Don't get anal about bolts and torque!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I just read a post about snapping the head off a pan bolt while torquing it to 20 foot pounds. And, I've read several posts about breaking manifolds while using a torque wrench.

First of all 20 ft. lbs. is too much for a pan bolt, and secondly common sense does a much better job than a torque wrench. Let your neighbor borrow your torque wrench, then never ask for it back again!

If you are using a cork or rubber gasket, just tighten the bolts until you just start to see the gasket squeeze out. If it's a cork gasket, it will take a set in a few days (whether or not the engine is run) and you should resnug the bolts. Just remember to snug it using common sense, NOT a torque wrench.

If it's a paper gasket, just tighten it until you feel it's right, then STOP! You can recheck for looseness during regular maintenance, but it will probably be OK.

Speaking of REGULAR MAINTENANCE, that deserves a new thread.

[skip]

I read once in my shop manual that 7 INCH-POUNDS [not foot-pounds] was about right for the cork pan gaskets on my red/red w/wht. top 1963 Dodge Dart GT convertible, 225 slant six, push button automatic on the dash gear selector I use to drive around in. The day I sold it, it would still burn rubber!

I like the idea of letting her sit and soak a bit before running.





When cars were art, and not aerodynamic eggs.

skip.

[marc hildebrant]

Tom,

How would you handle screwing down head bolts ?

Marc

[Gary WA]

Torque wrench as per specs,different situation with head bolts.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by marc hildebrant

Tom,

How would you handle screwing down head bolts ?

Marc

That's about the only place I'd use a torque wrench on a Model A, but when I was 12 I removed the head from my 1950 Studebaker field car (no body) so I could paint it silver. I reinstalled the head with the old head gasket and no torque wrench and never had a problem. I believe the compression ratio on that engine was 6.5:1.

[Patrick L.]

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I agree with Tom, there are times for torque wrenches and there are times to leave them in the tool box.. That said, there are fellas that never seem to develop that critical ' calibrated elbow or wrist' and some that just don't know the proper use of the torque wrench.. Torques wrenches , like anything else mechanical, can be subject to failure and then the 'elbow' has to know when to tell you that enough is enough..

[Marco Tahtaras]

I agree entirely. The cylinder head is the only thing that I ever torque unless I'm doing some type of experimenting.

For those with a little less experience I'll repeat what I posted years ago. If you don't have a set of standard "combination wrenches", go down to Sears and buy a set. Even if you rarely use them, GET THEM! Now look at the length of each size wrench. They ARE NOT all different lengths just to fit nicely in your tool box! They are sized to limit your leverage so you don't over tighten the applicable fastener. These wrenches will show you the maximum distance from a given size nut or bolt you should be holding a standard ratchet until you develop some experience or feel.

Even when I was a kid it drove me crazy to see someone too cheap to own a socket set smaller than 1/2" drive. The smallest typical socket in these sets is a 1/2" which is the same as out pan and side cover bolts. To see someone pull out a big 8" long, bulky ratchet to tighten these tiny bolts seemed so absurd. It's a recipe for disaster for anyone lacking experience. I go the opposite route finding it easiest to use the SMALLEST ratchet available for a given bolt size unless there is a reason to do otherwise.

[ford1]

Tom, your right about not using the torque wrench and applying common sense when tightening small bolts, i use a 1/4" drive rachet and i grab it at the rachet part, not the handle, then i tighten the bolts, its all most imposible to break one of them using this method when tightening pan bolts, if you do break one you really had to work at it

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by ford1

Tom, your right about not using the torque wrench and applying common sense when tightening small bolts, i use a 1/4" drive rachet and i grab it at the rachet part, not the handle, then i tighten the bolts, its all most imposible to break one of them using this method when tightening pan bolts, if you do break one you really had to work at it

I do it the same way, and if the engine is in the car a 1/4" ratchet is about the only thing that fits on the front pan bolts.

[Mitch//pa]

i had already posted this on the other thread before i read this one. i totally agree with you tom , people get anal about torquing things



""the only thing i use a torque wrench on is the head nuts. the rest i go by feel, or a click in the wrist or 2 burbs of the gun.""

[James Rogers]

Generally, I use the torque wrench on the mains rods and the head bolts. Even on the rods and mains, I don't get too anal about the torque if I have to tighten or loosen a nut some to get a cotter in.

[Job]

Geez Guys, Why didn't you tell me to throw away my torque wrench when I asked for help with breaking my water inlet (x2!)?!?!? Huh? Huh?
This thread is why I LOVE ford barn. I'm always learning new important info.
Thanks to all of you, Job

[allen]

turning wrenches for many many years at a motorcycle shop if you read the Manuel there is a toque for everything including the spark plugs, my theory on this is this is there way of saying hey tighten it up dummy, since they cant say this they give torque values, then you look like a idiot with the wrench tom your right on

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by allen

turning wrenches for many many years at a motorcycle shop if you read the Manual there is a torque for everything including the spark plugs, my theory on this is this is there way of saying hey tighten it up dummy, since they cant say this they give torque values, then you look like a idiot with the wrench tom your right on

Here is where the fun part really comes in. There are no such specs for the Model A except those that were estimated in modern times without all the pertinent facts! It's more like "your guess is as good as mine, but use mine anyway!!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by forever4

Tom, I was just telling your helicopter mechanic the very same thing the other day!

That's why I switched to hot air balloons.

[Steve Ciccalone]

ONE FLAT BEFORE YOU RING IT OFF is the correct torque!~

[Keith True]

An old Detroit engine mechanic I knew said a lot of guys go by the,tighten it until it breaks and back it off half a turn rule.There were some fuel crossover tubes in the old engines,if you tightened them to Detroit's specs in a week or so you would fill your crankcase with fuel.He just knew how much to tighten them with a 1/4 inch ratchet.New ones were OK to tighten by spec,but once used you had to use your experience.

[Stillrunners]

okay...agree...this cotter key thing is going to give me fits....

[Mike V. Florida]

I feel the use of a torque wrench is warranted when you NEED to match the tightness of all the nuts, such as head, main bearings, and rods.

[Smitty]

I agree with Marco, I use 3/8" drive most of the time, rarely 1/2" drive except when removing head bolts, Mains, rods. etc.
You can feel when it is tight enough.