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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 363
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How much lift should the fuel pump pushrod have? Have a Charley NY pump that was working but won't pull enough to fill the bowl now. Got a new one from 3rd Gen. and new pushrod it won't pull either. So, looking for the problem.
Also found that the threads that hold the pump to the stand are just about gone. This is a Canadian car with aluminum manifold and fuel pump stand. Does anyone make a new stand or are new ones available? This is a 48 car with original engine. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1,811
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The cam lift for the fuel pump is about 0.2"
Check the flexible rubber hose that connects the fuel line on the firewall to the fuel pump. If old and cracked, replace it. Some are not resistant to alcohol in fuel and will swell internally nearly shut. That could be the reason for low pump output. With the pump output line disconnected from the carburetor, crank the engine (IGNITION OFF!). I should spurt at least a teaspoon with each stroke. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,138
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It could be a lot of things. If your fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl, carefully check the seal on it. I have found that this area is prone to air leaks that diminish the fuel supply. If unsure, it's probably best to replace the gasket. Surprisingly, I have had better luck with the old cork gaskets than the new neoprene ones. I once had to renew the sealing surface on the glass bowl itself using my surface plate (a large chunk of perfectly flat granite) and Wet-r-Dry sandpaper.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,028
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Just had to replace the flex hose to solve my "no suck" problem. (tried the bowl gasket first) Hose looked perfectly good, but I could not pull a vacuum in the hose by mouth. No visible cracks in hose. I assume the hose shrank with age and one or both crimped-on fittings began leaking air at the crimp.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,028
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"IF not they will pull vacuum and reduce pressure."
IF not they will pull air, eliminating the vacuum in the line necessary to suck gasoline. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 363
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I did replace the flex line to the pump some time ago. I blew back through the line just now with the air hose clear to the tank, (old tank replaced 2015) doesn't seem to be any restrictions. And I do use non ethanol fuel, at quite a premium by the way. This is the new pump from 3rd Gen. so the bowl gasket should be good, brand new and the bowl is tight. I poured a small amount of gas down the carb to get it going. Soon as that burns up it quits and no fuel in the bowl.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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I know its prolly a stupid question BUT you are getting the rod into the cup on the arm of the pump correct??? IF you are and the rod is in the up position on the stroke you should have a little bit of a struggle to get the bolts into the stand as the arm has to depress for them to line up. I haven't worked much at all on a 59AB so not sure how much the fuel pump rod will move IF the fuel pump guide tube is missing BUT IF you are missing that tube could that be your issue??? I have pulled several stand from earlier flat head where this tube & the baffle have gone walk about.
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,644
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Quote:
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,492
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I've noticed in my pile of parts that a lot of the fuel pump risers have warped bases where they mount to the intake. They are really warped bad, that had to cut down on the amount of fuel being pumped.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Upstate N.Y.
Posts: 578
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Take the glass bowl off.
Put a piece of 80 Grit paper on a flat surface, and gently sand the surface that mates to gasket. |
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 363
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 363
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I had never had the riser off before. On removal I see where this riser is warped a bit. Also, where the fuel pump bolts to the riser the threads are almost gone. I see it's pot metal and not aluminum like I originally thought. I'm going to look for a replacement.
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Quote:
And thanks for keeping us abreast of your issue, your experience helps refine our help and responses for the future hobbyist in need |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 204
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Can someone post a picture of the end of the rod that should be attached to the fuel pump? I am getting close to that point and don't want to make the same mistake.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Here you go, the umbrella end goes to the block
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 204
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I have and 2 8BAs and neither had umbrella on the rods
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#20 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Nordland, WA
Posts: 82
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Great that you found the problem. I straighten the fuel pump stand by putting in a press. I put small thin washers under the flange and press down till tight. this will put a slight negative curve on the flange. I then heat the area with a commercial heat gun and let cool. You could use a small propane torch also. Be careful to not overheat.
Also I would recommend new fuel hose made by: Robert Shewman 610-933-6637, they are worth the money. |
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