-i-w:

In the first 26 days I've owned this Model A I've driven it 575 miles. I've been reading oil change threads on here and it appears that most folks don't drive that far in a year or more.

[1930artdeco]

Not an expert at air cleaners for these carbs. BUT, yes you can retro fit them, HOWEVER, if you do I think that you would be best suited to add a filter that sticks up vertically since these carbs can leak fuel and soak the element (I.E. fire hazard). Also, I have heard that you need a rather large element so as not restrict the air flow. Others will chime in with more specs.

As far as changing carbs out, if this carb works for you (speed/power/MPG) then stick with it. If in the future you want more power which is good if you need it in a pinch, you can use a Marvel/Allstate (best of the A and B world) or a Model B carb-will need to enlarge the intake manifold to take full advantage of the carb.

Mike

[atch]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Not an expert at air cleaners for these carbs. BUT, yes you can retro fit them, HOWEVER, if you do I think that you would be best suited to add a filter that sticks up vertically since these carbs can leak fuel and soak the element (I.E. fire hazard). Also, I have heard that you need a rather large element so as not restrict the air flow. Others will chime in with more specs...

Mike

Thanks. That sounds like good advice and I would never have thought of it.

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

...As far as changing carbs out, if this carb works for you (speed/power/MPG) then stick with it. If in the future you want more power which is good if you need it in a pinch, you can use a Marvel/Allstate (best of the A and B world) or a Model B carb-will need to enlarge the intake manifold to take full advantage of the carb.

Mike

Thanks. I'm not thinking of changing it out; just trying to get educated.

[atch]

I was thinking about ordering the Les Andrews books but decided to first search everything that came with the Model A.

Lo and behold; I just found that Vol I and Vol II of the Mechanic Handbook and the Troubleshooting & Diagnostics books are in a bag of goodies they gave me.

Now I've got a LOT of research to do.

[atch]

I was thinking about ordering the Les Andrews books but decided to first search everything that came with the Model A.

Lo and behold; I just found that Vol I and Vol II of the Mechanic Handbook and the Troubleshooting & Diagnostics books are in a bag of goodies they gave me.

Now I've got a LOT of research to do.

[David in San Antonio]

It appears that your car does not have the engine pans in place. These bridge the gap between the sides of the oil pan and the frame rails. They keep road dirt from flying up into the engine compartment and being sucked into the carb. Some people say they also help engine cooling. It seems that mechanics found them to be a pain in the neck when dropping and reinstalling the oil pan, so threw them on the scrap pile by the thousands. I figure if Henry Ford could save a dime or two by eliminating an unnecessary part he would have done it.
Something to think about.

[atch]

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

It appears that your car does not have the engine pans in place. These bridge the gap between the sides of the oil pan and the frame rails. They keep road dirt from flying up into the engine compartment and being sucked into the carb. Some people say they also help engine cooling. It seems that mechanics found them to be a pain in the neck when dropping and reinstalling the oil pan, so threw them on the scrap pile by the thousands. I figure if Henry Ford could save a dime or two by eliminating an unnecessary part he would have done it.
Something to think about.

I've never heard of "engine pans." I've got to research that.

...long pause...

So I've Googled them and found some information. 1) They are readily available, both new and used. 2) Each side uses two oil pan bolts and three bolts into the frame.

Living on a dusty gravel road I agree with David that it might/should prevent a lot of airborne dust from entering the engine through the carburetor and therefore would be worth the money and time to install them.

Does anyone have an estimate of the time required to install these? I'm guessing 1-2 hours for one person. Does that sound right? Is there any reason that it could require more than one person?

According to the Les Andrews Vol. I book it appears that you remove (or maybe just loosen) two oil pan bolts on each side of the engine, put them back in through the two tabs on the engine pan (or slide the tab slots under the loosened bolts), and install the three engine pan bolts into the frame. This on each side. I don't see any need to drop the oil pan or even remove/loosen more than these four bolts. Does that sound like I've got it figured out?

Another question: do the engine pans interfere with an oil filter with the 90° adapter?

[atch]

I'll be sourcing/installing engine pans and oil filter along with 90° adapter. The pans probably very soon. The oil filter setup probably over the winter.

