Distribution Block Setup for Drum/Drum

[Stephenorf]

For a 1959 with Drums all around, do I need the fancy distribution block, or can I just use a simple distribution block?

WHen I purchased the car, it had a later model MC and unknown PB with unknown distribution block. The MC looks like a Disc/Drum unit, and I'm assuming the distribution block was also for Disc/Drum (I'm assuming all the brake parts were scavenged from a single donor vehicle).

I'm retrofitting the brake system with a new aftermarket PB and Drum/Drum MC. My question is can I dump the existing distribution block and use this older style simple distribution block? I have some #10 residual valves that I'll use when I replumb the brake lines.

Here's the distribution block that was on the car:


Here's the 'simple' distribution block I am thinking of using. It came of a 1970 Maverick with drums at all 4 corners.


I have a new "later-style" distribution block that I can use, but I'm thinking I do not need it if the simple block from the Meverick would be a better fit for my car.


Incidentally, here's the old setup that was on the car:



Closeup of old distribution block:

[miker98038]

Just my 2 cents. The old single masters had the brakes balanced in the design. So a “distribution” block is fine. A lot the the more modern ones used “combination” valves. Some had metering for brake balance. They all look alike, but they aren’t.

I use separate residual valves, and when needed an adjustable proportioning valve. Then I know what I’ve got.

So if the one you use is just a block, fine. And check if there’s already residual valves in the new dual master. A lot had them, and typically they can be removed. But you don’t need 2 in the same line.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by miker98038

And check if there’s already residual valves in the new dual master. A lot had them, and typically they can be removed. But you don’t need 2 in the same line.

Thanks. And what is the procedure to determine of the MC has built-in residual valve?

[Ford blue blood]

Look into the outlet ports. Those with the residual will have a "fitting" looking thing in the port. Those without the fitting will look into the revisor.

[miker98038]

Just pick one, they’re pretty typical. Google will bring up videos

“remove residual valve from master cylinder”

[Stephenorf]

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I tested the master cylinder for the presence of integral residual valves. It does not have residual valves in the front or rear. I'll be plumbing the new lines with the 10# external residual valves.

Thanks for all the replies.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by Stephenorf

I tested the master cylinder for the presence of integral residual valves. It does not have residual valves in the front or rear. I'll be plumbing the new lines with the 10# external residual valves.

Thanks for all the replies.

Your original distribution block is an early disc/drum combination valve including proportioning and metering, and the "new" one you pictured is a later version of the same valve, and neither should be used on a drum/drum system.


The Maverick distribution block you show has two issues- old age, and the dash warning light switch. It would be much better to simply use a new brass tee for the fronts, with the residuals first plumbed close the the master cylinder. IF you intend to wire a warning light, buy a NEW block and switch, not the 60+ year old hydraulic brake part.