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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wonderful Whitby Ontario
Posts: 131
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Well now that my bottom and interior are done I'm ready to tackle the body outside. I'm getting some different answers from others on what to paint first the belt lines or main body. Anyone from the barn want to chime in with advice.
I'm leaning on belt line and then body. Michael
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Feeding Hills, MA
Posts: 599
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I would do the body than the belt line.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 5,346
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It appears you have a lot of orange peel in the paint, from what I can see. I think your paint might be too thick or spray gun isn't adjusted right. The paint should atomized better to provide a flatter surface. I suppose the orange peel might not be as much as it appears. You can colorsand out orange peel, but with a lot of orange peel, it would really be a time consuming job.
Rusty Nelson |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca.
Posts: 3,636
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Which ever one is lighter,...do first.
I like your "rotisserie",...looks good. I'm with Rusty on the paint and orange peal,..you've done a lot of metal work to your car(from looking on the inside),..don't wear yourself out color sanding,..adjust your gun.. Looking good so far... |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wonderful Whitby Ontario
Posts: 131
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http://www.devilbiss.com/portals/2/r...ure%202-13.pdf
Yes your both correct, new Binks gun and still learning. Thought I would experiment on the underside and inside where it will be mostly covered. The tank inside fared much better once I increased the pressure. I'm shooting BASF Urathane. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca.
Posts: 3,636
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that and using the cheap engine stands.. Tell us about your quarter panel repair,..repop panels?...what about the wheel wells? |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: oroville calif
Posts: 892
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paint the belt line first, a lot less to mask when you get to the body, don't bother to mask the body when painting the belt line, let the paint get on the body just a little below the belt line, when paint is dry, mask off belt line, sand off over spray with 400 grit wet or dry sand paper, doing paint that way you will not get a double thick paint line you have to sand smooth
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wonderful Whitby Ontario
Posts: 131
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http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ipped+roadster
As requested. The panels were welded in years ago befor my wife put a stop to me working on it until the girls grew up. The panels were from Snyders and are of excellent quality. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wonderful Whitby Ontario
Posts: 131
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Thanks West Coast. Do you get much of a paint line with masking it or can I buff this out.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: oroville calif
Posts: 892
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you will always get a paint line unless you can break the colors in a crease, then it doesnt show but a little, ask your paint dealer if he has some fine line masking tape, also I have found that black electrical tape is perfect for masking curves, it stretches nicely and wont let paint bleed under the tape like most masking tapes
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 5,346
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There is a 3M product called Fine Line tape. Is is a narrow tape that, while leaving a slight line between different colors, provides a much cleaner line than just regular masking tape i.e. no wicking under the tape. I have used it a lot. Below is a link to some Fine Line tape on eBay. There are several widths available. I use 2 or 3 widths depending on the curvature of the area being masked off. Once you have the Fine Line installed, then you use regular masking tape and/or masking paper to finish the masking. Hope this helps.
Rusty Nelson |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: santa rosa ca
Posts: 260
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I would advise against electrical tape. The adhesive is not designed for paint solvents. Maybe to spray can some small frame or engine parts or something and even that is iffy, but never for final painting with professional quality material.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,219
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Always spray the smallest area first. This way it takes less masking. Use fine line tape for your edges. If you spray the area first without masking you'll have a better chance of not missing a edge.
John Poole |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 2,900
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Another painting trick I have successfully used near reveals and mouldings is after masking the area with Fine Line tape immediately next to the area to be painted - followed by masking tape and paper- is to take about one foot at a time of 1" masking tape and roll it upon itself lengthwise like snake. You want a short piece at a time because a longer piece will end up sticking to itself while you are folding it. Now place that sticky-side-out tape on top of the masked off area as close to the portion to be painted as possible without touching it. Now when you spray, this sticky tape will create a "bounce back" effect so that you do not build up a lot of paint between the area painted and the masked-off panel. The excess sprayed paint instead sticks to the tape and also "bounces" back onto the area being painted. I don't know why this simple trick works, but it does. You'll experience less frustrating pull-offs of paint when you remove the masking tape.
I know that I probably didn't explain this very clearly because it kind of defies stringing the proper words together to create a visual image. It's one of those things in life that takes less time to actually do than to explain. ![]() Marshall |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: santa rosa ca
Posts: 260
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When we used to have our body shop we did that sort of thing and we called it "back taping" it worked real good when we painted into a door jamb. It wouldn't leave a sharp tape edge and if you did it correct and taped on a 90 degree transition it was almost undetectable.
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I agree with Marc. I stuck some black electrical tape to the lid of a plastic container, thinking I'd use it again on another project. When I removed the tape, I found the adhesive has eaten into the plastic.
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#17 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rockford, Michigan
Posts: 14
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Here is the sequence of painting my coupe:
First - Sprayed the lower body color Second - Masked the lower body and then sprayed the upper body and belt color Third - Masked everything again and then sprayed the yellow pin stripe 1-DSC_0772.jpg 1-DSC_0778.jpg 1-DSC_0797.jpg 1-DSC_0809.jpg |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 12,248
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Just curious, why would you spray the pinstripe? Why not just do it correctly and use a brush to apply it? Can you actually apply it with a spray gun where it is the correct width?
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#19 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rockford, Michigan
Posts: 14
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I sprayed the pin stripe because of my lack of experience brushing a pinstripe by hand - none! Also there was no one local who could do it.
I used a 3M fine line masking tape made just for stripes, it had two strips of tape correctly spaced on a roll which made it very easy to apply the two strips together and then spray in between and get a good looking stripe when sprayed. The fine line tape was flexible enough to get good looking curves on the pin stripe. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 5,346
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I did my cars like elklake did, except I didn't paint the pinstripe, only the secondary color after the primary color was applied. Yes, it requires more masking, but worked out well on my 29 coupe and 29 phaeton.
Rusty Nelson |
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