276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[flatford8]

You’re doing a great job on the engine ‘Ol Boy....What kind of a sandwich did you have????....... Mark

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by flatford8

You’re doing a great job on the engine ‘Ol Boy....What kind of a sandwich did you have????....... Mark

Half a ham sandwich, and an english muffin with peanut butter. Cup of hot black coffee to wash it down..... Whadya think of using my engine decks as a surface plate to check to see if my heads are flat? Or is it just another 'telescopic driveshaft' in the making?

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Half a ham sandwich, and an english muffin with peanut butter. Cup of hot black coffee to wash it down..... Whadya think of using my engine decks as a surface plate to check to see if my heads are flat? Or is it just another 'telescopic driveshaft' in the making?

All you really need is a good accurate steel ruler . . . you lay it on edge and then see first of all if there is "light" coming through anywhere on the head. You can use a feeler gauge underneath it to see the level of warpage.

Do this in a few directions and you'll soon know if there is any appreciable warpage. You'll probably find that your heads are fine.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Dale, I did it the hard way as usual. I did come up with some interesting findings. I slid 3 utility knife blades outa my blade dispenser (think pez) and measured them. All were .023". Two were placed under the ends of the heads at mid height. I stretched an old screen door spring and cut it into 4 springs at 1/2" long on the bandsaw. The pass side was as expected, entirely flat, and yes I realize that just because it didn't rock didn't mean it wasn't humped or swayback. But the 3rd knife blade as a feeler was all the proof I needed as I went around the head's perimeter. The other side showed the twist that I expected. With both end spacer blades in place and starting at the front I adjusted the top and bottom bolts for a nice fit of the feeler blade.Now from the back I could see it was more open at the top and just above the deck at the bottom. I installed the bolts and springs and was able to twist it to flat with just spring pressure, and while the springs were doing their trick I used my feeler blade to ascertain that the perimeter showed no hump of swayback. Lastly, with these rear bolts loosened I was easily able to remove the twist with palm pressure. I agree, I think I'm fine here and will plow onward as time allows.