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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Owosso, MI
Posts: 673
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Does anyone have any tips for removing the old seals? I plan to install the new one this weekend and the old one does not want to come out.
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1929 Model A Barn find. California car, just a few more parts to find. Interior, steering box (rebuild), and I am sure much more! |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: ca.
Posts: 2,524
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they do that . it takes patience & a ice pick or suitable sharp object to get it out . patience is the key here i think ..
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 908
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I have had luck with a 1 1/2 inch putty knife, a blade screw driver that I filed to a sharp edge and a small hammer.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Owosso, MI
Posts: 673
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Is it best to do this on the car? I thought about doing the hinge seal at the same time, but am unsure about removing the windshield yet.
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1929 Model A Barn find. California car, just a few more parts to find. Interior, steering box (rebuild), and I am sure much more! |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 330
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leave it in the sun, let it get warm.. spray liberally around the seal with water soluable mineral oil.. the mineral oil softens up rubber very quickly, and after long enough exposure (a week or so) turn to a gooey, gummy substance.. It may be sticky, but should loosen up it's grip on the glass
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Posts: 13
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millbrae, CA
Posts: 550
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I did my 68A windshield frame about two months ago.
![]() It had delaminated glass, lots of 50 year old silicone sealer, and the groove was a combo of glass, rust, and the seal. I first used a hammer to beat out most of the old glass. Then, I used a putty knife, an ice pick, and a cut down screwdriver. ![]() I did it over a few days, mostly lots of elbow grease, and as the top of the photo shows, lots of fine crud and stringy silicone were still showing up after a day plus working on it. ...then I had the frame sandblasted. Afterwards, my painter saw all the rust through in the channel and suggested I buy/find another frame. My biggest concerns were the bulging rust blistered areas that had been in the frame all these years. When I started, these visibly bad areas looked about the same condition as they had around 1960, so I figured if I clean it up enough, prime it, put in new seal and glass, paint it good; then it should last longer than I will. I was able to get the bulged out rust areas all cleared out and back to pre-rust shape. ..so, I spent another couple days TIGing up rust holes in the channel. It looks pretty good and quite useable now. Just took time and patience. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Owosso, MI
Posts: 673
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Sorry this is the seal that seals against the body when you close the windshield, not the seal that holds the glass itself, that one appears to be fine. I am trying to get the seals replaced because I plan to put a roof on it this fall/winter and want to get it sealed back up. Right now the windshield cannot be closed at all.
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1929 Model A Barn find. California car, just a few more parts to find. Interior, steering box (rebuild), and I am sure much more! |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,219
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I'm working on the windshield frame for my car right now. I used a flat chisel and gently pryed up on the metal flange untill the old hard rubber would come out. From what I can see on mine the factory put the rubber in and then went around the flange with a hammer and a pin punch about every 2 inchs and pinched the rubber in place. Take the windshield out and work on the bench it will be easier in the long run.
The Old Tinbasher |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Owosso, MI
Posts: 673
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Quote:
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1929 Model A Barn find. California car, just a few more parts to find. Interior, steering box (rebuild), and I am sure much more! |
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