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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 2,989
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what should i do before i store a good running Flathead, for future use?
should i put some oil or Marvels in the cylinders?
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If it would have been a snake it would have bit ya! i can't spell my way out of a paper bag! |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: St Croix Falls WI
Posts: 2,080
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Good idea to change oil to get rid of as many contaminents as possible . If you did -do change the oil after it was removed pull the plugs and spin it with the starter till it has oil pressure and keep spinning it for 10 seconds after it has oil pressure { wait a minute and repeat this several times } then add a little of the same oil to each cylinder & roll it over at least 2 revolutions by hand. The starter spinning thing will get fresh-clean oil in all the passages-bearings . I live in the country so the mice thing is an issue . What works here for that is to crumple up some tin foil and plug all openings with it & then duck tape over that . Meeses evidently don't care for chewing on this stuff . Occasionally roll it over a little to give the valves a different "SET" . If you have clean oil in it & if you used the same oil in the cylinders you can just start it up in the future without changing the oil . Good idea to loosen the plug to check for water though first . Then you can spin it over enough without spark plugs to clear the cylinders & get oil pressure . As is the norm here you will probably get many opinions on this but the above will work .
Last edited by David J; 02-08-2012 at 12:32 AM. Reason: fergot stuff |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 2,540
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maybe some MMO in the oil before doing all that??....and spray some oil into the cylinders before storage putting plugs back in and storing?....Mike
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Don't know if it was a good idea or a bad idea but I once filled the engine with motor oil until it was even with the top of the lifters. Had to drain out all the oil years later and it was ok.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: St Croix Falls WI
Posts: 2,080
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Bet she wuznt rusty inside !!!! He didn't say what year motor but if it is an older one without a rear seal this could get the garage floor a tad bit slick
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,582
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I'd say the environment of the storage place is probably the most important factor. Clean, dry (not only from surface moisture, but also from airborne moisture), and varmint-free are probably the three most important things. A thin coat of oil on all the interior contact surfaces should be enough.
There's a product that snowmobilers use called "engine fog" that protects the innards for summer storage. You spray the stuff in the intake while it's running and it coats the cylinders and crankshaft with a thin film of oil. For 4-strokes, you also need to protect the cam and valve train. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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You can buy engine fog at napa. I would change oil first as stated above.
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,582
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Quote:
I've been debating this question with my friends for years with no clear answer. When storing a car for the winter should you change the oil before storage, or change it after storage at the beginning of the season? |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 19
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Hi, I did what the others said about the clean oil and turned it over once awhile. I also built some legs off the front of the engine stand to support the front of the engine just like it would be in a vehicle and possibly not stress the crank or block from just hanging it off the back mount holes.
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: St Croix Falls WI
Posts: 2,080
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Cheap insurance to get any possible corrosive contamination - moisture out of the bearings .
Quote:
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