Bolting the Front Crossmember

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Worry, worry, worry! Most of the twisting & flexing will be absorbed in the length of the frame rails.
Why rivets originally: Probably faster and cheaper.
Don't forget, a number of years back, Ford trucks had rivet problems in the frames causing all kinds of horrible popping and groaning sounds. You can re-tighten bolts, if they ever loosened, but it would be a "BEARCAT" to re-tighten rivets. Yes, I know it's not PROPER, but sometimes we have to be practical. Bill W.

I gotta question or two, ....if you have used Loctite on the threads, how you gonna "re-tighten bolts" once it has hardened??

Also, to re-tighten those bolts, how do you gain access to the top of the bolt to hold it while you attempt to tighten the nut when the fender is covering the bolt head? Maybe I am wrong but it don't seem too practical to remove the headlights & wiring, the headlight bar, radiator apron and the fenders just to be able to put a wrench on that bolt head!! Maybe I am overlooking something and if so, I apologize in advance for my ignorance in this.

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[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I gotta question or two, ....if you have used Loctite on the threads, how you gonna "re-tighten bolts" once it has hardened??

Also, to re-tighten those bolts, how do you gain access to the top of the bolt to hold it while you attempt to tighten the nut when the fender is covering the bolt head? Maybe I am wrong but it don't seem too practical to remove the headlights & wiring, the headlight bar, radiator apron and the fenders just to be able to put a wrench on that bolt head!! Maybe I am overlooking something and if so, I apologize in advance for my ignorance in this.

.

Loctite comes in a lot of different gripping powers, red, the least, blue, next higher, then there's a green, a purple, and I don't remember if there's more. They even have a "stud & brearing mount" for severe applications. I don't think the bolts would ever loosen, if it did they could be re-tightened with blue Loctite. Multiple screws in my full leg braces always fell out until I put "THE BLUE TO THEM!" (No, I'm not a Loctite Distributor) Bill W.

[VWJoe]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Loctite comes in a lot of different gripping powers, red, the least, blue, next higher, then there's a green, a purple, and I don't remember if there's more. They even have a "stud & brearing mount" for severe applications. I don't think the bolts would ever loosen, if it did they could be re-tightened with blue Loctite. Multiple screws in my full leg braces always fell out until I put "THE BLUE TO THEM!" (No, I'm not a Loctite Distributor) Bill W.

Hey Bill, I thought RED was the strongest. Have to use the torch to remove it, at least here on the east coast

Joe,,,

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Loctite comes in a lot of different gripping powers, red, the least, blue, next higher, then there's a green, a purple, and I don't remember if there's more. They even have a "stud & brearing mount" for severe applications. I don't think the bolts would ever loosen, if it did they could be re-tightened with blue Loctite. Multiple screws in my full leg braces always fell out until I put "THE BLUE TO THEM!" (No, I'm not a Loctite Distributor) Bill W.

Bill, we use "242" (Blue) Loctite here in the shop but it is not made to be re-tightened once it has been cured. By serviceable, all that means is someone can use regular wrenches to remove the fastener as it is the lightest in gripping power. Also, I think you will find that their "271" (Red) is actually a stronger in gripping power over their "Blue" and is considered permanent. "Green" is actually the same strength as Blue but it wicks into the threads meaning you do not need to disassemble the fastener to apply it onto the threads. Its use is for already assembled fasteners.


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Originally Posted by Leathernek

Thanks guys for all the advice! Yeah, I would still prefer the riveting over bolting but time and money are a factor. Plus I'm trying to get this thing back on the road as soon as possible.

It is your car and do it as you wish but anyway you go about it, you are going to need to modify the frame or the sheetmetal to make bolts work. Just remember the original holes are ¼" so if you drill to oversize and then countersink the hole, you are speaking of time. If you consider the price of what L-9 'Lamalloy' quality bolts cost, you will likely see yourself spending $2-$3 a piece for them plus the other hardware that goes with them. The rivet set from a vendor would likely cost less than $10 freight & all, so in my mind it comes down to getting a better job at about the same money and for less time using rivets. Your mileage may vary.......

.

[Leathernek]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Loctite comes in a lot of different gripping powers, red, the least, blue, next higher, then there's a green, a purple, and I don't remember if there's more. They even have a "stud & brearing mount" for severe applications. I don't think the bolts would ever loosen, if it did they could be re-tightened with blue Loctite. Multiple screws in my full leg braces always fell out until I put "THE BLUE TO THEM!" (No, I'm not a Loctite Distributor) Bill W.

Bill, go easy on the loctite! And when you're working with it, be sure that no one slips it in your Kool-aid! (I know a guy that this actually happened to) lol

Josh