solenoid with start button

[Merc Cruzer]

On the upside, it gave me a chance to clean up the original solenoid. That is always a good thing.

[v8fordman]

I can guarantee you that the diagram that V8COOPMAN provided in post 51 is exactly the way original solenoids are wired. What is depicted in blue is what I described as the plunger and brass disc and when the stater button on the dash grounds, the electrical circuit is completed and the magnetic field is created causing the disc to engage both of the large terminals. Also, no one has pictured an original ‘37 yet. They were 1/4” taller than those posted and had a brass cap which screwed onto the bottom and covered the push button (which is the bottom of the plunger).

[cas3]

Wow ! so they were made to be serviceable ?

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

I can guarantee you that the diagram that V8COOPMAN provided in post 51 is exactly the way original solenoids are wired. What is depicted in blue is what I described as the plunger and brass disc and when the stater button on the dash grounds, the electrical circuit is completed and the magnetic field is created causing the disc to engage both of the large terminals. Also, no one has pictured an original ‘37 yet. They were 1/4” taller than those posted and had a brass cap which screwed onto the bottom and covered the push button (which is the bottom of the plunger).

Could you post a picture of a original 37' solenoid, for reference please?

I see a new post, involving the solenoid for a 30's Coupe, has started:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309877

Thank you,

[Tinker]

Glad you got it figured out and it is a great thing there are re-builders.


It's a fairly simple through point with an opposite pole coil.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRlRinL-N-8

[v8fordman]

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Here are pictures of almost every solenoid you could have encountered back in the day.
Top row: (1) original ‘37 style solenoids with the screw on brass cap. (2) AutoLite replacements that appear to be exactly as original Ford. (3) Original showing RBM on the mounting bracket.
Bottom row: (1) different versions of the second generation of solenoids. Notice the bottom left has a screw on cap. (2) picture of the third generation. (3) comparison picture showing the difference in the size of the housings. 2 3/4” versus 2 1/2”

Note: My personal belief is that the first solenoids were the tall ones with a screw on cap. Next came the shorter version with a screw on cap. These were followed by the shorter ones with a button you could engage the starter but no cap. Finally, the last version had a depression in the bottom cap but you could not manually engage the starter. All versions are seen in these pictures.

[v8fordman]

Here are a few more pictures of solenoids and “stuff “. First picture shows all the parts of a solenoid. Second picture is of parts including a box of the brass caps. The last picture shows a tractor and a 1942 solenoid. They both look exactly the same to me except the part number stamped on top.

[Merc Cruzer]

Nice collection. Thanks for posting.

[48fordnut]

This has been a real education.

Thanks,

jim

[CRAIGTERRY]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Well, this is quite timely for me. About 5 minutes ago I had made up the battery cables and put a 12v battery (and negative grounded)in my newly fabricated battery tray. I had the solenoid with a button (looks like a repro style of original) mounted to the firewall. The small terminal on the solenoid is labled 'battery'. I jumpered a hot wire from the battery positive terminal to that small post and nothing. I then jumped a wire from the grounded chassis and off she spun. I know very little of electrons and such so it is all trial and error with me. I guess I will keep it this way.

Trying to wire a remote switch on my 36 with a floor starter button. Sounds like I need to alligator clip the negative wire to the battery side of solenoid and attach the other clip to the positive ground (frame). Is this right?

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by CRAIGTERRY

Trying to wire a remote switch on my 36 with a floor starter button. Sounds like I need to alligator clip the negative wire to the battery side of solenoid and attach the other clip to the positive ground (frame). Is this right?

If you have a floor starter switch you probably don't have a solenoid.
The 36 switch is a manual switch you have to push to energize. Pretty hard to hook a remote to it.
Bill

[Jack E/NJ]

>>>Sounds like I need to alligator clip the negative wire to the battery side of solenoid and attach the other clip to the positive ground (frame). Is this right?>>>


NO! The other clip would create a dead short from the battery negative to the battery positive via the frame.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by cas3

Thats odd, if its grounded, it would trigger the starter instead of you grounding it with the button

Yep, the entire system is isolated from the mounting points and case. Two through poles/posts (the same + or -) with one momentary coil effected by a different small post/pole (opposite of the large through poles) current to connect them. A Very simple system.