Off to lunch with the MMMARC (Mid Missouri Model A Restorers Club) members in a few minutes.

[Fullraceflathead]

Where do you guys have your club meetings and get togethers I'm in Chillicothe Missouri.

[atch]

Drove the A to church again yesterday. I've driven 704 miles in the 51 days since I bought it. The folks at church have seen it enough times that the "new" has worn off for them. They aren't awed by it anymore and occasionally one will comment "you drove the A today, huh" but that's about all. They have seen my 1948 Ford panel truck and my Harley Davidson so many times they don't even comment anymore.

I'm getting better at downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. I've discovered that if I go from 3-low to 2-high (Mitchell overdrive) that it downshifts a lot better with much less grinding of teeth. I mean that I shift the OD down into low and then shift the trans down from 3rd to 2nd. Realistically, though, I usually try to just come to a stop and go to 1st whenever possible/practical. That way there isn't any transmission downshifting while moving.

I ran it out of gas last week. Very long story that I won't bore you all with. But it held 10.409 gallons from bone dry to full right up to near the top. At least I know exactly how much it will hold now. I had been told that a 1930 holds 11 gallons but mine sure doesn't. Before winter sets in I'll run a couple of tanks of non-ethanol gas through it and leave non-ethanol in it for the winder storage. Unfortunately I have to go quite a way out of my way to get Non-E. I'm going to put a quart of gas in an empty oil bottle; put that inside a zip-lock baggie; put that in another zip-lock baggie; and keep it in the car. There is a front and rear trunk so it won't have to be inside the car. I might even do that twice. That will get me a few miles should I run out again. When I ran out I was on my way to the gas station and ran out about 1/4 mile from it. If I had already crested the hill I was on I could have coasted on in to the station.

b-t-w; I bought my first old vehicle 52 years ago and the one saying that I guarantee holds true is that "sooner or later every old car will embarrass you."

No matter how many new parts your car has or how many systems have been overhauled/rebuilt something else will fail or otherwise go wrong eventually.

[atch]

Last Saturday; 9/27/25.

My model A in a row of Model A's at a car show in Jefferson City, Missouri.

[katy]

Looking Good!!

[atch]

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Thanks katy. Has it started turning cold in Alberta yet? I have an internet acquaintance in Grimshaw. I see that Red Deer isn't as far north. Before I get much older I'd like to get up there to visit him.

[NRP]

Looks great! Good luck with it.

[katy]

Originally Posted by atch

Has it started turning cold in Alberta yet?

Weather has cooled down a bit, no frost yet, but getting close, November is when we'll see "winter".

https://weather.gc.ca/en/location/in...2.269,-113.810

[atch]

Next "idiot" story:

As you can see from my post above, I drove the A to a car show Saturday. Ran beautifully. Got home and parked it in the garage. Sunday I got in it to go to church, started it, put it in reverse, it started to move and pow; after about 3 feet it just quit moving. Motor was still running but it wouldn't go anywhere. I turned the engine off and pushed it back into the garage. Having no time to fool with it M, T, W I finally got a minute yesterday. Eventually the thought occurred to me: "the trans gearshift isn't in neutral, but what about the Mitchell OD shifter?" I started it, moved the Mitchell lever, and viola! took right off. So I drove it to my Model A meeting last evening. Again it ran beautifully.

I'm pretty sure that I'll have more idiot experiences to share as time goes on. But I'm learning.

I seldom enter car shows anymore. I had enough of that when I was younger. But I have several friends who belong to the car club that put this show on (again, see above). Coincidentally they also happen to be members of my Model A club. As they are trying to get older cars into their show they didn't charge admission for pre-war cars and encouraged the Model A folks to bring their A's. There were some REALLY nice trailer queens there that won the trophies but that's ok by me. My car is a really nice driver quality car but not a show winner by any means. I don't even keep it all that clean. When I do go to car shows it's to visit with friends and make more friends. As the other A owners were wiping down their cars and making sure that there wasn't a speck of dust on them and that every little detail was in place I was socializing and enjoying myself. I have several long-time good friends that I met at car shows. I met my wife of the last 21 years at a car show. That's a long story that someday I'll relate herein. b-t-w; I'm not criticizing trophy hounds; I just don't happen to be one of them.

