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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Make sure your gas tank sending unit float does not have a hairline crack as that will give false readings. Remove the gas tank sending unit from tank, place it on a piece of cardboard so it's insulated from all other metal. Then connect the wires from the gauge to the sending unit as you normally would BUT, run a separate ground wire from the flange on the base of the gas tank sending unit to a good ground, like the lower trunk latch.
Then manually move the float thru its arc of motion from empty to full and watch the gauge readings. If the gauge readings are inaccurate, remove the gas tank sending unit top cover with a flat screwdriver blade and turn the little starwheel a teeny weeny bit at a time. Turning it clockwise increases movement of gauge needle towards FULL. CCW moves the gauge needle towards Empty. Move your float arm thru its arc of travel after each starwheel adjustment. You may also find that you have to bend the little metal tabs on the bottom of the unit which limit its arc of travel from E to F. If you can't fix your sending unit I have a used one for sale. If you have a 6V dry cell and a spare fuel gauge you can test your gas tank sending unit as shown below. When I check the voltage to the gas tank sending unit (with engine off and ignition switch ON) it's about 6.2 V. Last edited by 19Fordy; 07-10-2025 at 11:03 AM. |
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#2 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 56
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Quote:
None of that applies to my truck. It has an aftermarket Bob Drake sending unit in it. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,645
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There's your problem...Try to find a correct King-Sealy unit...
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: u-rah-rah-Wisconsin
Posts: 1,269
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Exactly! The King Seely gauges and senders only play well with each other. The repop senders are not compatible with the original gauge regardless of the seller's claim.
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19 and 49 F1 - jes' like Henry II built 1946 Deluxe - as Henry built it |
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