51 F2 Engine Options

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by FirstGenF2

.... it also might be of intrest that the last time it was registered it was marked for GVW of 12,000lbs if i remember right f2s were factory rated for either 4800 or 5200.

In Canada, the Ford trucks were F-47 (F-1) and F-68 (F-2), Those corresponded to the GVWs -- 4700 for the F-1 and 6800 for the F-2.

[skidmarks]

Originally Posted by FirstGenF2

It has bendex brakes, in good working order just need new shoes.

Thats a big plus, i have a early 51 F2 and it has the early non servo brakes. I got a set of bendix out of a junkyard to swap.

I changed the wheel cylinder to the later 2 piston wheel cylinder. All that was involved was to drill a hole for another bolt .

For the rear brakes im going with a Dana 60 which has the bendix style brakes

Shoes , if you have trouble finding them call wilson welding or MT. The repop "lincoln brakes" are really copies of the F2. When you run buick drums with them you can use the wider F2 shoe. If you use 40 ford drums you need the lincoln 1-3/4 shoe.

[Sedona48F1]

Originally Posted by JSeery

FirstGen, have you driven one of the early 4-speed transmissions? Miles on an engine doesn't tell you a whole lot, it depends on the type of miles and how well it was maintained.

Not to derail the thread topic, but this is the exact topic I’m having issues with. I have the 4-speed transmission and am a new owner to a 4-speed ‘48.

Can’t downshift it at all until I get almost to a roll just above a stop (but now I can upshift like butter to all gears once I get “warmed up”).

The shop I brought it to for some work has a guy that used to drive a ‘48 hauling hay back in the day when he was a kid. He said I’d probably never be able to downshift it, but maybe in lots of time with a ton of experience with it. They have access to a Ford 3-speed that they said they could direct bolt in and would be able to downshift with it. From the info in this thread the 3 (is that the T98?) and the 4 (T58) are different animals, one with syncos and one not? What am I missing?

It’s very challenging to the point where I don’t even feel like the pilot bearing or whatever, throw out bearing, is disengaging the clutch fully. I have to hold it in forever before I can shift. Is that just how the 4-speed works?

I want to be able to downshift in traffic for safety reasons, but want to keep it original (or as near as possible with that 3-speed swap). According to them it’s a ton of labor to get in there for a swap due to the riveted cross member. Dilemma...

Input appreciated please and thanks
(Sorry to derail, may have to start a new thread...?)

[Scotty's 52 F3]

You have to double clutch the non syncro trans. I swapped a T98 synchronized 4 speed from an F6 into my F3. Close to a bolt in swap but, not quite. I posted my swap on the FTE forum. Lots of good info there as well as here on the barn.

[Sedona48F1]

Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3

You have to double clutch the non syncro trans. I swapped a T98 synchronized 4 speed from an F6 into my F3. Close to a bolt in swap but, not quite. I posted my swap on the FTE forum. Lots of good info there as well as here on the barn.

Thanks. Definitely double clutching. What’s FTE forum? Thanks

[FortyNiner]

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FTE is the Ford Truck Enthusiasts site, ford-trucks.com.

The three speed tranny from the F1 era is physically smaller, has a different cradle, and needs a longer drive shaft. It isn't bolt-in by any measure.

[amodel25]

Keep the six. I don't have a truck but I do have a six in my '51 car. I've driven it over 45,000 miles since an overhaul without issue. I have a copy of a Mechanix Illustrated article where Tom McCahill compared two 1950 cars, one with a six and one with a V8. The six would consistently outrun the V8 up to the last 200 feet of a quarter mile where the V8 would pass.


Last year I ran a '49 coupe with a 254 truck version of the 226 (was in F6 and school buses). I was at 114 mph when the back freeze plug blew out and melted a hole in my aluminum head. Getting the head fixed and going back this year shooting for the 139+ record.


The 6 and the V8 use different starter plates and bellhousings.

[Sedona48F1]

Originally Posted by FortyNiner

FTE is the Ford Truck Enthusiasts site, ford-trucks.com.

The three speed tranny from the F1 era is physically smaller, has a different cradle, and needs a longer drive shaft. It isn't bolt-in by any measure.

Thanks about FTE

They mentioned new driveshaft but maybe I missed the part about the new crossmember

[Bob C]

They may be talking about the heavy duty 3 speed not the F1 transmission.


Bob

[Ross F-1]

F-2's and -3's used a "deep" trans crossmember compared to F-1's, and mounted further back in the frame. There's plenty of room to put in a light-duty trans, just nothing there to support it.

[Sedona48F1]

Originally Posted by Bob C

They may be talking about the heavy duty 3 speed not the F1 transmission.


Bob

Could be. I do think I remember direct bolt in

I would love to keep it original but also like the idea of being able to downshift to 2 without coming to a slow roll. This will be especially desirable out on the backroad highways in the Arizona mountains and Mogollon/rim country roads

They mentioned the 3-speed is the best option for actually driving this beast and putting the miles on it that I plan to do

[Sedona48F1]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

F-2's and -3's used a "deep" trans crossmember compared to F-1's, and mounted further back in the frame. There's plenty of room to put in a light-duty trans, just nothing there to support it.

Good info. Thanks

[tubman]

I had a '48 Seagrave with a non-synchro 4 speed. It took a while, but I got familiar with the vehicle (it had a tachometer, which really helped), and I was able to change gears (up or down) any time I wanted to with only an occasional slight clash.

[Sedona48F1]

Originally Posted by tubman

I had a '48 Seagrave with a non-synchro 4 speed. It took a while, but I got familiar with the vehicle (it had a tachometer, which really helped), and I was able to change gears (up or down) any time I wanted to with only an occasional slight clash.

Thanks for the hope. Maybe I will get a tach to try what helped you out with the downshift. To do that I will have to get the gas pedal to work smoothly because currently it is pretty sticky and difficult to work with any precision

[RKS.PA]

FirstGen, if I read all your post above, it sounds like your staying with the 6 and after rebuilding it, turning to the differential for better road gearing. Not sure if you've fixed your carb. leaking problem, but helicoils are your friend and pretty easy to install.


For what ever reason, I seem to be fixated with dual exhaust...both on 8's and 6's. Even though they don't necessarily improve performance, it's the look and sound that gets to me!!


When your truck is all back together the way you want it, you might consider "splitting" the manifold or fabricating headers as noted in an early post above. Two chrome stacks up the back of the cab would be right up my alley. We all have our somewhat crazy notions and this one is mine!!