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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Western Maryland
Posts: 29
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UPDATE:
So, I went ahead and just bought a brand-new distributor and it seems to have done the trick (mostly). I did not properly time the new distributor because the Incredible Hulk installed the cam screw, but I went ahead and threw the new guy in with the first cylinder set and most of the problems have disappeared. The car no longer struggles on hills, it no longer misses, it's a very consistent runner, but one small problem does remain. In order to operate smoothly I am constantly having to work the GAV... making the mix increasingly rich as it speeds up Is timing the culprit? Maybe the GAV needle is out of whack? I just redid the manifold gasket Thursday, so I doubt it's an intake leak Thanks |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 2,068
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Sounds like you are winning.
However it doesn't sound as if you are confident in your ability to set the timing correctly. I would suggest ordering one of the NuRex timing wrenches and use it to set your timing. It may not get the timing set absolutely perfect as in other methods using test lights etc... but it gets timing really, really close. Biggest things with using the wrench and setting timing is to make sure you are at top dead center using the timing pin. If you are having trouble finding the dimple in the timing gear just use a small short phillips screwdriver in place of the timing pin. Also make sure that the arm that extends out from the back of the distributor touches each side of the slot when you move your timing lever fully in either direction. If it doesn't that has to be set right before going forward. Be sure that the timing lever is then fully raised to its highest position and then using the NuRex wrench set the cam on the distributor and lock it in place.
__________________
Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
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#3 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Western Maryland
Posts: 29
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Quote:
I am almost certain they do not time them in the factory, though, and the fact with the new one is the cam screw is just so dang tight I could not loosen it in order to use the wrench. I drove the car about seven miles yesterday, and it's 99% improved. The tick I had is gone, the car has its power back, but I have never had to work the GAV so much driving mine or anyone else's Model A!! Thank you for your time in replying! |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 2,052
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I am plagued by my cam turning when I tighten the screw. My workaround is to set it at 10 deg BTDC and that compensates for the turning and it is spot on at 0 deg then when I finish.
My Stipe dizzy cam must be on my spare dizzy. That cam has parallel serrations on the bottom for grip, maybe I'll swap it over. |
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