I've put over 900 miles on it in a little over two months. I really need to do some lubrication maintenance before I drive it again.

One of the friends referenced above (in both car clubs) has put over 11,000 miles on his Model A pickup in 4 years. I don't know if I'll be able to keep up with him, but I'll try.

[atch]

As of yesterday I'm up to 1,288 miles since I bought it in early August. I'll be putting around 50 miles on it this evening when I drive it to my Model A club meeting.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by atch

I'm getting better at downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. I've discovered that if I go from 3-low to 2-high (Mitchell overdrive) that it downshifts a lot better with much less grinding of teeth. I mean that I shift the OD down into low and then shift the trans down from 3rd to 2nd. Realistically, though, I usually try to just come to a stop and go to 1st whenever possible/practical. That way there isn't any transmission downshifting while moving.

Atch, good to see you are enjoying your Model A. Just a suggestion, when downshifting, put the Mitchell in neutral, then downshift, then re-engage the Mitchell. Use the Mitchell's synchros. No grinding, no double clutching.

[atch]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Atch, good to see you are enjoying your Model A. Just a suggestion, when downshifting, put the Mitchell in neutral, then downshift, then re-engage the Mitchell. Use the Mitchell's synchros. No grinding, no double clutching.

Wowzer. I'll try that next time I drive it. THANKS!

I plan to drive it about a hundred miles next Tuesday to an annual lunch gathering of four friends (veterans) who meet every Veterans Day at the same Mexican restaurant in Jefferson City, MO. We've been doing this since 2012. There were five of us but Ed has gone on. The rest of us aren't spring chickens anymore so who knows how long this will last. One year Tom and I rode together in his Model A sedan. Several times I've gone in Clarence, my 1948 Ford panel truck. This year Tom is going to ride with me.

As this is the Ford Barn, let me say that I have the drivable Model A, a Model A project, and Clarence. I've had the panel truck since February of 1973. The Model A's are more recent. Nearly all of Bob's old cars have been fords and nearly all of them have been 28/29 Model A's. Two of his Model A's have been his for over 50 years. A sedan and a pu have been runners for most of those 50 years. This year he competed a 28/29 panel truck that he first bought about 40 years ago. Bill is now out of the old car "business" but he used to have a really nice '36 Ford sedan. Tom has two Model A's and a Model T that are drivers. The Model T has been on the road for at least 30 years and one of the model A's probably 20. His other Model A is a running, driving, non-restored car that has always been a driver. He also has enough Model A bodies to put together several more. I'm not even sure I can count all of the old fords that the late Ed had. His two drivers were a '32 5-window and an English Ford Prefect. He also had storage buildings full of old car projects, mostly Fords.

So this is fairly appropriate for the 'Barn.

After next Tuesday I plan to quit driving the "A" for the winter. Or at least until I change oil and lube it completely. And install engine pans and oil filter. I'm still up in the air about an air filter. I live on a gravel road so it concerns me. However, in 1930 when this car was built most roads were gravel. Last night at our monthly Model A club meeting we discussed using or not using air filters. Hey, I'm the president so we can talk about anything I want. Of the 15-20 folks that were there some said do it and some said don't. I've read on here several conversations about it and the consensus here also appears to be split down the middle.

Note that I am president this year because I'm one of the newest (6-7 years membership) and youngest (74) members. Most of the guys are old enough and tired enough that they don't want to be the pres again.

Thanks again for the tip about putting the Mitchell in neutral when downshifting.

[atch]

I didn't drive the A between 11/20/25 and 1/6/26 but put 36 miles on it Tuesday (1/6). So far it's getting 14.281 miles/gallon. Does that sound about right in your experience?

[David in San Antonio]

Ah, the old air filter debate. If your car has the engine pans the air filter is less critical. The crux of the debate about the air filter is whether/how much it restricts the airflow. If the airflow is restricted, the carb will run rich. There is a workaround, to balance the carburetor, which involves drilling. If interested, others here can provide details.
I tried using a nice big paper element air filter but the kit mounted the filter below the carb. Every stray drop of fuel made its way into the paper. I pictured a conflagration and removed it.

