Murray door wood patterns?

[scl009]

Welp $140 ryobi table saw and $100 router table from harbor frieight and this is what I have so far. Some minor touch ups with respect to the curve, routing out the hole for the window slides, figuring out the mortise for top and bottom wood, and I think I'm there.

I think I'm finally catching on to the 3 degree taper thing and that might be why its not fitting so perfectly yet.

Thanks Terry

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by scl009

Welp $140 ryobi table saw and $100 router table from harbor frieight and this is what I have so far. Some minor touch ups with respect to the curve, routing out the hole for the window slides, figuring out the mortise for top and bottom wood, and I think I'm there.

I think I'm finally catching on to the 3 degree taper thing and that might be why its not fitting so perfectly yet.

Thanks Terry

Yes! That three degree thing can make you crazy! Anyway, That looks like a great start. But you're not done yet! Once you do get in just the right place determined by the position of the lock (Note the large notchout in one of Marco's pictures) You must fit it to that steel plate that supports the lock and window regulator assy. Get all this positioned and you're ready to trim the ends to length (IIRC 40 1/2" on my Briggs, No guarantees that's what it is on a Murray) Also there is a center cross piece just below the window. This piece is tenoned at both ends and fits into a mortise in the vertical (uprights) pieces. Again, Is a Murray the same? I honestly don't know! Marco cut a notch, fitted the crosspiece and bolted his together. I hope you roughed out all four of these pieces It will take some of the work out of this for you. Just remember that the fronts and rears are different in respect to the angles (3 deg,)
Best of luck! Terry