Noise in Drive Train

[Marshall V. Daut]

You won't need a spring spreader unless you plan on disassembling the rear end and/or rear spring for a complete restoration of the leaves. To replace a bad U-joint or to tighten the pinion gear nuts, you need only to remove the rear end with the rear spring left in place. It is much more work and potentially more dangerous to disconnect the rear spring from the shackles in order to drop the rear end. Just put a large C-clamp over the center of the rear spring once the rear end has been lowered. That will protect against a broken or weak center bolt allowing the spring leaves to separate all of a sudden. I know some guys prefer to disconnect the rear spring from the rear end first, but I have found it easier and faster to drop the entire assembly. The one time I removed the rear end with the spring left inside the rear crossmember, I had a heck of a time getting the spring hangers back in place while struggling beneath the rear fenders = not much room. Whatever way you choose to drop the rear end, just be aware that it's a heavy and awkward animal.
To check and/or replace the U-joint, the rear end has to come out and be rolled back a foot or two so that the U-joint can be removed. If the U-joint is good, but the pinion gear nuts have loosened up, you only need to remove the torque tube once the rear end has been lowered and pulled out from beneath the car. Use a strong floor jack to lower the rear end. Don't use one of those dinky Harbor Freight Chinese aluminum floor jacks. Use a large, sturdy floor jack with a wide circular platform for the center of the rear end to sit on while it is being lowered and raised back into position.
Marshall