[nkaminar]

The filters that filter out rocks will not restrict air flow to the point where the Model A stock carburetor will run rich. Any other filter needs the modification to the carburetor. In the stock carburetor the float chamber is open to the atmosphere. In the modified carburetor the float chamber is open to a point in the carburetor after the filter but before the venturi.

My heavy 30 Fordor gets 20 mpg on back roads at 50 mph. But only 16 mpg at 65 on the highway. (I have overdrive.) Windage is the major factor for mpg for a Model A. A high compression head will help with mpg.

[atch]

Yesterday I began my first oil change and lube job.

1. It was nice to see that my car has a magnetic oil drain plug.

2. The grease fittings are partly "modern" zerk fittings and partly the original cone shaped fittings. I have borrowed a friend's grease gun for the original fittings and am using one of my grease guns for zerk fittings.

3. At some time in the (near???) future I plan to change out the originals for zerks. I haven't gotten far enough to see if the originals are press in or screw in but initially it appears to be some of each. That's not right is it? Maybe my eyes are just getting old.

4. In the transmission I can feel the lube with my finger but it's not all the way up to "running out." How full should it be? Should I add more until it litteraly overflows?

[31deluxe]

Reading the original post reminded me of an article in the AACA magazine.
We all have to go sometime but those of us with antique or collectible cars should take some steps NOW!
A few I remember from the article:


Document - Fuel shutoffs - Electrical cutoffs--- Location of keys- Special starting instructions-location of title or registration for transfer. Anyone special who should have first choice.
I will try to find the article to add to this.

[atch]

Originally Posted by 31deluxe

...Document - Fuel shutoffs - Electrical cutoffs--- Location of keys- Special starting instructions-location of title or registration for transfer. Anyone special who should have first choice.
I will try to find the article to add to this.

Thanks for the tip.

Firstly: when I got the title I had it TOD (Transfer On Death) to my daughter. She knows when I die it's hers. In Missouri TOD automatically transfers ownershikp to the recipient by only showing the title with that notation and a death certificate with no other hoops to jump through. I assume that most states have the same or something similar.

Secondly: I have a 3-ring binder with every titbit and scrap of information I've collected regarding the car. That includes what all the controls do and where to set them when driving. Also where the electrical shut-off and both (yes, both) fuel valves are. Also, as a back-up, she knows several of my car club buddies who have Model A's that she can ask if there's something I missed. I see that there are some things I'll be adding to make it more complete.

[atch]

Next question: I have some 80W 90 lube left over from the last time I rebuilt a 3rd member.

Can (or should) I use this in my Model A transmission and/or 3rd member? This would be to top off, not replace.

Note: yes, I've watched Paul Shinn's video on this very topic (thank you @P.S.). I'm not asking for anyone to refute his advice. I'm leaving in two days for a weekend trip that will probably accumulate 800 - 900 miles. The transmission is a half inch or so lower than overflowing. I'm just wondering if I should use what I've got to top it off and replace it when I get back home or leave it alone. There's really no opportunity to replace the lube before I leave.

Note that I'll be checking the rear end lube tomorrow so same question there if it's low.

Another note: I thought that putting @ and then a username sent a notice to said user; like most other message boards do. I guess that's my mistake. I hope you see this Paul.

[1930artdeco]

Here are my thoughts:
1) The zerks should all be the same. That being said a lot has happened in the last 100 years. I like screw in so that they don't pop off when trying to push grease into a cavity.

2) If you have oil up to the threads in the tranny you will be fine. As far as the 80/90 wt. it will work in the tranny as a top off. It may thin the 600wt. out a little but if you need to you can add some STP to thicken it back up. JUST A LITTLE as that stuff is really thick.

3) Good luck on the road trip and have fun. Are you going to the National in Oregon in June? IF so we are having a Ford Barn meetup for Pizza, there is a thread here about it.

Mike

[tnhammond]

Welcome to the fun atch !

