I give up

[jeepguy1948]

The “Old Guy @ 94 years old” say’s “most carburetor problems are distributor in nature”. I can’t say what might or might not be wrong with your distributor but I would think that if it behaved the same way with 2 carbs that’s not the problem. Most all intake vacuum leaks on a Model A motor are so small that propane does not work as a diagnostic tool. Since you “gave up” perhaps you can find another Model A owner that can test your parts on his motor (a good reason to belong to a club).Personally, I would like to own at least 2 Model A’s myself so I can test my own parts but alas, I have neither the space or the cash to do so.

[eagle]

One thing to remember. When using the starting fluid or ether to check for a manifold leak, the air intake into the carb is close so it will sometimes suck the fumes from the starting fluid and give you a false idea. So, go to a parts store and buy some heater hose the same approximate size as the carb throat and a foot or two long. Put that on the carb first so the air intake is isolated. Then do your spray test. Yes, the hose on the carb will may negatively affect the way the engine runs, but you are looking for change when you spray the starting fuid. If you do this and detect ANY change, you have a leak. Without the hose on the carb you sometimes get a change in RPM even though you don't have a leak.

[Tom F OHIO]

I read this on this site before. Take your shop vac and put it on exhaust and blow air up the end of the exhaust pipe. Have someone hold a rag around it. Then take some dawn in a spray bottle mix up with water and spray exhaust manifold where it attaches to the block and the intake manifold. It will definitely tell you for sure if you have any leaks. We found some on my brother-in-laws car in no time. Put new gasket on and rings and had no more leaks. Hope this helps you some.

[Woodie1]

These sound like good things to try. I won't be able to try them for another week or so. I hope to get back at it then.