Checking for frozen shocks?

[Jim Kroeger]

I am going to be inspecting the shocks on my 1930 Town Sedan to see if they are frozen or funtioning properly. How does one do this? Do I have to remove the shocks from the frame or is there some way to test them while they are on the car to see if they are frozen? Thanks. JIM

[jkeesey]

Disconnect the shock arm and use a wrench directly on the square shank. Leave the shocks bolted to the frame for leverage.

[Kevin in NJ]

Have someone sit on the fender while you look at the shock.

If it is stuck the wheel will not move.

If the shaft on the shock has any play then it is bad. The shaft should only turn and have no wobble. If it wobbles then it is a decorative piece of metal.

Keep in mind a functioning shock was test by a lever that went out beyond the bumper. The few pounds at the end of a metal lever was to take 15 seconds (I think that was the number, it is in the service bulletins) to fall.
This equates to using a lot of push on the stock shock arm to slowly move the arm.

Hopefully one day I will be able to tell you what the KRW testing arm was like so you could make a copy.

[Patrick L.]

Just have someone push up/down on the bumpers and watch them. If you want to look anthem more closely, then as said, remove the arm and use a crescent wrench[ or whatever size the square is]

[Charlie Stephens]

They are expensive but Bill Stipe is taking a list for another production run of his shocks. I am on his list. Check the archives for comments on his shocks and other parts he makes.

Charlie Stephens


FOLLOWING IS THE EMAIL I RECEIVED FROM BILL:

If you want a set of 4 Model A shock absorbers bodies only no arms or links the price will be $1100.00 plus shipping for anyone that’s on our list we have compiled or email before June 25. Just send a deposit of $300.00. per set.
My dead line to order all the precut steel and parts is June 25th Thank you for your business Sincerely Bill Stipe
Stipe Machine Co Inc.
N5718 County Road M
Plymouth, WI. 53073
920-467-2895

[Jim Kroeger]

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Originally Posted by jkeesey

Disconnect the shock arm and use a wrench directly on the square shank. Leave the shocks bolted to the frame for leverage.

Once I disconect the shock arm and put a wrench to the square shank what do I do next and what do I look for? Just to see if it moves?

[Jim Kroeger]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Have someone sit on the fender while you look at the shock.

If it is stuck the wheel will not move.

If the shaft on the shock has any play then it is bad. The shaft should only turn and have no wobble. If it wobbles then it is a decorative piece of metal.

Keep in mind a functioning shock was test by a lever that went out beyond the bumper. The few pounds at the end of a metal lever was to take 15 seconds (I think that was the number, it is in the service bulletins) to fall.
This equates to using a lot of push on the stock shock arm to slowly move the arm.

Hopefully one day I will be able to tell you what the KRW testing arm was like so you could make a copy.

Kevin, when you say the wheel will not move, do you mean the shock itself? The shaft on the left side shock is pointing up while the shaft on the right side shock is parallel to the ground. I have the dog ear connectors that the shaft is connected to on the rear end. Thanks.

[jkeesey]

What Kevin is saying is that if the shock is frozen the suspension will not want to move at all. Testing my way just push the wrench up and pull down. It should move but with some resistance.

[Kevin in NJ]

The shock should move and only on the axis of the shaft.

It should move very stiff, as in hard to move with just the arm on the shock with the adjustment closed down fully. You should note a difference with it easier going in the opposite direction.

If there is ANY play in the shaft then the shock is bad. If you can see the shock do anything other then rotate then it can not work properly.