32-34 Tie Rod End Adjustment

[Flathead Fever]

I went out to the garage, and you are correct, no way in hell that is fitting between the tie rod end and the brake backing plate. This was on my dads' 32 roadster with hydraulic brakes, a Mordrop dropped axle, later spindles... The truth is I have only done a couple Early Ford tie rods and I rebuilt the ends while they were off the car. The tool does fit the drag link, maybe that's why they call it a drag link socket and not a tie rod link socket. I learned something today. That "drag-link" socket is an old Snap-on. I think what I will do from now on is get a junk tie rod and cut the right and lefthand threaded ends off. The clamp them in a vise, thread the ends on and adjust the ball so they have a little resistance. Then install them on the tie rod with never seize so I can easily turn the rod to set the toe-in and then clamp the ends down. That way nothing gets scratched.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

I went out to the garage, and you are correct, no way in hell that is fitting between the tie rod end and the brake backing plate. This was on my dads' 32 roadster with hydraulic brakes, a Mordrop dropped axle, later spindles... The truth is I have only done a couple Early Ford tie rods and I rebuilt the ends while they were off the car. The tool does fit the drag link, maybe that's why they call it a drag link socket and not a tie rod link socket. I learned something today. That "drag-link" socket is an old Snap-on. I think what I will do from now on is get a junk tie rod and cut the right and lefthand threaded ends off. The clamp them in a vise, thread the ends on and adjust the ball so they have a little resistance. Then install them on the tie rod with never seize so I can easily turn the rod to set the toe-in and then clamp the ends down. That way nothing gets scratched.

On my '34, I resorted to using a nickel grasped in the jaws of a Vice-Grip pliers as my "special tool"...

[RB]

I'm cheap, a flat washer works for me..