Steering Wheel Puller

[Cape Codder]

What can the Barn community tell me about Bratton's Steering Wheel Puller pro or con? Need one really bad but don't want to buy junk.
Thanks for your time.
Joe Grobleski

[columbiA]

Ive always been able to remove "A" steering wheels by running nut exactly flush with end of shaft,putting upward pressure on wheel with my knees & giving a good swat on end of shaft with a 2# hammer.

[CarlG]

If the steering wheel is really stuck on there, the pullers the vendors sell is useless. If you have a 30-31, just remove the horn rod, drill & tap a couple of 1/4" holes and use a "real" wheel puller on it. Just make sure you leave the nut on the threads before applying any pressure or you will ruin the threads.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Try search, I posted my surefire steering wheel pulling trick that Ringo taught me. No puller needed & NO HAMMERING. Bill W.

[Brentwood Bob]

The exposed threads are fragile. Best solution I have heard of is to take a bolt that will fit into the shaft. Releave the nut on a lathe so a pocket is created to shield the exposed fragile threads of the shaft. Then support the steering wheel and tap the bolt head with a bfh. Bob

[Brentwood Bob]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you do this let me know and I will buy one of the modified bolts from you. Bob

[miss victoria]

Yes i do it Carls way but i use a 3 bolt puller and a nut with a plate welded on top.

[jrapose]

I think we all have used the push up with the knees and hit it with a hammer ,method at one time or other.... now I use an inexpensive steering wheel puller from Harbor Freight....back in 1964 I had a steering wheel break off as I was coming down a steep hill on the freeway, worse yet I had my girfriend in the pickup...we locked em up and went off the road .....the emergiency brake held and the left rear wheel locked on to a 4" edgeing on the pavement....only thing that stopped us from going down a 80' very steep imbankment....too close... the steering shaft just snapped off...I have thought it possibly could have been damaged by improper pulling of the wheel slightly bending or stressing that shaft...so now I am VERY careful with steering and brake stuff... too close to death..
All the puller is supposed to do is maintain some upward pressure on the steering wheel while you hit the center bolt (with the nut on) and it is the shock that actually removes the tension on the tapered shaft.... all you do if you put lots of pressure on a puller is ruin the puller..

[Afordman31]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

What can the Barn community tell me about Bratton's Steering Wheel Puller pro or con? Need one really bad but don't want to buy junk.
Thanks for your time.
Joe Grobleski

Here is the steering wheel puller that I made many years ago, It has removed a couple of stubborn ones. I made this one with the slot in it because I have a closed cab pickup and you can't take the horn rod out without removing the column. I put a steering wheel on my column and installed it in my pickup, then found out that the wheel was rubbing a small amount when I turned the wheel. With this puller I pulled out the horn rod a ways then loosened the steering wheel nut, slipped the puller over the horn rod and proceeded to remove the steering wheel, I then put a small piece of brass shim stock around the taper to keep the steering wheel from going on to far. When I used the puller I put cardboard under it where it touched the steering wheel to prevent marring the wheel. After I tightened the 1/4" bolts snug and my wheel came off. You can also use this puller on a wheel that doesn't have the horn rod installed, just tighten the bolts and smack the puller with a hammer to shock it loose from the taper. This one was made out of 1/4" stock which worked ok for me. A little heavier would probably be better. The 1/2" nut that I welded on the underside of the plate was the right thickness to meet the steering wheel nut that I had loosened.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Use both the nut around top and the bolt! If no lathe to center drill the bolt for a divot to center puller, find someone with a drill press. Clamp a piece of wood to the table, drill a hole that's a snug fit on your bolt, put in bolt, and hit it with just the tip of a drill. Oh yes. hold it against rotation with w wrench or visegrip while you do that.
Pulling forces can be very high and it is quite possible to ruin the shaft if you do not properly reinforce things.
On drilling the wheel for 2 bolts...I use a slightly undersize drill for the 5/16 tap so I get deep threads in the rubber to perhaps add a bit of grip to the threads you cut in the thin steel core. I do it without drilling through and adding nuts...if the bolts ever pull out, then I will drill through and add nuts.

[VWJoe]

Here's how I do it. Just drill (2) holes 180 degrees apart. Tap to 5/16" and use a stright bar puller thats available everywhere. Easy,,,,

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

jrapose,
Your story about you & your girlfriend reminded me that on my '32 5 window, the gearshift dome cover just screwed off to pop the stick out. I always kept the steering wheel nut only finger tight. Really increases the "NECKING ROOM" with those pieces out of the way!! Bill W.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Try search, I posted my surefire steering wheel pulling trick that Ringo taught me. No puller needed & NO HAMMERING. Bill W.

I remember the one about using the correct shoulder movement. I thought it was pretty good. I call it , giving it that right little twitch.