Brake adjustments, stick or no stick

[jb-ob]

If you use the 'stick' and adjust your brakes according to the Model A Service Bulletins, your brake bias is for the rear brakes to drag first. This was believed to be ideal for driving on loose, dirt roads.

With the 1932 Service Bulletins and 'solid' roads, it was recommended all four brakes be adjusted the same. Your choice & comfort level.

[2speed]

Originally Posted by jb-ob

If you use the 'stick' and adjust your brakes according to the Model A Service Bulletins, your brake bias is for the rear brakes to drag first. This was believed to be ideal for driving on loose, dirt roads.

With the 1932 Service Bulletins and 'solid' roads, it was recommended all four brakes be adjusted the same. Your choice & comfort level.

Depressing the pedal(with some sort of stick) but just have all the wheels brake at the same rate then?


Without depressing the pedal, I can't see how you can even out the brakes, or bias front or back.


In a hydraulic system just about every wheel gets the same pressure more or less, or at least it will even out better than on the mechanical system, especially with wear, or misadjusted linkages. Without depressing the pedal, and testing the wheels how can you tell?

[jb-ob]

2SP,

Ever since the 1960's all hydraulic brake systems with disc brakes included a proportion valve to even out & regulate brake pedal pressure between the fronts & rear. Discs being superior, in a panic the vehicle could switch ends.
(the theory)

This being a Model A site, lets stay with Model A brakes. Assuming (?) the brake system has been fully restored, the only adjustment is made with the adjusting wedges on each backing plate. Model As had the rear brakes lock while the fronts could spin. (dirt roads) Today most Model A owners prefer the security of having all four brakes working equally ie. adjusted the same.

'Capisci ?'

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by jb-ob

..... Assuming (?) the brake system has been fully restored, the only adjustment is made with the adjusting wedges on each backing plate....'

That is not correct. Especially considering the differences in brake rods from original to reproduction, changes in frame symmetry over time, differences in system components, previous repairs, etc. It is very important (I say MANDATORY) to adjust the brake rods as was explained in the video.

[duke36]

From decades of experience , the stick can be helpful on the later brake system with adjustable rods.It gets one to a good estimate of lockup especially on the front wheels with drums cold. Road testing for pull to one side or the other and feeling the drums for even heat or a temp. gun can help as a final check.

[2speed]

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The capeche part I don't get, and as PS has said, how can you tell if the brakes are biased/evenly adjusted without depressing the pedal, either with a foot or a board. That's what I'm asking, how do the individuals adjust their brakes without a board(or foot)?


For those that don't use a board, I can't see how you just set rods, set actuating arms, set adjusters and think that by magic it will all just fall into place and every wheel will have equal braking action.


Again I will ask, how do these individual adjust their brakes without using the board?

[jb-ob]

Simple, 'other's' who have made their living twiddling wrenches for a living develop the skill set of 'feel' after decades of working around brakes.

The rest of us mere morals have to struggle by using a 'stick' or biblical blessings to achieve safe brakes.

'Compendia'