My father bought our 1930 coupe in 1957. It was Earl Scheib blue at that time.

In 1965 the young lady that is still my wife , a couple of friends and I took it all the way down to the frame.

It remains our favorite weekend driver.

Best regards,

Tim & Linda Hammond

[atch]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Here are my thoughts:
1) The zerks should all be the same. That being said a lot has happened in the last 100 years. I like screw in so that they don't pop off when trying to push grease into a cavity.

2) If you have oil up to the threads in the tranny you will be fine. As far as the 80/90 wt. it will work in the tranny as a top off. It may thin the 600wt. out a little but if you need to you can add some STP to thicken it back up. JUST A LITTLE as that stuff is really thick.

3) Good luck on the road trip and have fun. Are you going to the National in Oregon in June? IF so we are having a Ford Barn meetup for Pizza, there is a thread here about it.

Mike

Won't be making it to Oregon. I'd love to do that someday. I am considering going to French Lick for that national meet this year. This car has been there in the past when the previous owner was alive.

This weekend we're going to Dewey, Oklahoma, to a car show that we usually go to. We normally take Clarence, the 1948 Ford panel truck but it's in bodyshop jail right now. It's about 350 miles each way. We've never driven the Model A more than about 150 miles in one day. I'm really looking forward to the adventure. FWIW: there will be one more interesting Model A there. Larry will be driving his Vicky from Albuquerque. It has a hopped-up banger motor (but otherwise pretty much original) and he drives it everywhere. Any other Model A's there will be hot rods, as this show is a hot rod and custom show.

b-t-w; I'm inside for lunch right now but when that's done I'm going to run into town and pick up lube and change out the trans and rear lube today.

[atch]

Originally Posted by tnhammond

Welcome to the fun atch !

My father bought our 1930 coupe in 1957. It was Earl Scheib blue at that time.

In 1965 the young lady that is still my wife , a couple of friends and I took it all the way down to the frame.

It remains our favorite weekend driver.

Best regards,

Tim & Linda Hammond

WOW! Nearly 70 years in the same family. That's awesome.

[1930artdeco]

Atch, about 250 is about all my body can take-well I can go more but why? Have fun adn just listen to her sing away.

Mike

[atch]

So I got the engine oil, transmission lube, and differential lube changed this week. Also most of the grease fittings lubed. I have 2 grease guns and ran both of them dry. Running to town to get more grease cost me almost an hour. I guess I could have stayed with it a while longer but came into the house, showered, and packed. Enough is enough.

[atch]

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As I mentioned in response #102 above, this just past weekend we drove the A to Dewey, Oklahoma. At least we drove it a little over 300 of the 350 miles. We were cruising along just happy as a clam when the engine died hammer dead right there on southbound US 169 in southern Kansas just a hop skip and a jump from Oklahoma.

It rode on a rollback the rest of the way to the Airbnb where we were going to stay. As soon as we got there I called the fella who puts on the show and asked if he knew of anyone who could come figure out what to do. He told me to stay by my phone and he called "the best mechanic around," who then called me back. He came over to the Airbnb to look into the situation. By that time I had turned the engine by the crankshaft bolt and watched the distributor rotor. It didn't turn.

He removed the side cover and I bumped the starter. The crankshaft didn't turn either. OOPSSSSS. It's now sitting at his shop and when he figures out what parts it needs I'll order them and have them shipped to his address. Yes; logic says timing gear but let's just wait and see. When it's roadworthy again he'll call me at which time we'll make another road trip to bring it home.

We rented a car in Tulsa Saturday and drove it home today. We ran down to Tulsa in a borrowed car.

All that said, I didn't let a little mechanical faux pas spoil a perfectly good car show. I saw lots of friends who I have met at car shows in various locations over the years and made a couple of new friends. One from Minnesota and a married couple from New Zealand.

[atch]

So Harold, mentioned in my previous post, has been on an extended vacation from pretty much right after the A went to his shop. He got home over this past weekend. Parts are being shipped from Bert's today directly to his shop. I have no way of knowing how long it will take for the parts to get to Oklahoma but sometime in the next week or two I should be going back down to Bartlesville and driving it home.