Water pumps

[Bored&Stroked]

I'd pickup a new set from Drake. The later pumps had the improved vanes and ball bearings vs bronze sleeve bearings - so they are much better than the stock earlier pumps. I'd not waste my time and $$$ rebuilding the later pumps.

[TomC750]

Thanks for the replies, I have not checked with Drake yet, but I will. I have to order rings, bearings, valve seals etc. as well. I'd better get busy on a list. Spent today using a 7/16th tap chasing the head bolt threads.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by TomC750

Thanks for the replies, I have not checked with Drake yet, but I will. I have to order rings, bearings, valve seals etc. as well. I'd better get busy on a list. Spent today using a 7/16th tap chasing the head bolt threads.

Arghhh. I wish you would have told us yesterday about your plans for today. Using a regular tap to chase flathead head bolt threads in the block is NOTrecommended. Those threads are cut to a different standard than normal so they will seal better (a bunch of the head bolt holes go right through to the water jacket). It's better to use a genuine Ford head bolt with 3 or 4 grooves filed in it as a chaser.


Not to worry, if you search the forum you will find sealers recommended that usually solve the leak problem resulting from this. If you still have leaks, there are several block sealing products that also work well.

[TomC750]

Originally Posted by tubman

Arghhh. I wish you would have told us yesterday about your plans for today. Using a regular tap to chase flathead head bolt threads in the block is NOTrecommended. Those threads are cut to a different standard than normal so they will seal better (a bunch of the head bolt holes go right through to the water jacket). It's better to use a genuine Ford head bolt with 3 or 4 grooves filed in it as a chaser.


Not to worry, if you search the forum you will find sealers recommended that usually solve the leak problem resulting from this. If you still have leaks, there are several block sealing products that also work well.

Well, hard for me to believe I did any harm. The tap went in smooth and easy until it got past the reach of the bolt, then there was rust. I have forgotten my "class of threads", but I would expect the bolts to be in that class that allows for a close fit. We rebuilt a lot of flatheads back in the day, I never recall having a leak problem.

[TomC750]

Originally Posted by TomC750

Well, hard for me to believe I did any harm. The tap went in smooth and easy until it got past the reach of the bolt, then there was rust. I have forgotten my "class of threads", but I would expect the bolts to be in that class that allows for a close fit. We rebuilt a lot of flatheads back in the day, I never recall having a leak problem.

Tubman, threads are cut to a different standard than normal? What standard? They certainly are not AN or NS bolts as used in aircraft or they would be marked as such. I have been reviewing my Engineering Handbook and measuring major diameter, pitch diameter, etc. on the bolt threads as well as the block. This suggests that the threads in the block are class 2 or 3, and the easier to measure bolts are 3. In any case mine are well within spec. Interestingly, a new grade 8 nut is a looser fit on a headbolt than the headbolt in the block.

In another publication, "Best Shop Practices" it states "that when rebuilding assemblies it is important to use an appropriate tap to clean any debris out of the threads. Any other method may imbed particles in the threads and influence torque values." Case closed.

[Shoebox]

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I'd pickup a new set from Drake. The later pumps had the improved vanes and ball bearings vs bronze sleeve bearings - so they are much better than the stock earlier pumps. I'd not waste my time and $$$ rebuilding the later pumps.

I went to buy a pair,.....SOLD OUT

[TomC750]

Originally Posted by Shoebox

I went to buy a pair,.....SOLD OUT

Thanks, I will shop around.