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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,049
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Can someone explain to me why the 2 ends of the Drag Link are different? I cannot figure it out. I purchased an adjustable drag link but it has 2 ends that are the same the “Front” style. That doesn’t seem right.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 2,899
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They should be opposite threads so that when the rod is turned, it will either get "shorter" or "longer" because of the left-hand and right-hand threads inside the two drag link ends. This is the same principle used in the tie rod for setting the toe-in.
Marshall |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,049
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I understand how it works, I’m asking why the “Front” has the spring on the inner side and the rear has the spring outside of the ball?
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Young Harris, GA
Posts: 2,093
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Quote:
The installation of the spring and ball was always different at each end of the drag link. Ford really just changed which end would be ball first and which end would be spring first.
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Jim Cannon Former MAFCA Technical Director ![]() "Have a Model A day!" |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: alberta canada
Posts: 868
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ive wonder that too.
the thing i think of is. the springs are pushing in the same direction to which may help the length stay consistent. but i really don't know , just a guess.
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old ugly my mom would have told me. "these things are here to test us" |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,156
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I think what jeepguy1948 is referring to is that on a fixed end drag link, the spring on the ball stud is toward the shaft on one end and toward the adjuster on the other. On adjustable drag links matching tie rod ends are used so spring arrangements are the same. Probably some not too obvious engineering reason fixed drag links were made that way; but they built them that way on a lot of stuff besides Fords. Can't see that it will make a difference. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,010
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The drag link wasn't changed. It was just flipped end for end. The problem was interference with the clearance on the front of the assembly. Flipping it gave more clearance.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,049
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Thanks to all for your responses, very helpful. I won’t worry about it anymore I’ll just run it and forget about it.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 5,016
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Why do you need an adjustable drag link? Is your steering non-original in other areas or your frame bent - or your spindle arms somehow bent?
It's always interesting to bring together parts from varying assemblies - and find the doodlebug was subject to some SEVERE use. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,600
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,599
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I think the problem is the steering gear is adjusted and the play is taken out in the centered position and when using the shortened pitman arm the gear is not in the centered position when driving down the road. You need the adjustable drag link to correct this. Clear as mud?
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 6,855
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Henry did a lot of things just to confuse people working on his cars 100 years later.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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