Electrical drain, battery won't maintain charge?

[36tudordeluxe]

My two fuse blocks are made of plastic and our mounted to the vinyl covered kick panels, the mounting screws on the backside don't make contact with the metal bracing/reinforcement in the opening for the kick panel.
The power supply for my main circuit breaker comes from the post on the starter. On the other side of the breaker a line goes to the panel that is hot all the time. Another line runs from the power source post for the breaker to the hot side of the ignition switch. Then a wire from the switchable side of the ignition runs to the accessory fuse panel. Also, from the
switchable side of the ignition the wire to the alternator is located. Thought this might be useful info..

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

The power supply for my main circuit breaker comes from the post on the starter.

You sure about that? That post would only be "hot" while starter is cranking engine. DD

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

You sure about that? That post would only be "hot" while starter is cranking engine. DD

I should have stated that I have an aftermarket starter that has a built in solenoid, the post is always hot.
Also, I misstated the power source for the hot panel, it actually gets its power from the switchable/demand side of the circuit breaker.

[Old Henry]

Don't know if this would apply to your modified '36 but on my '47 I always get a little spark hooking up the battery because the electric self winding clock has unwound and the contacts are closed to energize the electro-magnet to rewind it. When I hook up the battery a split second connection that immediately opens shows as a spark. Could be as simple as that.

As others have said, you really need to check the magnitude of what you are thinking is a continuous drain with a meter. May be just something like the clock or a condenser charging that makes the spark but is not really draining. Even just a test light between the disconnected battery clamp and the post would show that without a meter. If it just flashes on then off - no drain. If it stays on bright - it's a definite drain.

If you're not sure about your battery, wouldn't hurt to have it checked. They do wear out.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Don't know if this would apply to your modified '36 but on my '47 I always get a little spark hooking up the battery because the electric self winding clock has unwound and the contacts are closed to energize the electro-magnet to rewind it. When I hook up the battery a split second connection that immediately opens shows as a spark. Could be as simple as that.

As others have said, you really need to check the magnitude of what you are thinking is a continuous drain with a meter. May be just something like the clock or a condenser charging that makes the spark but is not really draining. Even just a test light between the disconnected battery clamp and the post would show that without a meter. If it just flashes on then off - no drain. If it stays on bright - it's a definite drain.

If you're not sure about your battery, wouldn't hurt to have it checked. They do wear out.

Professor, BTW enjoy your travel logs, hooking up test light from pos.post to pos. cable produces no light at all. I do have a quartz conversion clock, but this condition existed before I got the clock; I have an electronic ignition, no condenser.